SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

They always feel the strongest right before they rapidly disassemble. LOL

disassemble.jpg
 
first in a long time i had some time with the SSR
my settings:
LLT-43
HLT-43

LLD-50
HLD-50

LLR-25
LLR-25

It seems to spool alright but the smoke is heavier down low, it clears real fast though. The rattle is what is killing me...i have a hard time laying into it rattling so much. With or without pre injection.
Any suggestions?

LLT and LLD are probably high. Less LLTiming on my truck makes it clean up faster. Less LLD also helps.

I do not have any rattle. I leave the pilot injection stock. If I turn it off, I get lots of rattle. There are some trucks that don't seem to be able to get rid of the rattle at all though.

Paul
 
I can't see the jpeg, but can I assume it has something to do with me only talking **** and never contributing? LOL

No. It's Johnny 5 going "Disassemble ?" .. I just so happened to catch that entire first movie this weekend. What a blast from the past.
 
Does anybody have any idea as to why my grid heater light keeps coming on? I've tried reloading and also the new version without any change. I know the cold weather isn't helping but it's not a code. I can't seem to go 10 miles without it coming on no matter if I drive it hard or not. Any info would be appreciated, an answer would be stellar.
 
I have seen posts where replacing the FCA fixed the grid heater and P1222 code. FYI

Im in the same boat as huck. Curious as to how/why the fca would cause the grid light to come on while driving? As hard as I find this to be true, my problem did start just a couple days after swapping a cp-3.

tapatalking from droidx
 
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Are you guys turning off the pre- injection?

I didn't turn the pre-injection off.

how much horse do you feel like you would loose if you were just off of your 475? My set up will just be a single charger with an s475 ill be heading to the dyno soon and trying to set a realistic goal as my goal. hoping for the mid 900s if its realistic

Not sure on 475 as a single charger, you must have a high stall converter to spool that 475. Let us know how it goes?
 
Huck my 475 lights at 1450-1550 with a 1.0ar. What about us that are running dual cp3's that are having grid heater problems?


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No dual CP3's and only a little 64 in here for now. I have a spare fca so if I get time this weekend I change it out and see if that makes a difference.
 
Huck my 475 lights at 1450-1550 with a 1.0ar. What about us that are running dual cp3's that are having grid heater problems?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No dual CP3's and only a little 64 in here for now. I have a spare fca so if I get time this weekend I change it out and see if that makes a difference.

A quick rundown on my problem. It started right after I removed a modded pump and replaced it with a stock 6.7 pump. No software changes made. Problem shows up with in a couple days. Installed the dual pump kit a few days later and still have the problem. So single or duals, doesnt matter. I have an extra fca and will be putting it in the 6.7 pump being it started on install of that pump. My truck has this problem sporatically. Might set the grid light 3 times in 1hr, might go 2 weeks with no problem. So it may take sometime after swapping fca's to give any info. Just in Smarty's defense, it finally set the light last week with stock tuning. I have cleaned, ohmed, traced, metered every possible wire, termination, connector so at this time Im leaning towards a component problem.
 
What years have this grid heater light? I have never had the light come on, even in -20* weather, I dont even have the grid heater on the truck now and still no light.
 
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