SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

How many are getting the throttle sticking after WOT mines doing it no matter what program I have in it. The last 3 times it did it i didn't get to look at the gauges to see what was going on I was to worried about trying to slow her down. The only way was to put it in to neutral. What do you do to fix this? I don't want to find out what a 7400lb. truck will do to the back of a 4000lb. car haha

She's a 2007 12sec 1/4 700hp dodge with

-ATS stage 5 Transmission
-32 in tires 373 gears
-air dog 165 with the big lines and fuel tank lifter upgrade
- ATS 3 piece manifold
-ATS Aurora 4000 Internally wast-gated
-3.5" boost tubes
-Banks inter-cooler
-banks side air ram (the one were you machine off the side of the block known as the plenum)
-Intake and exhaust extreme port and polish
-snow performance MPG max
-BD 90HP tips
-arisen 15% over cp3 mod
-big sick stage 3 cam
-over-sized push rods
-valve springs i want to say 110's but I'm not 100% sure
-5" turbo back exhaust
-rail pressure, lift pressure, boost, EGT, and Trans temp gauges
- o-ringed head

Its still the 1.1 version. Right now it's programed to
LLT 15
HLT 29
LLRP 15
HLRP 30
LLD 18
HLD 32
I'm working on getting on the dyno but I want to find a good one with the data logger so I can get it dialed in right
 
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JasonCzerak said:
Others:
As for my 16/17/19 it was too little, the response was a little laggy. So I went to 18/18/19 again and it picked up. What I'm getting the feeling of here is if you get to far apart in the numbers, specifically timing and duration, you get some funky characteristics. 18Timing and 20 duration a little sensitive, but 18 timing and 19 duration was rather nice. I'm going to start to bump timing and duration up a number at a time after I test my one requirement; Going WOT in 4th or 5th (4x4 engaged) with out thinking about how I'll feather the throttle in and remain rather smokeless and no rattle. :) Basically passing power with out to much planning.
Click to expand...

1.3 loaded no pop/miss! Thanks Marco I then loaded Jasons setting from above and WOW :woohoo: I may leave it here for a while
 
S.H.O.P said:
How many are getting the throttle sticking after WOT mines doing it no matter what program I have in it. The last 3 times it did it i didn't get to look at the gauges to see what was going on I was to worried about trying to slow her down. The only way was to put it in to neutral. What do you do to fix this? I don't want to find out what a 7400lb. truck will do to the back of a 4000lb. car haha

She's a 2007 12sec 1/4 700hp dodge with

-ATS stage 5 Transmission
-32 in tires 373 gears
-air dog 165 with the big lines and fuel tank lifter upgrade
- ATS 3 piece manifold
-ATS Aurora 4000 Internally wast-gated
-3.5" boost tubes
-Banks inter-cooler
-banks side air ram (the one were you machine off the side of the block known as the plenum)
-Intake and exhaust extreme port and polish
-snow performance MPG max
-BD 90HP tips
-arisen 15% over cp3 mod
-big sick stage 3 cam
-over-sized push rods
-valve springs i want to say 110's but I'm not 100% sure
-5" turbo back exhaust
-rail pressure, lift pressure, boost, EGT, and Trans temp gauges
- o-ringed head

Its still the 1.1 version. Right now it's programed to
LLT 15
HLT 29
LLRP 15
HLRP 30
LLD 18
HLD 32
I'm working on getting on the dyno but I want to find a good one with the data logger so I can get it dialed in right
Click to expand...

Upgrade to the latest 1.3
 
1.3version with LL's @15 HH's @ 20 very touchy. Backed down LL's to 12/12/12 little better. But EGT 1500+ 3/4 to WOT. Torque at 3.
 
gavngrav said:
1.3version with LL's @15 HH's @ 20 very touchy. Backed down LL's to 12/12/12 little better. But EGT 1500+ 3/4 to WOT. Torque at 3.
Click to expand...

What is your setup sounds like you need more air. You keep them temps for a long period you will melt down soon. Back down till your Egts are in check
 
Few folks keep talking about things being " Touchy", I'd think this is due to you guys using more than stock on TQ Management..

Try it on stock..
 
Every LL change I make leads to going through the TQ settings to find the best one.
I'm noticing a lot of new SSR owners just copying someone elses settings...remember...if your mods are nowhere near those of the truck you're copying you're probably wasting your time.
 
BD Special
afe intake
90 ddp nozzles
stage 3 cp3
hamilton 110's
snow performance stage 3
full built suncoast tranny
full gauges
mp 8 "off" at moment
625 studs
Airdog II
FBD 5' exhaust

I changed settings to 14/14/12-24/24/24 torque to 2.
Much better response w/ no ratttle just need to get on open road and run it out. I could def use 150 nozzles and a s480 to twin w/ the special! Anyone have one?
 
Well just tried the new software and after WOT truck keeps pulling after I let off STILL. like its hanging up. any idea's bad smarty?
My number's are
Lt-11
HT-20
LR- 10
HR-20 "seems like it could be a little higher"
LD-12
HD- 20
 
UNBROKEN said:
I'm noticing a lot of new SSR owners just copying someone elses settings...remember...if your mods are nowhere near those of the truck you're copying you're probably wasting your time.
Click to expand...

What he said. Beyond that if your ECM from the factory had different software in it, you maybe wasting your time copying someone elses settings. There can be different softwares in the same year of truck. One of the major advantages of SSR, is the fact that you can change the settings.

What I have found on my truck is, that with the LL settings timing has more effect on drivability then anything else. What I would do is set the LLRail = 1, the LLDur = to about 10 for large injectors, and large turbos, a little higher for the rest, and start with LLTiming = 15. Leaving everthing else the same, go down with the timing 2 numbers at a time, and see what the effect is. Then go back to 15, and start going up two numbers at a time. You can decide from there what drivability you like the best. Some truck will become more responsive as you go down, other will as you go up. All depends on the mods on the truck. Once you get a timing you like then start playing with the duration. A little at a time. The Rail you may never want to change, but if you do, I would play with it last.

As far as HL settings.... You need some way of validating your changes besides seat of pants feel. A dyno works, or if you spend a lot of time at the drag strip it works as well. Having said that... I have not seen a truck yet that 25 for HL timing was not safe. HLDuration will vary a lot. The best way again is to increase it until HP stops going up, or EGT's start getting out of hand, and then stop. Just like timing, you can cause damage if you keep increasing HLduration above peak power. For HLRail, get a good rail pressure gauge. One that responses fast. I have an ISSPRO Performax, and it works very well. Adjust the rail pressure setting so that you have a nice smooth increase in rail pressure, without any drops or spikes. To high of rail pressure will cost you $$$ in the long run.

If you are not at the 1.3 software, upgrade to it. It's awesome.

My recommendations above are based off of experiences with my truck. As mentioned above every truck is different, and you will need to do some tuning. The results are well worth it though.

Paul
 
S.H.O.P said:
Well just tried the new software and after WOT truck keeps pulling after I let off STILL. like its hanging up. any idea's bad smarty?
My number's are
Lt-11
HT-20
LR- 10
HR-20 "seems like it could be a little higher"
LD-12
HD- 20
Click to expand...

Sorry for the double post, but changing the Torque from 3 to 2 solved my WOT hangup. I am running even more HLD now and no problems whatsoever

LLR 10
LLD 10
LLT 10
HLR 38
HLD 38
HLT 28

Runs great and stops when I want it to. :rockwoot:
 
I've made a few 5th gear pulls to 4000rpm with no "hang" sure it's a little slow back to idle but it sure as heck doesn't sit there. TQ on 1.

It's feels like it's a consistent power all the way to 4000, that's kinda cool!

2 weeks till my dyno day. May 20th on a dyno dynamics in rogers, mn.

I'll see about getting on a typical dynojet 240 as well for a few pulls. Since this software can actually spool the turbo, I might actually get a decent run.
 
paulb said:
What he said. Beyond that if your ECM from the factory had different software in it, you maybe wasting your time copying someone elses settings. There can be different softwares in the same year of truck. One of the major advantages of SSR, is the fact that you can change the settings.

What I have found on my truck is, that with the LL settings timing has more effect on drivability then anything else. What I would do is set the LLRail = 1, the LLDur = to about 10 for large injectors, and large turbos, a little higher for the rest, and start with LLTiming = 15. Leaving everthing else the same, go down with the timing 2 numbers at a time, and see what the effect is. Then go back to 15, and start going up two numbers at a time. You can decide from there what drivability you like the best. Some truck will become more responsive as you go down, other will as you go up. All depends on the mods on the truck. Once you get a timing you like then start playing with the duration. A little at a time. The Rail you may never want to change, but if you do, I would play with it last.

As far as HL settings.... You need some way of validating your changes besides seat of pants feel. A dyno works, or if you spend a lot of time at the drag strip it works as well. Having said that... I have not seen a truck yet that 25 for HL timing was not safe. HLDuration will vary a lot. The best way again is to increase it until HP stops going up, or EGT's start getting out of hand, and then stop. Just like timing, you can cause damage if you keep increasing HLduration above peak power. For HLRail, get a good rail pressure gauge. One that responses fast. I have an ISSPRO Performax, and it works very well. Adjust the rail pressure setting so that you have a nice smooth increase in rail pressure, without any drops or spikes. To high of rail pressure will cost you $$$ in the long run.

If you are not at the 1.3 software, upgrade to it. It's awesome.

My recommendations above are based off of experiences with my truck. As mentioned above every truck is different, and you will need to do some tuning. The results are well worth it though.

Paul
Click to expand...

Excellent Post Paul!!
 
Big Swole said:
Few folks keep talking about things being " Touchy", I'd think this is due to you guys using more than stock on TQ Management..

Try it on stock..
Click to expand...

paulb said:
What he said. Beyond that if your ECM from the factory had different software in it, you maybe wasting your time copying someone elses settings. There can be different softwares in the same year of truck. One of the major advantages of SSR, is the fact that you can change the settings.

What I have found on my truck is, that with the LL settings timing has more effect on drivability then anything else. What I would do is set the LLRail = 1, the LLDur = to about 10 for large injectors, and large turbos, a little higher for the rest, and start with LLTiming = 15. Leaving everthing else the same, go down with the timing 2 numbers at a time, and see what the effect is. Then go back to 15, and start going up two numbers at a time. You can decide from there what drivability you like the best. Some truck will become more responsive as you go down, other will as you go up. All depends on the mods on the truck. Once you get a timing you like then start playing with the duration. A little at a time. The Rail you may never want to change, but if you do, I would play with it last.

As far as HL settings.... You need some way of validating your changes besides seat of pants feel. A dyno works, or if you spend a lot of time at the drag strip it works as well. Having said that... I have not seen a truck yet that 25 for HL timing was not safe. HLDuration will vary a lot. The best way again is to increase it until HP stops going up, or EGT's start getting out of hand, and then stop. Just like timing, you can cause damage if you keep increasing HLduration above peak power. For HLRail, get a good rail pressure gauge. One that responses fast. I have an ISSPRO Performax, and it works very well. Adjust the rail pressure setting so that you have a nice smooth increase in rail pressure, without any drops or spikes. To high of rail pressure will cost you $$$ in the long run.

If you are not at the 1.3 software, upgrade to it. It's awesome.

My recommendations above are based off of experiences with my truck. As mentioned above every truck is different, and you will need to do some tuning. The results are well worth it though.

Paul
Click to expand...


I agree with Swole above on torque management. I have found that playing with TQ settings makes it much harder to track your changes. Like Swole said,, try stock TQ setting first, You can get the truck to respond very well with sock management. All my timing related rattles are about gone and I still have a bit of programming to do but the rain sucks.

Pual, excellent post and this is what everyone with a smarty ssr should ready...Sticky?


UNBROKEN said:
Every LL change I make leads to going through the TQ settings to find the best one.
I'm noticing a lot of new SSR owners just copying someone elses settings...remember...if your mods are nowhere near those of the truck you're copying you're probably wasting your time.
Click to expand...

Plus 1, Everybody need to take the time to find out what works for them. If enough people post their settings, we should be able to come up with a data base of sorts for people who have similar setups so they have a base line to begin with.


Thanks for all the posts guys, It has helped me figure a few things out!
 
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My TQ is on level 1 mph 120 rpm stock shift stock. I went and made 5 pulls to watch everything and make sure it was consistent and on WOT RP 22g boost 55psi egt 1250* 85mph when I let off the RP would stay at 22 boost and EGT would drop slowly and after about 6 seconds truck would finally slow down dropping the RP when it did so.
I'll try lowing the HLD and see what it does tomorrow.
 
SHOP,
SIX seconds???? YIKES!!!!
Could you please tell us what year your truck is and the mods done to it?

Typically, a hanging throttle is due to too much duration. How much is too much depends upon injector size. Or in other words, too much fuel flow.
Now how much fuel depends basically upon two parameters. HLD and HLRP.
Then again, increasing the HLRP.... Does it really add any power and or performance? That again depends upon how much the CP3 (s) can flow.
I would suggest to return the RP to 1 and re-dial in the HLD. Only once the right HLD is found increase the HLRP and see IF increasing the RP does add any performance.

Paul, very good write up! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience! I vote it for a sticky too.

Marco
 
Marco,
She's a 2007 12sec 1/4 700hp dodge(when the old smarty was in level 9 non tnt) with

-ATS stage 5 Transmission
-32 in tires 373 gears
-air dog 165 with the big lines and fuel tank lifter upgrade
- ATS 3 piece manifold
-ATS Aurora 4000 Internally wast-gated
-3.5" boost tubes
-Banks inter-cooler
-banks side air ram (the one were you machine off the side of the block known as the plenum)
-Intake and exhaust extreme port and polish
-snow performance MPG max
-BD 90HP tips
-arisen 15% over cp3 mod
-big sick stage 3 cam
-over-sized push rods
-valve springs i want to say 110's but I'm not 100% sure
-5" turbo back exhaust
-rail pressure, lift pressure, boost, EGT, and Trans temp gauges
- o-ringed head

I went for another ride to show my old man what was going on and its more like 3 seconds feels allot longer. What does one number in each setting stand for? like is one number in the HLT sand for 1 degree of timing and 2 is 2 degrees of timing and so on?

I'll give what you said a try tomorrow and see if it goes away
 
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