Starting question

jcarrick

jcarrick

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Joined
Nov 7, 2012
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137
Hey guys,
I know this may be a dumb question but I haven't found any good info on it and don't know if it's a big deal or not.

I have owned quite a few 12v's and all of them except for my current one started on the first crank. My current one takes like 3-5 cranks to start. The other odd thing it does is when you change the fuel filter it is nearly impossible to get it running again without pulling the front diverter valve, pressurizing the tank, bleeding it, putting the dv back in, then bleeding the lines. There are no leaks in the fuel lines, but I have not deleted the fuel heater yet. It is a 215 motor that supposedly has 160k on it and I am getting 20-21 in town and have gotten 23 on the highway. It has a #0 plate, 17* timing, and runs 35 pounds of boost. It runs like a champ and has normal power for these mods. The only concern is why it takes longer to start and air locks when ever the fuel system is opened.

I'm sorry if this is a stupid question or nothing I need to worry about, I just couldn't find any info on other people having this issue and I'm curious about it.


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Whats the idle at? Usually a low idle will cause a longer crank time. If the idle is normal (800-850ish), you can loosen the governor springs a click and readjust the idle to where it should be.

As far as the hard start after the filter change, I think it might just be a quirk with the truck if it doesn't show any other issues otherwise. On my p-pumped 24v, it would air lock after fuel system work to the point that fuel wouldn't move until after the OFV was fully removed. Then it came spraying out. Started up pretty easily otherwise. I just learned to live with that.
 
The idle is normal 800-850. I have never touched the springs. They are stock and the truck will rev to 27-2800, but it de-fuels hard when you get up there. What will loostening them a click do?

Well I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one. Just scares me if I needed to do work on it on the side of the road and didn't have an air compressor to pressurize it.


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On my 215 motor I usually just bleed it using the mechanical pump and bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter. You are cracking the bleeder on top of the fuel filter and using the hand plunger on the lift pump to prime it right? After a filter change I crack the bleeder open and push the plunger on the lift pump until the air bubbles are out and just fuel squirts out. After that I have never had a problem firing it back up.
 
Yes, that is how I try to do mine as well but the pump gets air locked every time. I will try it again though


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Will it fire right up if you press the accelerator pedal down a little bit when you start it?
 
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