Stiffening Capacitor ?

TooMuchBoost

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Apr 22, 2006
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I forgot how you verify if a freshly installed stiffening cap is holding a charge.

Can anyone enlighten me?

Thanks

Even with the older 1 Farad cap in question the Mustang doesn't seem to like to quickly provide 80 or 100 amps of current :hehe: with the headlights and/or AC on and that is with 2-PPI 600.2's that are pretty tightly regulated.

Built to Blast!
 
You would prolly be better off doing the Big Three instead of having a cap or you could get one of these. http://www.kinetikpower.com/hc600.asp

The cap is more of a strain on your electrical system if your alt is not big enough to handle the amps needed.

Incase you dont know what the big 3 is here you go.

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)
2) Battery Negative to Chassis
3) Chassis to Engine Block
 
I bought all the 0/1 gauge wiring and connectors, fuses, etc to do the Big 3 about a year ago...it's all in a box somewhere. LOL
I agree though...I'd do the wiring upgrades before a cap. Fix it right instead of putting a bandaid on it.

There's some good write-ups on the Big 3 at www.sounddomain.com
I think I saw some at www.termpro.com too...
 
UNBROKEN said:
I bought all the 0/1 gauge wiring and connectors, fuses, etc to do the Big 3 about a year ago...it's all in a box somewhere. LOL
I agree though...I'd do the wiring upgrades before a cap. Fix it right instead of putting a bandaid on it.

There's some good write-ups on the Big 3 at www.sounddomain.com
I think I saw some at www.termpro.com too...


When you find that box full of wire send it to me.:thankyou2:
 
Hell no...I still remember paying 120 bucks just for the piece of damned wire. LOL
Stupid Phoenix Gold crap. LOL
I'm the idiot with 4 140 dollar RCA's connecting his stuff. LOL
I like overkill......but I'm a firm believer in not skimping on the wiring. It's the base for the whole system.
 
heinzboy said:
You would prolly be better off doing the Big Three instead of having a cap or you could get one of these. http://www.kinetikpower.com/hc600.asp

The cap is more of a strain on your electrical system if your alt is not big enough to handle the amps needed.

Incase you dont know what the big 3 is here you go.

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)
2) Battery Negative to Chassis
3) Chassis to Engine Block

Funny you mention this because I just read what seemed like a 10,000 word dissertation LOL on this very topic but on a different site. After reading all of it makes simple sense the only thing I never thought of was piggy backing new wire while leaving the stock wire in place.

Thanks for pointing out the obvious I missed and I guess I'll buy some wire this weekend.

Minus peak rapid voltage issues imagine an 06 Moosestang GT with Memphis M Series 8" (coax config) and Mephis M Series 5" x 7" (coax config) both using silk domes in each front door running off a 600.2 @ 2 ohm stereo.:hehe: :hehe:

Another 600.2 pushes a Punch HX2 10 in a Virtual Technology box.

Needless to say its freakin' loud on what voltage it has now,LOL
 
I can tell you from a recent test setup at work DO NOT skimp on the wire. I now have another 5+ hours to add to a project rewiring a load bank cabinet with #1 and 4/0. My total load is supposed to be 1400A at 12VDC.

Voltage drops add up real quick and youll notice the drop in current and perofrmance.

I would rather see someone buy a cheaper (not cheap) wire in a larger gauge, than the overpriced phoenix gold in a smaller size. If you guys have any specific questions about wire size and charging systems, we have some pretty detailed information at work I can help you with.
 
UNBROKEN said:
I like overkill......but I'm a firm believer in not skimping on the wiring. It's the base for the whole system.

Agree 100% but figured the 00 I used in the PSD's would look funny running under the carpet.LOL It's long enough for me to run outside of the car to do some testing this weekend. I might try that but I doubt my power wire is the shortfall in this situation....
 
n8ick said:
I can tell you from a recent test setup at work DO NOT skimp on the wire. I now have another 5+ hours to add to a project rewiring a load bank cabinet with #1 and 4/0. My total load is supposed to be 1400A at 12VDC.

Voltage drops add up real quick and youll notice the drop in current and perofrmance.

I would rather see someone buy a cheaper (not cheap) wire in a larger gauge, than the overpriced phoenix gold in a smaller size. If you guys have any specific questions about wire size and charging systems, we have some pretty detailed information at work I can help you with.

I believe this too and one common mistake people make whether installing a CB or 1000w amp is using a smaller gauge ground wire than they used for their power wire.

Another mistake I've seen a lot is crazy lengths of ground wire.
 
I have not played with any Deka's myself. For the same group size, their ratings are less than that of an Odyssey. The ratings are not off by much. That being said, if you get it at a good price, go for it. AGM's are pretty stout batteries and should perform well for you.
 
n8ick said:
I have not played with any Deka's myself. For the same group size, their ratings are less than that of an Odyssey. The ratings are not off by much. That being said, if you get it at a good price, go for it. AGM's are pretty stout batteries and should perform well for you.

Thanks!

I've never heard of Odessey....
 
Maybe I need to Rethink on the batteries. But than again no one pays MSRP on stuff.
 
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