still puking with egr turned off?

BIG JUICE

BIG JUICE

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Dec 17, 2006
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using eric's xtreme street with the egr turned off my truck pukes worse then with the stock tune using the egr. Why is that? I know I need to delete the egr completely but I am waiting another 6k miles to get the studs installed under warranty and egr delete at the same time.

I was at 250 degrees today before I finally had to pull over and add coolant. it will flash over from like 180 to close to 240 and then finally line out after a couple of miles. but today really scared me!

What's crazy is with no tune(stock) its fine. Seems like headgaskets again to me. What do yall think?
 
just because the egr is turned off, doesn't mean exhaust doesn't go though the egr cooler and superheat the coolant. You need to block off the exhaust at the up-pipe to prevent exhaust flow into the cooler. Turning off the egr just prevents the valve from opening to the intake.

Also running a tune causes the truck to run hotter thats why there is no problem when its stock.
 
running stock down I-75 it was doing the same thing now. I am thinking gaskets because it has progressively gotten worse in the last few months. It was boiling the coolant in the tank when I got home. coolant temps hovered at 253 all the way home and would occasionally drop back to regular. I just hate to waste my time with the block off plate if it isn't what's wrong. I will get it in there but just seems unlikey. what do yall think? gaskets again?
 
possibly just an oil cooler..if the coolant temps are that hot..that would be my first guess..
 
even with an uppipe blocked off you can still have puking issues, and with studs still. are you running factory head gaskets ?
 
i still blew my egr cooler with it bocked off. then i deleted it an i still puke. and i have studs. its getting old
 
if EGR is COMPLETELY deleted you probably have head issues..what/how did you delete it?
 
To the OP, if your EGR cooler has a little crack, you will get the problems you see. Tunes generate more exhaust pressure and higher temps. With the EGR valve closed, hot exhaust gases do not "flow"" past the EGR cooler, but they can get up in there. Being hotter and at higher pressure, they can push more coolant out than your stock tune. Could also be the heads, but don't totally rule out the EGR system. Until you remove it completely as well as the oil cooler, you can't rule out those two MF's to be the cause.
 
ralphinnj said:
To the OP, if your EGR cooler has a little crack, you will get the problems you see. Tunes generate more exhaust pressure and higher temps. With the EGR valve closed, hot exhaust gases do not "flow"" past the EGR cooler, but they can get up in there. Being hotter and at higher pressure, they can push more coolant out than your stock tune. Could also be the heads, but don't totally rule out the EGR system. Until you remove it completely as well as the oil cooler, you can't rule out those two MF's to be the cause.
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are you saying that you removed you entire oil cooler as well?
 
You don't want to remove the oil cooler. You need it. Oil coolers fail due to cooling restrictions in the egr cooler.
 
No, it is the opposite. The oil cooler has the restriction (in the coolant side passages). Then when you get any small debris in your coolant (and you always do), it starts to clog in the oil cooler. This same coolant flows from there to the EGR cooler. With slow flow, it can spot boil, and in extreme cases, it cracks part of your EGR cooler. The EGR cooler, by far, sees much higher temps than the oil cooler. Another issue with the oil cooler is that it is in the "V" of the engine, which is piss poor design. I should have clarified, when I said remove the oil cooler, I meant also to replace it with an external one that uses air. It is already being done. This way, you completely eliminate all root causes. No doubt. Can't puke due to EGR cooler failure or oil cooler restrictions if both are gone! Anyway, didn't want to imply that you can get away without an oil cooler. You need it, but not the way Ford designed it. That is a crap design.
 
ralphinnj said:
No, it is the opposite. The oil cooler has the restriction (in the coolant side passages). Then when you get any small debris in your coolant (and you always do), it starts to clog in the oil cooler. This same coolant flows from there to the EGR cooler. With slow flow, it can spot boil, and in extreme cases, it cracks part of your EGR cooler. The EGR cooler, by far, sees much higher temps than the oil cooler. Another issue with the oil cooler is that it is in the "V" of the engine, which is piss poor design. I should have clarified, when I said remove the oil cooler, I meant also to replace it with an external one that uses air. It is already being done. This way, you completely eliminate all root causes. No doubt. Can't puke due to EGR cooler failure or oil cooler restrictions if both are gone! Anyway, didn't want to imply that you can get away without an oil cooler. You need it, but not the way Ford designed it. That is a crap design.
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We are both correct. You will see restricted oil coolers and restricted egr coolers. When the EGR cooler ruptures the soot will cake inside the coolant passage. Many oil coolers have been replaced and have failed again from clogged EGR coolers as well.

Ralph the oil cooler in the V is done for packaging. If they built the trucks the way we mod them they wouldn't be able to sell them. Remember Ford has to get a product to meet EPA and sell it before we can screw with it.
 
PSDPlayer said:
You don't want to remove the oil cooler. You need it. Oil coolers fail due to cooling restrictions in the egr cooler.
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true, i wouldnt delete the oil cooler completely, however i have plans to relocate it to an external one that is air cooled and not run off of engine coolant, but first things first i have to delete the egr system completely before i rule it out as one of my puking issues also.
 
so if I get one of the fancy oil coolers from my other post I could delete the oil cooler too? I am getting studs, new gaskets and full egr delete in the next week. If I can get rid of some more stuff that will make this dfamn junker last I'm not worried about the $ because its cheaper then troubleshooting out of warranty! I literally cant afford to fix this bisitch outta warranty and will (hold your ears) swap this junker out for a cummins long before I waste more $ on something that will not do me right. Its like a sluutt.. ride it for a while then let it go.....would like to wife the 6leaker
 
Yes, if you go with an external oil cooler, you will not need the factory one. It is not a bad idea to do it at the same time that you do the EGR cooler/system delete. This way you can get the coolant lines re-routed in one shot as long as you have the "V" opened up (both the oil cooler and the EGR cooler are in there). This takes a nice load off of your radiator by transferring the oil cooler workload to the external oil cooler and by eliminating the heat load of the EGR cooler.

As far as your warranty concerns, I would be careful what you do. Many dealers will deny warranty repairs if they see you have done things like EGR delete's, studs, etc. It is an indication that you are setting it up for higher performance, which in turn will explain other failures. Some dealers are somewhat mod friendly, but in the last 6 months, FMC has cracked down on warranty payments to dealers, forcing them to get prior approval and being very strict on certain matters. If continuing to be able to get warranty coverage is a concern, I would advise not doing a lot of mods. The more you change, the easier it is for them to deny you. One approach is to just stay basically stock until your warranty ends and then ddo the mods since you are on the hook anyway. Basically stock means a pipe, an SCT and that's about it. You can always remove the SCT and very few dealers will hassle you about a pipe.
 
PSDPlayer said:
We are both correct. You will see restricted oil coolers and restricted egr coolers. When the EGR cooler ruptures the soot will cake inside the coolant passage. Many oil coolers have been replaced and have failed again from clogged EGR coolers as well.

Ralph the oil cooler in the V is done for packaging. If they built the trucks the way we mod them they wouldn't be able to sell them. Remember Ford has to get a product to meet EPA and sell it before we can screw with it.
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Doug, thanks. I wasn't aware that the EGR coolers also failed on their own leading to oil cooler failure. But what you say makes sense. Yeah, I understand the EPA aspect, and that explains the need for an EGR system, but I think the oil cooler design is less than optimal (by a lot) and if FMC would have done a larger, free-er flowing (coolant side) oil cooler and (very important) added a coolant filter, a LOT of puking events would be avoided. Both of thos mods (oil cooler and filter) do not hurt emissions, but obviously add a couple hundred net to the cost. But I bet they way overspent their warranty budget on all the puking. Would have been a LOT cheaper to do what I said and of course we all know that the head bolts situation sucks. At least they should have used studs (again, a slight upcharge), or better, they should have redesigned the head bolt arrangement to have more bolts, thicker diameter, etc.
 
I have had a coolant filter set up on truck for close to 50k miles I am getting warranty work for the puking and want to remove anythong I can while the tech is in there. This will be the second gasket job in 4k miles. I currently do not have studs and just have the egr turned off thru tuning. This time studs will installed and egr will be fully deleted. I was just happy to get the truck fixed the first time as all the dealers local to me will void warranty for even an exhaust. I had it completely stock when I took it in. I was told not to reinstall the tuner when I picked up the truck as there was "networking codes" and the tech said that my gaskets were the worst he has ever seen! lol prob didn't help I rode around like that for months trying to find a dealer to even work on it:shake:

If installing one of the aftermarket cooler what would I need to do? just reroute oil lines up to it? Seems simple enough but never have seen a picture of the cooler on the engine.thanks for your help guys. I want to enjoy the truck not wrench on it.
 
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