Stock Flex plates

S

sstockton

New member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
369
How well do these really hold up? I'm not going to be racing the truck a lot, and am generally pretty easy on it. However when I get it all back together I do want to take it down to the track and see what it runs. Think it will handle a couple 20psi boosted launches? If not, what's the highest PSI I should launch at? Or is it more than just the initial launch that will kill it?

And whats the deal with the Haisley insert kit listed on Goerend's site? Will that help make a stock plate stronger?
Sean
 
I never had a problem with mine in 5 years of abuse, but i did swap mine out the last time i had the trans out last fall because im hoping i dont have to go in there anymore for a long time.
 
Thats good to hear. I've heard some things about billet flex plates not providing enough flex and breaking input shafts. I think I'll give it a shot on the stock plate. Pulling the trans isn't that hard, and if I were just pulling it to switch that it would just be an afternoon job.
Sean
 
Yea when you have a lift its not bad but after 3 on the floor in the winter, always seems mine went when it was 15 degrees out. It sucked. You can also swap in a stock 6.7 flex plate and they are better from the get go, they are solid not full of holes. If dave georend is doin work for you on your trans just ask him, he wont steer you wrong. He is the best person i ever dealt with for any parts.
 
My buddies stock flexplate ripped out, and hes got a suncoast convertor and hts built trans. Get a billet
 
You can always take another stock flexplate and have the starter ring machined off and bolt it in with the original stock flexplate.... Never seen one done like that break... and I have seen a few holding stupid power.
 
Timbeaux38 said:
You can always take another stock flexplate and have the starter ring machined off and bolt it in with the original stock flexplate.... Never seen one done like that break... and I have seen a few holding stupid power.
Click to expand...

thats the way that the garmon trans had the flex plates done when i went to swap my hts trans into the truck with my laminated fly wheel. and i installed it right into my buddies truck with the stacked flex plates. i have 2 flex plates for sale too. 90 bucks shipped for both.
 
How much do you think it would be to have one machined off like that? I had a 12v guy point me in the direction of an SFI approved flex plate that he is running for $150.00

I may take you up on those 2 flex plates you have leonard, I wouldn't mind having an extra one or 2 kicking around incase I did break mine. I keep an extra input shaft for that reason.
Sean
 
sstockton said:
How much do you think it would be to have one machined off like that? I had a 12v guy point me in the direction of an SFI approved flex plate that he is running for $150.00

I may take you up on those 2 flex plates you have leonard, I wouldn't mind having an extra one or 2 kicking around incase I did break mine. I keep an extra input shaft for that reason.
Sean
Click to expand...

really you would just have to take it to a machine shop and have them cut the welds and make sure its balanced once the starter ring is off. shouldn't be but a few dollars. i wouldn't think another more than like 50 bucks to have them machine it. you could always just cut it your self then have them balance it
 
A stock plate will handle 30lbs plus boost launches. How many I cant say. I did have one for bout 2 yrs before I twisted the center out of it. Get a double deep tranny pan and try and keep that tranny cool and you wont have any problems.
 
Yeah, I've got a double deep pan, triple disc converter, VB, Upgraded clutches and intermediate band, billet shafts etc... So the trans is solid, just thinking my flex plate is the weak link at this point, and while the trans is out right now it would be a good time to upgrade the flex plate especially since I want to see what she'll run when I get her back together. I'm thinking 20psi is about all the brakes will hold for now, since I'm still running drums in the rear.

Leonard do you have a paypal account, or how would you want payment on those 2 flex plates?
Sean
 
I had drum breaks in the rear and could hold it to 30lbs. Although some of my best passes were leaving the line at 15lbs. It is your weak link but will last unless it looks to start having hot spots on it. Id replace it if you have the money.
 
Well I'll check it out and see if it looks like there are starting to be hot spots on it or not.
Sean
 
Why skimp on a flexplate? you have spent all that money on billet shafts.
 
I guess thats one way to look at it. kind of pointless thread then.
 
well you can set dual flex play up and it will break before a billet flywheel will but won't break at 500-550 hp as a single stock plate will
 
I dont think having a billet flywheel will cause breakage. Didnt have mine long after I blew my engine so take it with a grain of salt.
 
I broke my stocker. But put another one in for a fuse. Like was mentioned here before I'd rather have that break than a tranny shaft. Flexplates are cheap compared to a $5k tranny, yes it you break a input shaft it could take the rest of the tranny with it. If I had more power ( I'm at 600 rwhp) say 700 horse I'd go to a billet or laminated just because I wouldn't want to be breaking them all the time, but for where I'm at I think the stocker is my best option. Yes, I've done a few 20psi 4wd launches. It actually tore the center out at 70 mph when I kicked it down...scared the crap outta me, I thought a rod let go.
Corey
 
Well looks like I should have a couple coming my way pretty soon here, that way I at least have a spare. I am also going to look into having a machine shop cut that ring off and balance it and using it as an insert to make it stronger.

I starting to think I'll be at that level where I should start worrying about having issues with it. I'm running a drag comp, "200hp" 8hole edm injectors, twins, looking at getting a cam too, built trans etc...
Sean
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top