studs install procedure

Penni

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Getting ready to install studs on my CR, replacing bolts.... I understand to pull one bolt at a time and replace with the stud and go on.... now do start in the middle (tightening sequence)? Do you go to full torque or still stage each one stud up then move on?

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You really should just pull the head and replace gasket. Then install the studs. That one at a time procedure is ghetto. If you're going to do anything, just get in there and tighten the stock bolts. IF you ever blow the gasket, then go back together with studs.

MY 2cents
 
Going with a bigger charger, just wanted insurance and didn't want it to get to the point of blown gasket then having to surface etc etc

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Going with a bigger charger, just wanted insurance and didn't want it to get to the point of blown gasket then having to surface etc etc

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I would say you have a better chance not blowing the gasket if you crank on your stock bolts vs. pull them and installing studs one by one.
 
Ok.... soooo, what, 90 past? 45?

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I just did one by one install with a 464 charger I had my 60psi gauge pinned and no problems yet. Fingers crossed lol
 
Ok.... soooo, what, 90 past? 45?

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Set your torque wrench at 125. Follow the sequence. If a bolt does not want to move, move on to the next, don't force it.
 
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Only truck I have ever blown a head gasket on was oringed and studded. Done several with the one at a time method and have yet to have one blow.

I see it being ghetto to attempt to torque the bolts further.
 
Only truck I have ever blown a head gasket on was oringed and studded. Done several with the one at a time method and have yet to have one blow.

I see it being ghetto to attempt to torque the bolts further.

LOL

I'm ghetto. Hell yes.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kick Start View Post
Only truck I have ever blown a head gasket on was oringed and studded. Done several with the one at a time method and have yet to have one blow.

I see it being ghetto to attempt to torque the bolts further.


I'm ghetto. Hell yes.

never met you...but funny sheot right there
 
Meh I think there's something to be said about a well settled gasket that's been sealed for 100,000+ miles. Some guys have luck with stock bolts some don't. However, pretty much everyone has good luck with 625's torqued tight.
 
I replace one at a time following the original torque sequence. When I install them I only go to 100 ft/lbs and then once they are all installed i got back around to the torque spec of the studs...usually 125ft/lbs. With 625's on a stock head gaskets I made over 1000rwhp with a single and a sh!t load nitrous.
 
Anyone ever LOOKED at the actual amount of threads that are actually engaged at the ends of the bolts, after they pull them out?
Tearing down as many as I do, it's a wonder they don't snap off under torque.

Mark.
 
I think the stock bolts are underrated usually; considering I snapped off studs at a lower torque than I did with stock bolts while the stock bolts were also pulling o-rings into a gasket.
 
It may be that WHERE something stretches is key to success or failure.
All I know is that, to me, having less than half the threads of a head bolt in the block is unnerving.

Mark.
 
I think the main problem is you do not get a decal with Cummins head bolts. Decals kick ass.
 
Meh I think there's something to be said about a well settled gasket that's been sealed for 100,000+ miles. Some guys have luck with stock bolts some don't. However, pretty much everyone has good luck with 625's torqued tight.


I agree with this one, no way am I pulling a well seated gasket and starting fresh. I also tell everyone to go with the 625's, 425s are not worth it imo.


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It may be that WHERE something stretches is key to success or failure.
All I know is that, to me, having less than half the threads of a head bolt in the block is unnerving.

Mark.


So studs don't have the same contact area as the bolts?
 
I studded mine 1 by 1 in a procedure and it's been 4 years. No issues. Just have to make sure the bottom of the hole has all fluid out of it.
 
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