studs install procedure

I think it's pretty common to run a bottom tap in the block and allow for some extra thread engagement. That's how I did mine anyway. ARP's + bottom tapping + doing one at a time + three warm/cool retorques = eight years later and holding ~65 psi.

--Eric
 
years ago I bought new Cummins head bolts. I can't believe how strong they were. I torqued them to 130 the first time, they held 60 psi. A few years later I was going with a bigger charger and wanted to clamp down some more. My torque wrench wasn't acting right, so I went 90* past 110 ft lbs. They felt like butter but held 55-60 without any issue.
 
A guy from ARP told me to make sure you get plenty of the Ultra Torque stuff on the washers and nuts too, otherwise it will throw your torque reading off.
 
If you have o-rings and you blow the head gasket. Do the o-rings need replaced or can they be used again?
 
What are the details of your engine? Fire ringed? How does this work so well for some people


Good machining, fire ring grooves in head and block, custom gasket and keatings torque procedure.
 
Good machining, fire ring grooves in head and block, custom gasket and keatings torque procedure.


That's basically what everyone has said I really want to try it , but have been skeptical.
 
A guy from ARP told me to make sure you get plenty of the Ultra Torque stuff on the washers and nuts too, otherwise it will throw your torque reading off.

this is because the friction between the threads, head and washers and between the nuts and washers can cause you to get 125 ft lbs that isnt true. the arp lube reduces that frictions so you get more true or a true torque. i bought and extra bottle when i did my studs and use plenty of lube.

lots of guys do the 1x1 method and it works. i pulled my head and had it decked and a valve job done since i was already in there, had the time and money. you might as well do your valve lash while you are in there too.
 
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