Super 40/35 14cm

jimbo486

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Jan 24, 2010
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Worked on it for a few hours Saturday morning to get it bolted in. By Friday, I had all the necessary parts I needed to do the swap. Everything went in very smooth and quick. Then I discovered I didn't have the adapter for the oil line into the turbo. Blame it on not doing any research first and then finding out that stock non-intercooled h1c turbos don't have this adapter. It was my lucky day after making a Facebook post stating that I was in desperate need of it. A friend of mine text me a picture of it and asked, "looking for this?" I asked him how much and he said not to worry. That made my day!!



Got it pre-lubed with some oil, tightened up the oil line then started it....

This thing's loud!!! Here you can see why.


It actually sounds good idling and when you've got your foot in it but you get one heck of a foot massage! Lol

The exhaust is only temporary until this weekend when I can get to a local muffler shop and have a section of 4" expanded to slip over the downpipe then put a seal-clamp on it. From there, it'll take a turn out to the side and exit in front of the rear wheel with the turn-down tip just barely sticking out. I plan to cut a couple sections off of my previous exhaust system and probably be able to use the existing hangers.

The previous system was one solid piece from the downpipe to the end. A 10ft. length of 4" was welded to it last year when I upgraded to 4" exhaust.



I need to get the wastegate set. I dropped the compressor tank to 30psi, pulled the wastegate hose and put the air gun to it. It seemed to take well under 30psi for it to open as I didn't have the valve on the gun nearly fully open which at the full-open position should've given it 30psi.

Here are some other miscellaneous pictures of things while I waiting for parts throughout the week.





Throttle response feels a lot better. Last night when cruising to my sister's engagement party, I noticed it doesn't take much pedal movement to get the truck moving.

I disconnected the wastegate the other day. Although it was set at 28-30psi, drive pressure wasn't taken into account. With drive pressure acting/pushing against the "puck," the combination of boost and drive pressure was causing it to open early, about 17psi on the gauge. I know the actuator rod can be adjusted to change the opening pressure so I just need to figure out how so that I can adjust it to open at a true 28-30psi.

Here's a short 30sec. clip of my drive home earlier this week. I was approaching a just-turned-green light in 3rd, rolled into it lightly accelerating out of the turn. Shifted into 4th, up to 5th and then slowly into 6th and gave it one last short burst at no more than 1/2 throttle in each gear. The thermostat had just opened so I was being easy on 'er.

1990 dodge ram d350 :: IMG_0173.mp4 video by jimbo486 - Photobucket
 
You're on the right track using an air compressor to set the wastegate, but I'd go to 39 - 40 psi. You'll appreciate extra boost and the '40 compressor will flow enough air and will stay in the map range.

Mine was set to 47 and I didn't realize it until I hooked it up and with my sticks I pushed over 55psi at WOT :doh:
I connected the wastegate REAL QUICK. Now she behaves :st::ft:
 
that looks good. I have a '92 ex cab, dually, 4wd that I just bought. I'm about to start slowly getting this thing running good
 
You're on the right track using an air compressor to set the wastegate, but I'd go to 39 - 40 psi. You'll appreciate extra boost and the '40 compressor will flow enough air and will stay in the map range.

Mine was set to 47 and I didn't realize it until I hooked it up and with my sticks I pushed over 55psi at WOT :doh:
I connected the wastegate REAL QUICK. Now she behaves :st::ft:

Absolutely! Once I figure out how to adjust it, I'll make fine adjustments until it opens at the true boost psi reading on the gauge. As I mentioned, drive pressure acts against the puck (especially with the divider drilled, there's more drive pressure acting on it), once boost comes up, it doesn't take much to open then and it was opening at 17psi on the gauge. Because of that, I won't know the magic number to set the actuator at so it opens at the right psi which is why I'll make minor adjustments to increase it. I don't like doing things more than once but to get it tuned just right, I don't mind. As is, with the wastegate disconnected, I saw 35psi in 5th at almost WOT and a little over 35psi (maybe 37) in 6th and still under WOT. I do want to keep it under 40psi and not take my chances on the headgasket as I replaced it just last August.
 
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