Suspension Block Idea?????

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71CHEVY4x4

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Curios if anyone here is running a suspension block that runs from the hitch to the bottom of the rear axle at a diagnol using tube and adjustable heims??

Hope that makes sense?

Alot of local guys are running this instead of the usual suspension block that is directly above the axle.

My thought is this could really help take some stress off the frame section and apply it directly to the axle which in turn applies pressure to your traction bars. It basically is a traction bar that runs from the axle back to the hitch, but limits suspension travel also?

Anyone familiar with this?

Does it work?

thanks guys
 
Most of all the trucks in our area do this . Mine run to the top then my traction bar mounts to the bottom of the same mount thats welded to the axle and hog head tying them together , pretty common with the gas pullers also, I also use the rear bars to adjust hitch height
 
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does this help plant the tires any harder? any other gains to be seen from it?
 
i like the idea, but clarify how you can still have the needed 2" or 1" etc for diff. classes. thanks!
 
ktmracer21 said:
i like the idea, but clarify how you can still have the needed 2" or 1" etc for diff. classes. thanks!
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Well to b honest u cant unless the bars cross each other , my new mounts are like this EX I have 2 holes on top one behind the axle and one in front ,on the bottom hole it sits wright under the axle so if i move the top bar in front or past the pivot point it will have travel if I mount it behind the pivot it wont think of it like this V cant pivot but a X will
 
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I ran a similar setup on my truck and on Lynn's 2wd. On an ex-cab long bed I would say it does help, but on a shorter wheel base truck it may actually hurt you depending on the angle and mounting points of the front traction bars. Too much angle on the rear bars, and a long set of front traction bars would probably cause the front end to lift up more causing the front tires to loose grip, and also cause the rear to have alot more stress and break axle parts. One other thing, depending on how much angle you have the rear bars mounted at, you will still need a set of regular suspension stops to act as safteys so that if the rear bars bend or break, you still have some kind of suspension limit. I alway set mine to where my regular suspension stops were around a 1/8-1/4" from the axle tube.

Here is a similar setup I drew up myself that is on Lynn's 2wd. I know of a couple other trucks using a similar setup and they seem to work very well.

FrameSetup.jpg
 
in most classes i have seen, this would be considered a "draw-bar" and it is prohibited. i was going to do it from the frame rail down and try to get away with it but my buddy with his cummins tried first and didnt get away with it. it is probably allowed in the 3.0 and higher classes, but in stock through 2.8 i haven't seen a club that allows draw-bar style hitches
 
That drawing descibes it very well. I am new to all this and am actually a ***GAS**** puller but I cannot find a site near as usful as this site is. Everyone here is helpful and even polite about it. haha

I have tried to post some pics of my ride but have not been to lucky

I have already designed suspension stops that come off the frame above the axle, but am in the process of designing some rear bumper stops that will attach to my hitch so I thought about incoporating the "rear traction bars" into my design

My truck is a regular cab 71 chevy one ton, so it sounds like this might not be a good option? Or I guesss I could always run both?

thanks again guys
 
Finally some pics
 

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Don't run them to the hitch, run them to the frame before the hitch then they are "adjustable suspension stops" and it can't be considerred a draw bar style hitch. That's the way Kino (Justin) built mine.
 
ramtough01 said:
damn that is a sharp and clean truck
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Ditto! Drop a cummins in it and it'd really be somethin! :rockwoot:

If you ran the bar you are talking about they could be build to work in a 1" travel rule. If you used like a 3pt hitch arm, have the top piece have a big nut on it, and get rid of the threads inside the top of the middle section it would be able to move up and down.... and stop on the nut.
 
AND YOU SLED PULL WITH THAT THING!!!!!!!!!! OMG!!!!!!!!!!!! You could eat off the under carage!!!!!!! I would rather have that in a few car and truck shows than hooked to a sled!!!!!

For those of you interested in that complete setup I can install both the front and rear bars on your truck for $800.

For those that want to make your own system, look at the possition and the angle of the axle brackets. The Forward sweep, and the rear mounting holes being a slight higher than the front holes makes a difference.
 
Thanks guys for the compliments!! I am only going to hook to a sled around here at some local pulls nothing big time but would still like to put on a good show. Problem is these days it takes 500+ cubic inches to even compete at the local brush pulls it seems. My 468 is nothing!! I am currently building a front weight bumper for it and hope to pull next April
 
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