IHinsanity
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- Feb 2, 2011
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What horsepower should a shaft be put it in and the TA be done away with?
TA or not?
- Thread starter IHinsanity
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Signature600
THA MAN!
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- Aug 5, 2006
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Stock...TA's are junk. When ever we have an IH here at the store, we sell it with a bad T/A...if it works, they got a bonus...
We've had to repair way too many a month after we sold tractors to ever imply that they're good anymore!
Chris
We've had to repair way too many a month after we sold tractors to ever imply that they're good anymore!
Chris
pwrstrokenstang
oil burner pulling team
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- Mar 28, 2009
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i would say over 600. my buddy is prob 650-700hp and his 5 disc t/a, that is the strongest available, made it one whole season lol. he is now going straight shaft.
TA or not to TA
A buddy has a 1466 hot farm with the 5 disc TA and a 466 1066 also with a 5 disc and they have had pretty good luck with them so far. I think they have 2 years on both and still going, for how long who knows but I would think around 750 or so you might want to do away with it, just a guess. Honestly, I dont think the torque helps the hot farm that much any how, all it seems to do in the end is break momentum and spin out in my opinion (atleast on a 700 or 750 hp setup). I run a 418 cu in farmall M and I almost put a 400 rear end on it but I was watching other antiques with a TA and they work ok if you are running a stock or close to stock motor where they dont have enough smoke to break the tires loose when you pull the TA but all it would really do for me is and instant spin out and more Sh** to fix, just my .02
op:
A buddy has a 1466 hot farm with the 5 disc TA and a 466 1066 also with a 5 disc and they have had pretty good luck with them so far. I think they have 2 years on both and still going, for how long who knows but I would think around 750 or so you might want to do away with it, just a guess. Honestly, I dont think the torque helps the hot farm that much any how, all it seems to do in the end is break momentum and spin out in my opinion (atleast on a 700 or 750 hp setup). I run a 418 cu in farmall M and I almost put a 400 rear end on it but I was watching other antiques with a TA and they work ok if you are running a stock or close to stock motor where they dont have enough smoke to break the tires loose when you pull the TA but all it would really do for me is and instant spin out and more Sh** to fix, just my .02
op:
BlackSkyRacing
Living Under a Rock
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- Mar 22, 2007
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Really? I've only seen one that's flat out failed... Broke hard parts due to the owner using the down shift as a brake with 60,000# of liquid manure behind him. Every other one that's acting up has had a root cause that didn't always involve the TA itself. A slipping high side has almost always been the engine clutch slipping due to the shock load since it's either wore out or wet with oil. A no shift or a flare going down into low is an adjustment or cable problem. Delayed or soft downshift is usually a weak MCV pump.
Don't get me wrong, we've put a ton of them in because the customers always seem to be convinced that they're junk... Even after we show them good evidence that it's fine, it's as bad as every Tom, Dick, and Harry thinkin that dodge transmissions are absolute junk and can't hold power or last more than 100k.
BlackSkyRacing
Living Under a Rock
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Even in a hot farm they're useful for getting out of the hole without just dusting the tires off... Leave in the low side of your normal gear so you don't have to be so mean to the clutch, get out of the hole 10 feet or so then throw it in high and finish crankin the throttle. Then it's as simple as go till you run out of traction in the high side, no need to downshift.
I don't care how much hp you have, it's still a hook-up game... Heck even NTPA tractors will feather the throttle out of the hole to catch a better bite, that's why alcohol has taken such a strong hold; you can do that without getting under your chargers. A five disc spragless unit will hold up just fine to 800+ so long as the MCV pump is in good shape and you play with the pressure relief a little
I don't care how much hp you have, it's still a hook-up game... Heck even NTPA tractors will feather the throttle out of the hole to catch a better bite, that's why alcohol has taken such a strong hold; you can do that without getting under your chargers. A five disc spragless unit will hold up just fine to 800+ so long as the MCV pump is in good shape and you play with the pressure relief a little
IHinsanity
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thanks for the info i was jus a lil curious...I know someone who has an electric TA for sale with billet input shaft? any ideas
we've had pry 4 go out on us in stock real farming situations, you could be right and there could be a different root problem, idk
as far as getting bite, with our slipper clutch it starts pushing real hard around 4500 rpm, and you can let it come out nice and slowly to hook up without much problems
never driven a spring clutch so it might be harder to do with those, idk
blacksky, you seem really knowledgeable, and ik that i don't know much...I'm just saying that IMO i would spend the money on something else to make more power or safety or lighten the tractor up, The t/a could help to hook up like you said but it is also one more thing to break, because eventually in pulling everything does break. just my .02
as far as getting bite, with our slipper clutch it starts pushing real hard around 4500 rpm, and you can let it come out nice and slowly to hook up without much problems
never driven a spring clutch so it might be harder to do with those, idk
blacksky, you seem really knowledgeable, and ik that i don't know much...I'm just saying that IMO i would spend the money on something else to make more power or safety or lighten the tractor up, The t/a could help to hook up like you said but it is also one more thing to break, because eventually in pulling everything does break. just my .02
Ackerdiesel
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I agree with blacksky when we had our 1206 al cannon built the engine and everything beefed up the T/A and etc. That T/A held 1200hp for several seasons.
