The saga continues.

F

farmboy3510

New member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
208
Last night I got my truck timed (again) and today when I fired it up it seemed to run better. Then I drove it and it didn't seem to have any power, no boost, in general it ran like crap. Then I noticed a leak on my return line somewhere on the back of the head, would this have anything to do with truck having no power and not running right? Then I talked to the guy at Aeromotive today and he informed me that my pump will not pull the fuel out of the tank that I have to put a fitting in the bottom of the tank so gravity will help supply enough fuel. So now I am wondering if the pump is going to work at all. So I put a fuel pressure gauge in front of pump to see what it is doing. How much pressure should I have to get good power? Sorry for the long story, just starting to doubt if it is ever going to run right. Thanks for all of the help in advance.
 
Probably want 30psi or better.

Most pumps aren't good at sucking fluids, they are designed to push them. That being said, your pump height will be very close to the tank height, so only negative head pressure would be from restrictions between the tank and pump. Get some fuel pressure readings and go from there.
 
Hopefully I will have the gauge in line by this afternoon so I will have a better idea what is going on.
 
Yes you will want to see about 30 psi. When fuel pressure starts dropping through the mid 20s and below you start seeing lack of power. Down through the teens its a real dog and any lower it wont run for chit!
 
farmboy3510 said:
Last night I got my truck timed (again) and today when I fired it up it seemed to run better. Then I drove it and it didn't seem to have any power, no boost, in general it ran like crap. Then I noticed a leak on my return line somewhere on the back of the head, would this have anything to do with truck having no power and not running right? Then I talked to the guy at Aeromotive today and he informed me that my pump will not pull the fuel out of the tank that I have to put a fitting in the bottom of the tank so gravity will help supply enough fuel. So now I am wondering if the pump is going to work at all. So I put a fuel pressure gauge in front of pump to see what it is doing. How much pressure should I have to get good power? Sorry for the long story, just starting to doubt if it is ever going to run right. Thanks for all of the help in advance.
Click to expand...

aeromotive A-1000? I have a draw straw fed 1000 with no fuel pressure issues. Been like that for a LONG time.
 
Just checked the fuel pressure, it is at 50-60psi even at WOT. So I do not thin that the lift pump is the problem. What should be the next thing that I should check? I found the leak in the return line but I don't think that would affect the power would it? I keep looking into it.
 
Is it still white smoking? Is it missing? Does it not make any boost at all?

Give us some more details on how it is running. You should have plenty of supply pressure to the pump. Almost too much.

The return line leaking shouldnt have anything to do with being down on power. It can however, make the truck hard to start.

Give us some more detail, and maybe we can help ya out.

Eric
 
I went back and started reading all of the posts trying to find out what I did wrong and I discovered I definatly did. When I indicated the motor at TDC I did that right and I pinned the pump I did that right but when the pump is pinned the pump is set at 14 deg. I thought the pump was at zero. So then i set the deg. wheel to 20 deg. wich gave me 34 deg. of timing. So I tore it all back apart again indicated everything back in and move the deg wheel 6 deg. to give me a total of 20. I did not get it all put back together tonight I'll have to get it in the morning. Thanks for all of the great help.
 
I would think you have noticed the timing set that far... Maybe different with a 24V head.. tinney sounding @ idle.. hard to describe.. but if you have heard a few it makes sense... Maybe not run so good down low.. but come alive once you got some rpms on it... (sorry I didn't look at your sig about your truck..) but it can also be hard on head gaskets..
Hopefully the timing will fix your problem.
Bryan

Edit:.. I see you have an O-ringed head.. and studs.. should be ok then..
 
JDGnut said:
I would think you have noticed the timing set that far...

Maybe different with a 24V head..

tinney sounding @ idle..

hard to describe..

but if you have heard a few it makes sense...

Maybe not run so good down low..

but come alive once you got some rpms on it...
Click to expand...

loud as hell?

both under the hood and out the pipe

i love it!

never been past 22°

can not imagine 32°

if i were you after you set it i would double check it with a dial ind to see the lift @ tdc

just to be sure
 
I wouldnt go past 21 with ddp injectors. I was way out at 22. DDPS liked 20 in my truck. Have a custom set of winspeed injectors and Im still in the bowl at 29
 
I got the truck ready to start and realized that I broke the homemade bolts for the intake horn so now I am waiting for the bolts to get in at Fastenal.
 
Yeah I finally got it running last night. Now that the timing is set at 20deg. instead of 34deg. it actually starts, and doesn't billow all of the white smoke. (I'm an idiot) I did have a fuel leak on the new lines but discovered at some point that I scratched the connector tubes where they seal. So I had to put them in the lathe and polish them smooth again. After that they sealed up. Now I just have to finish getting my kill switch on and I will be in good shape. I drove it about 20 mi. last night and it seems to run real good so far. The biggest difference is the truck will not rev over 3k as where the vp would rev 3300 to 3400. I talked to Columbus diesel yesterday and the said that they have a 5k spring that is adjustable down to 3500rpm but I will have the extra when I want it. They told me that they get $175.00 for the kit. I don't know if that is a good deal or not? What is everyone else running for a spring? I do not have my valves springs changed yet, so I don't really want to go over 3500 -3600 rpm until I get them changed but still would like to have the extra 500 r's. What is your guys thought's on it?
 
I've got 4K springs in mine at 5 clicks and it hits 4K and keeps pulling, seems to me you could just get 4K's and run them a little loose and you should be fine till you get new valve springs.
 
I would just go with 4k's probably unless you are strictly pulling. 4k's are pretty good springs.

Good to hear that you got it running right. Dont beat yourself up over it. We have all been there and done that. Just learn from it and it wont happen to you again!

Eric
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top