The truth about oil

she_strokes04

she_strokes04

Diesel TV Host
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Messages
288
Ok tried to do a search on TDIClub and didn't want to put up with the drama that the website seems to have. I know you guys all own pick-ups also and won't bull$hit me.

We run Schaeffers 9000 in all three of the Fords and as most of you know 6.0's can be hard on oils. I bought my car through a private seller so no warranty. I plan on doing an oil change in about 3000 miles so I want to know what to do. Its going to be 80,000. Should I take it to VW to have a FULL service (oil, tranny, blah blah blah) done or should I wait till 90,000? Can I run 9000 in it? It would make things a whole hell of a lot easier. I can get Amsoil if I absolutely need to. I'm not worried about VW getting mad, I'm worried about my car running the best it can and lasting. Unless its something stupid crazy, VW won't be touching my car for repairs. That's what I have Matt for.

Thanks guys!
 
For the service, yes, take it to the dealer for the tranny if nothing else. Beyond that? So long as your chosen oil meets the specs required, run it.
 
Engine oil specs are very important, I destroyed the cam and lifters in my '96 TDI because I ran Shell Rotella oil. Look in your owner/service manual, you'll see that the euro spec is 505.01 or 507.00, any full synthetic 5w40 that meets spec will be fine. I prefer Schaeffer's.
 
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Oil

What Billy said just make sure it has the right rating and your good to go.
I cant remember if 06 TDI have the same issue with the cam wearing the lobes off might be something to look into.

My own personal opioion is stay far far far away from scamsoil. :stab:

Schaffers makes a good oil. I personal use 5w40 Rotella in all my diesel. Manly because it easy to get no matter where you are.

As for TDIClub I can hardly read anything over there with out shaking my head. You have 1% of the people that will work on cars and do it right and the other 99% say you need to replace the hole motor when your doing an oil change because that what the read online.:redx:

Mike
 
i made an appointment for next monday to have the dealer do the oil change on our 10 tdi sportwagen... i did ask if they intended to use diesel rated oil, or the bulk stuff they put in everything.... they seemed pretty offended.. but i will be checking what they try to put in on monday........
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
IMO Amsoil is the best choice in oil ...For any engine or lubricated component!
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I used to agree. My truck runs a lot better on Schaeffers.

LReiff said:
Engine oil specs are very important, I destroyed the cam and lifters in my '96 TDI because I ran Shell Rotella oil. Look in your owner/service manual, you'll see that the euro spec is 505.01 or 507.00, any full synthetic 5w40 that meets spec will be fine. I prefer Schaeffer's.
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Ok so on the Schaeffer's website I see that 9000 5W-50 and 5W-40 are 505.01 compatible. 50 is the racing oil and we use 40 in the pick-ups. Is there a benifet to one or the other? I will probably use the 40 if not since we buy in bulk for the Fords. Now what about filters? Do I need to go to VW??
 
Just get a quality filter, WIX, Baldwin and the like, I would stay away from Fram. With the change interval, using VW filters is not cost prohibitive and if it makes you feel a bit better, do it.
 
the 40 should be just fine unless you plan on regularly thrashing it, under extreme ambient conditions. like death valley, or taking it to the salt flats
 
I prefer Mann oil filters for the TDI. Mann is a german aftermarket manufacture.
 
turbom700 said:
What Billy said just make sure it has the right rating and your good to go.

My own personal opioion is stay far far far away from scamsoil. :stab:
Click to expand...

Mikes first paragraph is good info, and I agree with Billy,also. Then he takes a cheap shot (maybe its just his poor spelling, no shot intended?)and people wonder how oil wars and drama gets started.

My personal opinion is to use Amsoil in everything that is worth keeping, and or extreme duty.

I would honestly like to know how shestroke04 determined her truck runs better on Schaeffers, not to start a war, but just out of curiosity.
 
I used to run Amsoil, but the OA's were coming back not to favorable(not horrible but my drain interval was not 15K+). I switched to Schaeffers 9000 and not only did my cost per oil change go down, but I can run longer drain intervals and achieve a level of protection equal to or better than amsoil. I pay like $23 a gallon for 9000(5W-40 Full syn) and amsoil is like $35 with shipping (there 5W-40 Full Syn). Granted I have a 6.0L and they are pretty rough on oil.
 
Spectre32 said:
. I pay like $23 a gallon for 9000(5W-40 Full syn) and amsoil is like $35 with shipping (there 5W-40 Full Syn). .
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After comparing the TDS on both, I don't think you can go wrong on the S 9000 for the money.$12 a gallon adds up in a hurry.
 
Hey, I'm late to the party but I saw this and I thought I'd pour a couple more oils into the pot...

Mobil 1 TDT is a "non-approved" oil that has been tested in tdis and is very very good. Sometimes you can find it on sale at Walmart, Meijer's, or similiar for $20 a gallon... it's worth stocking up at that price!

TDT is not a "real" 5-40 in the cold... it should really be labeled "8-40" because the cold weather viscosity doesn't quite compete with a good european spec 5-40. In my opinion, these little motors really need the oil to flow well when it's cold out. So, while I'm tight with a buck and use TDT during the spring-fall, I will use either Mobil 1 0-40 European car formula ($$$) or Redline 0-40 ($$$$$$$!!!) in the winter time. I start it up a lot when it's 0 deg F and I consider these fancy oils to be a form of insurance. Besides, a good 0-40 will work in all weather and you can run it for up to 10,000mi, (as long as you add more, duh:D)

I also run an oil bypass filter <-(click for link) The bypass setup allows you to drive 25-30K highway miles without changing your oil. (You still have to add oil, it's an "oil burner")
 
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