Thoughts on trac bars?

hainesboy

hainesboy

Tech in training
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
51
Alright, so i've done some searching without much luck so i'm going to ask our guys opinions. I'm planning on putting trac bars on my dodge but have no clue what style to use. I have seen many styles but dont know the advantage differences between the short, bolt on styles or the super-long eye bolt style. I will be towing regularly by next fall. My HP goal is between 400-500hp with room for wiggle. Any recommendations? either purchased or fabricated because I have a solid fabrication background.
 
Use links/shackles at the front of the bar if you are concered about ride quality.
 
Ive thought about using tractor top links (heim joints) to make a set and can pull on and off quick.
 
90dodge said:
Ive thought about using tractor top links (heim joints) to make a set and can pull on and off quick.
Click to expand...

That's how I did mine, they were kinda noisy but other than that they were fine.
If you're going this route you need jam nuts for the links or you'll pull the threads out of the tube.


Posted while changing the glow plugs in my cummings.
 
Schrowang said:
That's how I did mine, they were kinda noisy but other than that they were fine.
If you're going this route you need jam nuts for the links or you'll pull the threads out of the tube.


Posted while changing the glow plugs in my cummings.
Click to expand...

Thats the way I built mine, should be fine if its just for street use. I bought the brackets from jamie at CPP, but made bars myself... I didnt use jam nuts, but mine are also threaded almost all the way in on each end.
 
I'm in the process of building mine and I'm putting a heim joint in the front and back of the bar. If you check on the McMaster-Carr website, you can get some really heavy duty joint, you will just need a coupler nut to have something to weld to.
 
I ran fixed bars on the street and hated them. They were noisy, creaked and popped from binding. Had to adjust preload if towing. I have everything now to build ladder bars with a pivoting front mount, similar to Glaciers bars

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Thanks guys. Keep me posted on the bars you build homewrecker and if you like them. I think that will be the way I go. What size tubing are you using?
 
I ran solid joints on the street and never once had a creak or pop. No noise at all. I loved them.
 
Ive got the cpp bars. They work really well. I went with the shorter bars, would have went longer to do over. Then again I would probably buold my own with poly bushings to do over.
 
Came to the thread wondering about locating a front axle.... found out OP was referring to controlling rear wheel hop


Homewrecker, for the win.
 
Hurley said:
Came to the thread wondering about locating a front axle.... found out OP was referring to controlling rear wheel hop


Homewrecker, for the win.
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Bless you. Trac bar= front axle. Traction bars= rear axle.
 
I believe you can use a 4 link calculator for setting up a drag car suspension or offroad truck suspension

Thats what I plan on doing with my truck, need to get a locker first though
 
longer is better for towing. shorter = rougher ride overall. had both on mine. mine is built like the lazar ones. no noise at all with tractor links.
 
You guys saying no noise must be driving on flat ground 24/7. With my bars preloaded any uneven ground that led to articulation of the rear end caused a bind with popping and creaking. I don't see how this is unavoidable with fixed bars. For the record mine were Lazar bars.

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maybe you don't have enough oil leaks to keep yours quiet? no really, Mine don't make noise, and I do take it off pavment now and then.
 
Don't use tractorheim joints, get the ones that people use on their jeeps to four link them they are way stronger than the tractor ones they are overall thicker by the eyelet and can handle more abuse
 
1995 cummins said:
Don't use tractorheim joints, get the ones that people use on their jeeps to four link them they are way stronger than the tractor ones they are overall thicker by the eyelet and can handle more abuse
Click to expand...

More abuse? Weve used a 1000lb post driver, carried more than enough wet ton bales, as well as many other things and never had a problem out of one on our smaller tractor.
 
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