Timing questions..

wpeschel

wpeschel

Psyko
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
872
Well I'm getting ready to do the final retorque on my head and put my ddpIII's back in the truck... I will be bumping my timing to 22 from 20 and need to know the mm of lift, it is a 887 215 pump?? What is the best way to make sure the shaft and gear are clean from all oil, without pulling the front cover?? Thanks in advance Wesley
 
teddybear said:
On the 215pump 20degrees should be 6.4mm of lift.
Click to expand...

Ok good that is what we set it at last time.... We were going off of Pdr's website... I remember seeing a post a while back that was totally different than theirs.. So 22 degrees should be 6.8 right???
 
Cleaning the shaft/gear area: I've always had good luck with a can of brake cleaner and a flexible tube to squirt the cleaner between the shaft and gear. At some autoparts store a few years ago I found an extension for brake and carb cleaner consisting of about 8 inches of tiny vinyl tubing and a short section of the same rigid tube that comes with the cleaner. I stuck that on the end of another cleaner tube and use that. Use a gear puller bolt screwed in to one of the holes in the gear to move the gear in and out while you point the tube between the shaft and gear as someone else presses the button on the can.

Then blow the cleaner out with compressed air (not too high of pressure). Move the gear around with the bolt as you blast the air.

Do this cleaning process 3 times.

I've never had one slip with this technique.

-Jay
 
Do like he said then torq. the nut to 160 and you should be fine.. NOT the 144 that the book calls for.
 
I do the same as above but use electrical parts cleaner, leaves no residue (all the brake cleaners I have tried did leave some) and you can just spray the bottle while it is upside down. I use a lot of cleaner when I do mine so I usually change the oil afterwards...
 
How bout 20, 22, and 24 degrees for a 913 215hp pump, what's the mm lift for that?
 
Smokem said:
Nick, try 6.4mm for now.
Click to expand...

Will do! Question, I read something on pumps that come from different shops may in fact have different mm lift values for timing then pumps that came with the truck stock? Is this true or are the lift values pretty universal?
 
Smokem said:
That would only matter if you were pinning the pump and using a damper measure to set timing.
Click to expand...

Ok, just wanted to make sure. I guess when the plunger reaches a certain value specific to each pump then that's when the injector pops? As always thanks man!!!
 
The inj. pop is set in the inj.
I to am up in the air on my timing. I had so much trouble with it slipping back when i set this motor up that ive finally got it set and not slipping and hate to mess with it. It is set at .232" or 21* right now and power seems great but cooling flat sucks, i want to take advise from a few others and further increase timing to see if it would really take care of the high egts but not at the expense of a HG if its really a serious poss. of hurting it due to the increased cyl. pressure. And some say the added timing keeps the heat in the piston longer due to the longer burn, i can see that theory also. Point is: Power is good just want the timing for the better cooling, my M/W setup does not seem to do much, its not very impressive to say the least.
 
My w/m doest start cooling until I have had it on for a 5 or 6 seconds. Pulling a hill I turn it on and the power comes up and then the temps go down then my tank goes empty.

When it starts cooling the turbos go from a whistle to a hush noise.
 
Thats funny, and i see what your saying but by that 6-7 sec. range im done and have covered the race track. From what your saying, i will try bringing it on Much sooner and see if i can get a head of it some, or if it trys to put out the fire? I think the Start press. starts at like 5 psi or so, the earliest i think ive tryed bringing it on was like 20 and full on by 25-30. Whats the earliest some of yall bring your water on at? I have 3 625's plumbed in but thier valved seperate so i can choose wich ones to run, my exper. so far has showed it to miss fire all the way down the track if all 3 is on, and run fine if only 2 are used but really no drop in temps, its still going to touch 1800-1850 right at the 1/8.?? I can see this system being better for towing, i Will try it comming On sooner and see what happens though... Thanks Ryan
 
stock600 said:
Thats funny, and i see what your saying but by that 6-7 sec. range im done and have covered the race track. From what your saying, i will try bringing it on Much sooner and see if i can get a head of it some, or if it trys to put out the fire? I think the Start press. starts at like 5 psi or so, the earliest i think ive tryed bringing it on was like 20 and full on by 25-30. Whats the earliest some of yall bring your water on at? I have 3 625's plumbed in but thier valved seperate so i can choose wich ones to run, my exper. so far has showed it to miss fire all the way down the track if all 3 is on, and run fine if only 2 are used but really no drop in temps, its still going to touch 1800-1850 right at the 1/8.?? I can see this system being better for towing, i Will try it comming On sooner and see what happens though... Thanks Ryan
Click to expand...

What do you have for injectors and turbos?
 
I think that you might be dumping too much fuel without a fire started yet. we have pretty close to the same setup and at a wot run with my water off my pyro hits arrout 1800 at about 110mph. there is a sweet spot in the petal where my power is all there and the temps arent too bad but if i go much further the power is just about the same then the temps and smoke start rolling. same from a pre boost conditions if i mash the go petal with no boost buitl up, i roll smoke and never clear it, temps are up and powers down. recently i pulled my lazer cuts and tuned the afc housing and went back to 181's didnt see much difference in temps but alot in smoke. bassically it boils down to put as much fuel in as you have air for the rest is waset at an expense. have you run it since you put the Inter cooler in yet?
 
Yes i have but it wasnt apples to apples compairasion because that fri. my new edm'ed .093 holders came in and of course i changed them out right before we loaded up to go to the track. So... im wondering or thinking the extra fuel got me again on temps. I could tell it was really going to run hard but shatered another tranny that night also. Just on a easy motor pass with the plate dead in the middle, it "only" hit around 1400 i believe, and the same type of pass but with the water on it maybe did 1350 but went 2 tenths slower???? Later i got ready for a real pass, i armed 2 nozzles with ice water only, and a .32 jet of nitrous, and left on the trans brake, it hit super hard off the line 1.4xx, it make the 1-2 shift good but in the 2-3 shift it grenaded? I glanced at the pyro and it was all of 1850+..... and this is still with the 181's? It did use a good bit of water on that pass, 1/3 or so of the cantainer the kit came with. I started it at 20 psi and full on around 25-30? I need to try bringing it on sooner i think. I fiqured this Huge cooler would of made more diff. and i know its effic. by feeling the 2 sides after a run. And you said yours gets to around 1800+ at around 110mph, on a hard fueled run mine is there by nearly half track approx. 330' and prob. no more than 50-60 mph. I know its all fuel timing and "how" its brought in but,.. when i slow it down I Slow Way Down To, and that aint good in racing, mine seems to run its best with all the fuel up front Now, but its to damn hot.
 
is your turbo lit befor its fueling hard? when i had my lc's in running down the road and mashed the petal it would go but ran much hotter than if i eased it up to 10 or 15#'s of boost before i mashed it(which is all of a second). my plates full foreward and tuning the afc housing helped alot to lessen the massive fuel before boost comes on. but with an auto and a trans brake you should be boost launching.
 
aksparkey01 said:
is your turbo lit befor its fueling hard?

Kind of, w/o the spray it could be better though, id say it rolls out pretty hard about 40 feet and then bam it lites hard. With a tiny amount of spray on the ol WOT switch life is good, it makes all the diff. It seems to be in the 1.6xx range on the motor the way the afc is tuned and 1.4xx with a .52 jet. This is leaving fairly hard for a 4k truck in my opinion. I forgot, the last trip out i did remove the foot in the afc all together for 2 passes and besides a little more smoke getting up on the convertor it didnt seem any more laggy to me? Acually it might would be the way to go if one was going to spray it every pass? I didnt though i was simply exper. to see how much harder it would fuel than the light spring, adj. loosely, and full forward, really it didnt seem all that much diff. Also ive wondered if my wot switch might not work so well if i leaned out the bottom end to much? Ive heard to many people talk of the dreaded nitrous backfire, wich ive never exper. in this application it's always hit just right so far, i was really hopeing the CAC would give me a decant saftey cushion so i could try my FC's again. Not there yet. BTW i did get another tranny delivered this evening so i'll get some more testing in this sat. night. Water in earlier, nitrous on each pass but much less of it, just for cooling purposes, is where i guess i'll start. More boost might also be the ticket, ive been running this thing very conserv. i have the boost set at 40 lbs. i need to call Dave and ask again where this turbo is going out of its map, i cant remember do you? He said it came set at 45 but at the time i set the motor up i had the FC's in along with that damn near pluged off brass 90* elboe that these turbos came with, heck just jumping on it 3/4 throttle would peg the 60# boost guage in a second. I replaced it with a reg. open 90* brass elboe and then i could tune the pressure w/ the 1/2" nut on the WG arm, it still did 55lbs or so just because of the FC's, so id say they add around 10psi or so due to all the fuel. I adj. down to 40 and its been that way for a while, power is fine as it is now but if more air is whats needed as long as its cool and in the compressors map i'll dial in some more. I know i'll have to keep an eye on it when i spray it though, im sure the boost will rise when on the spray? I'll have to keep that in mind..... later Ryan
Click to expand...
 
stock600 said:
Thats funny, and i see what your saying but by that 6-7 sec. range im done and have covered the race track. From what your saying, i will try bringing it on Much sooner and see if i can get a head of it some, or if it trys to put out the fire? I think the Start press. starts at like 5 psi or so, the earliest i think ive tryed bringing it on was like 20 and full on by 25-30. Whats the earliest some of yall bring your water on at? I have 3 625's plumbed in but thier valved seperate so i can choose wich ones to run, my exper. so far has showed it to miss fire all the way down the track if all 3 is on, and run fine if only 2 are used but really no drop in temps, its still going to touch 1800-1850 right at the 1/8.?? I can see this system being better for towing, i Will try it comming On sooner and see what happens though... Thanks Ryan
Click to expand...

I run the 2-625ml injectors aith a 220psi pump. The power is instant but the cooling effects dont show for a few seconds. I dont race , except ricers, since I have a 5 speed in a 1 ton dually that weighs in at 8500 pounds so all my info is from stop light to stop light and pulling trailers.

My w/mhas never drowned the fire at wot but if it is set to low it did at lower boost and part throttle.
 
I made it last night and again saw poor results from the kit! Right off the trailer i slid the plate in the middle and made a motor Only pass of 7.81 at 94.xx mph, second pass i left the fuel alone but armed the water syatem, the 2 625's on the int. side. I had the start for 10 and full on by 15, it ran 50* hotter and 1 tenth slower? It went a 7.9x at 93.xx mph, both passes were 1.9x 60' ers it just wouldnt get up on the turbo last night on the motor. I armed the new nitrous set-up with it split on both sides of the CAC and went to make a Good pass, while staging a guy from the fence noticed some water dripping and let me know. Ended up being a pin hole leak started in this brand new radiator? I loaded it up for the night. That tiny little nit. hit doea wonders for spooling a big single, i fiqured it would have gone a high 6 on the next pass. I am seriously thinking of the original topic of this thread and putting more timing in it to see how it does for the egt's. The W/M system does nothing for me in this truck so far, temps or power.?.
Also noticed it had a taller flame out of the pipe last night than normal, it ran hard on the motor once the turbo lite.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top