To block or not to block? Having wheel hop issues

R

R.C.inc.

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Oct 28, 2008
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Ok first pull of the season I have very bad wheel hop. I said it was due to, too low air pressure and a bad track. Not only change pressure but changed tires. and still have hop. I can't even make it 10ft without hop. I was told the first if I would have brought it out harder I would have pulled through it. So this time I brought her out as hard as I could, Broke all 4 tires loose right away and then she starts hoping. Only thing I changed since last year was susp. blocks. They have 2" travel. I also added 2 plys to my rear leafs. Which honestly I think is not helping. I added 2 leafs the same size. They are both add a leaf kits. I think the double arce is too much which is making the rear have more spring. Last year before the blocks but after the leafs it had a lot of bounce to it, but didn't have wheel hop probably cuz the springs took it.
I'm thinking I need to change the leafs. But also wondering if I should do away with the blocks.
Any opinions out there??
Anyone have a set of 1 ton leafs for a commonrail dodge I can buy lol
Anyone know whats different with the 1 ton springs? Just more plys?
 
Keep the blocks, do something with the spring pack sounds like.

If it's blocked, you might as well set the springs back to stock.
 
Keep it blocked rigid.
Hang as much wieght as you can out front
Higher air pressure in the rear tires
Make sure your traction bars are up to the task.
 
With the softer springs.. its just going to sit down on the blocks right away.. the stiffer springs may be holding you off the block at the start.. (yes, you're going to give up 2in of hitch heigth.. ) but at least it will take the springs out of the equation.. for the most part..
Good Luck..
Bryan
 
I added the leafs to hold more weight but I also did it to lift it up some too. I just think that since the addaleaf kits are made to make it sit higher putting 2 of those springs in did me over.
I have a 2.5" spacer on the front so I need to back to stay higher so it looks right
 
Block it solid, and unless your frame is flexing or something, I bet your problems are gone. Unless the rules state you have to have 2" of travel, there is no need to have the travel at all and it will only hurt you.

Eric
 
rules are 1"
I went with 2" just because I with the rear sitting up higher I wanted it to come down a little so the drive shaft angle was so much. I think hang weights would help but I can run weights everywhere I pull.
I think im gonna end up taking the blocks out and changing the leafs. Maybe taking out the add a leafs and adding plys with the same arc as stock ones
 
I think it was my springs. I took the extra leafs out and am running the stock springs only. Blocked to 1" My reason for taking that idea was I was thinking that the springs where too stiff it didn't hit the blocks right and then would bounce and then hit blocks hard and bounce harder. I took the skid loader and push down on my hitch till the tires on loader where off ground. The blocks didn't even hit the axle.
Hopefully that fixes it.
 
Should be a step in the right direction I think. Its always best to have the rear end against the blocks when you are pulling IMO.

Eric
 
Do you have a video of it? Try to get one from the side close enough to see what it's doing. Matt's wife Sue got a good video of mine a few years ago and it helped a lot. Coming out harder with more wheel speed will help.
 
you can lower your front air pressure down to 18 or so and 40 or so in the rear depending on the track condtions, but that's your call as I have no experience with tracks back east, but with loose tracks you can run these pressures------ I do know about wheel hop--leave the blocks in at 1" and if you don't have traction/ladder bars you needed them yesterday--make sure they are made of DOM or chrome moly and make them as long as possible--mine are 8' long--attach to the frame and the bottom of the axle---your problems will be gone--removing the stiff springs so that you sit on the blocks was smart, but you need ladder bars if you don't have them and that can't be said enuff....chris
 
what csutton said you do need ladder bars you can even do them with short ones on top and long ones on the bottom, that is the way one truck is set up that I work on a little and it never bounces
 
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