Traction bar idea

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xtremexj

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Joined
Aug 1, 2007
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Anyone ever try a Lakewood style slapper bar? I was looking at some of the styles they offer for the 1/2 tons and thought it wouldn't be too hard to make them for a diesel. I've got a prototype partially together and hoping to test in the next couple of days. I might not finish before this Friday's race so I might try clamping the springs for that event.
 
Come on guys, all you hard core drag racers and nobody has any thoughts?
 
klincoln said:
stops wheel hop
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Yeah, I already new that.:thankyou2: I guess I should make my question more specific. Everybody goes on about full-floating styles like the Caltracs. What I am trying to see is if anyone has used a style similar to Lakewood's as it is also some what of a full-floating design.
 
Honestly, I think the caltrac design is much better, slappey bars(traction bars) are cool on 350 HP street cars with sloppy rear suspensions, but our trucks need a ladder bar IMO
 
clamp the springs and be done with it works great,just clamp the front of the springs though
 
bones said:
clamp the springs and be done with it works great,just clamp the front of the springs though
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Why only the front? Doesn't the front of the axle rotate upwards and it would be more beneficial to clamp the rear so it can't flex the springs down? I'm still trying to figure this suspension stuff out.
 
bones said:
clamp the springs and be done with it works great,just clamp the front of the springs though
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How tightly should they be clamped? Tip of overload touching the main pack or within a couple of inches?
 
Mine are pulled down tight in the front, the front didn't make sense to me either at the time but that is what everyone said to do. And let me tell you, it made a WORLD OF DIFFERENCE on my little truck! Took out 99% of my wheel-hop and helped traction tremendously on my 2wd. Definately worth the $5 in materials for a simple starter-suspension upgrade.
 
clampded tight in the front ,think of how the axle moves when you kick it,we dont clamp the back becaus it makes the springs too hard
 
bones said:
clampded tight in the front ,think of how the axle moves when you kick it,we dont clamp the back becaus it makes the springs too hard
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Thanks. I'm no rookie to vehicles and totally understand how the wrap works - I sell suspension lifts for a living so I am pretty well versed. I just was curious as to how tight to clamp the front of the pack. I'll see how that works tomorrow night as a start.
 
no axle movement part was for joe farmer,hope this helps...
 
bones said:
no axle movement part was for joe farmer,hope this helps...
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Nope, I understood - sorry if I came off a little snappy. It was one of those days yesterday and my responses were a little short.:poke:
 
I think I understand now. I'm still learning chassis setup, thanks for being gentle with me. :)
 
It should work, although a lot of the serious slapper bar guys would use big sockets or something instead of snubbers, for strength and zero flex. also you have to be very careful to get the bars adjusted exactly the same or it will pitch your truck to the left or right. I'll be interested to see how they work!
 
JQmile said:
It should work, although a lot of the serious slapper bar guys would use big sockets or something instead of snubbers, for strength and zero flex. also you have to be very careful to get the bars adjusted exactly the same or it will pitch your truck to the left or right. I'll be interested to see how they work!
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I've got poly snubbers so there should be no give.:Cheer: However, the bars will be put on hold for the moment as my drill press took a dump on me the other night and I won't have time to pick one up for a week or so.
 
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