Traction bars

R

rshort

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Jul 29, 2006
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Great Lakes Diesel Works (lsfarm) traction bars. Silver bars, powdercoated black mounting plates. Used about 5k miles. $300 + shipping.
Ryan
 
Does it matter if they go on a long bed or short bed?? Mine's a long bed!

Any pics? Very interested!
Thanks
Chris
 
Mine were on a long bed, QC. I'll get some pics later this evening.
Ryan
 
Here are the instructions. Didn't take long at all.
First inspect your ‘U-bolts’ and the amount of threads protruding from the retaining nuts on the bottom of the axle. You need at least ¾” -1” of threads. If your truck has less than this, you need to loosen the Ubolts, remove one or more spacers between the Ubolts and retighten the retaining nuts, this will gain you enough threads to mount the axle plate. Full strength is obtained when the threads in the axle plate retaining nuts are full or all in use. Or stated another way, full strength is obtained when the Ubolt end is flush or protruding from the retaining nut.

Install the axle plate with the provided 14mm nuts with large washers if enough threads are available.

Thread the Heim Joints with jamb nuts into the control bar, only thread in about 3/4”, this leaves about 3/4” for shortening the bar. When the bars are installed you will be tightening the bars to shorten them, pulling the bottom of the axle forward. This pretensions the leaf spring reducing or eliminating the rebound of the spring.

With the Heim joints and jamb nuts installed, temporarily install the bars into the axle plate, and install the frame mount plate on the front end of the control bar. Using a jack if available or an assistant to hold the mount in place, drill the front hole for the frame mount using a ½” drill. It may be easier to mark the spot with a ½” drill, then pre drill the hole with a ¼” drill followed by the ½” . It is important that the truck be on the ground [weight on rear axle] for the proper location of the front mounting plate. If the plate is mounted too far back the bars can’t be tightened enough to properly pretension the rear axle.

NOTES on DRILLING. The right side frame rail is open and unobstructed. But the left or driver’s side frame rail is obstructed by the fuel tank. It is recommended to drop or loosen the fuel tank to make the access to the frame easier. The installation can be done without removing the fuel tank. If you have a fuel gauge sender problem or are installing a FASS or any other work on the top of the tank do the control bar installation at the same time.
A plastic drill guide or drill stop is provided to be installed over your ½” drill bit. This is to reduce the chances that the drill bit will go too deep and nick or cut the brake lines, or the wiring that is inside the left frame rail, and not easily seen with the fuel tank in place.
Just install the plastic tube over the drill bit leaving about 1” of bit extending; you can cut the plastic with a saw.

MAKE SURE you are drilling in the center of the frame rail. Since the threaded plate that goes inside the frame rail is properly sized for the inside of the frame, there is not much room for error for the hole location. If the hole is off from left to right, a round file can be used to open up the hole to get the mounting bolt threaded into the threaded reinforcing plate.

Once the front hole is drilled remove the front frame mounting bracket from the control bar, insert a bolt in the front hole, locating the mount on the frame clamp or hold in place and drill the rear hole using the same caution for items inside the left frame rail.

Install the front control bar mounts on the frame using the ½” grade 8 bolts provided, Threading the bolts into the inside reinforcing plates YOU MUST use the reinforcing plate, if you damage the treads just drill out the hole and use a nut instead. Make sure these are tight, and check that they stay tight !! It is recommended to check them every few months.

Install the control bars using the provided bolts and self locking nuts and tighten securely.

Next loosen the jamb nuts and turn the bars to shorten the overall length of the bar and joints. Shorten one bar first, and then go to the opposite side then back to the first one, each time you will get another turn or so. There is no set amount of pretension to put on the rear axle, but about ½” seems to be a good starting point. Tighten the jamb nuts

Tighten all fasteners again and check after a test drive or two. Recheck every month or two or every oil change. It is recommended that some kind of retaining strap is installed on the front of the control bars. A strap is required for DHRA drag racing. A long Zip-Tie or two going through an existing hole in the frame side rail is often used.

If you get some rattling over bumps you need to shorten the bars more, adding more pretension.

You will notice much less rear axle ‘dance’ over railroad tracks, and bumpy roads
Enjoy!!!
 
Thanks!

I'm gonna kick it around a little! I'm interested, but if anyone else want them, by all means, sell them!

I'll let you know!
Chris
 
Signature600 said:
Thanks!

I'm gonna kick it around a little! I'm interested, but if anyone else want them, by all means, sell them!

I'll let you know!
Chris
Click to expand...
:evil:

brnadon.
 
That's why they have credit cards....Wait, man that sounds just like a woman :doh: No offense to anyone:hehe:
Ryan
 
That's why I won't buy anything I can't write a check for when the CC bill comes...because my Sister is one of those people who do that, and it's retarded to pay those people that much money!

I'll probably end up building a set...but it would have probably been cheaper to buy yoursLOL LOL
Chris
 
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