Turning new ic boots into hotdog buns

Fozo

Fozo

It's a good idea
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
36
After installing a quality set of twins (64 over 475) and new ic boots, I had an issue of ripping the boot in half on the top charger. I chained the motor down and had a strap built from the turbo to the piping. This solved that problem boot from blowing. I now have a problem with the passenger side 90* boot into the ic. It likes to rip on the long side from clamp to clamp and turn itself into a hot dog bun. The boots are rated for 150psi. I've been informed this is happening from heat and I need dual pumps. I have flux 3's and an airdog165, Stock cp3. Max boost pressure is 85psi. My questions are,

how do I stop blowing this boot,

Why are my charged air temps high if my engine temp isn't and my egt's only hit 1500 and back down to 1350, (how do I cool it down)

My rp gauge is at 25k at wot, this doesn't seem right. It's soldered into the factory rp sensor.

Thanks in advance.
 
Waste Gate? Personally, if the secondary is gated then I would have the gate open sooner.. High boost does not always mean higher HP.. Installation of compounds is easy, tuning will take awhile.. Read "Tuning Twins" in the tech area, lots of good info..
 
Only use straight boots, the 90 silicone bends have to much area exposed to heat. On my straight boots I leave as little exposed to the air as I can.
 
Thanks guys. My wastegate is set so the primary runs at 28psi and the secondary doing the rest. I will definatly read that before my next post on this. Also that's a good idea on the piping. I could weld a 90 on there easily!
 
As said, straight boots are always better. Use metal for the bends.

Another question...what brand of boots are you using? I found several chinese/foreign brands claim higher ratings than they actually hold.

--Eric
 
The heat that is in question is the heat of the compressed charge-air inside the boots, not in the engine bay.

- The typical boot is reinforced with polyester cording. It's rated to 350*F. Quite often, the charge air exiting the turbo(s) well exceeds 350*F. With that, the cording fails thus the boots rip. Even with multiple layers of cording.


When you get tired of it, you might consider stepping up to Kevlar (or similar) reinforced boots. The Kevlar type stuff is rated to 500*F. There are even boots reinforced with stainless steel rings every inch or so.

Just saying . . . . ;)
 
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Bc847 exactly, i need a set of these you speak of. The boots on my truck now are high quality made in America. I appreciate the feedback and will let you know what I come up with.
 
Talk to Troy at BBD the boots they sell are top notch. I was blowing boots left and right and just got a set of his and they are holding.
 
On an 8 second dyno pull we saw temps of 460 deg on the hot side at 60psi!
 
Frozen Boost Cheap 90 degree boots and 90psi. Have over 10,000 miles on them and not a blown one or ripped.
 
On the 2nd Gen trucks I've seen the fender edge rub the boot once the boot is swelled from boost. Make sure there is nothing sharp touching the boot at anytime.
 
Troy at BBD? Wth happened to Brice? LOL

According to their website I'm still sponsored by them. ;)

Haven't heard anything from anyone in over a year.
 
Thermopol boots are what we use at Cummins, compressor outlet temps can run around 480+deg for days on end. They are nylon reinforced and have steel rings on them.
 
JWhite said:
Thermopol boots are what we use at Cummins, compressor outlet temps can run around 480+deg for days on end. They are nylon reinforced and have steel rings on them.
Click to expand...

HotICIn.jpg
 
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