Valet switch

seeker1056

gear head
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
Messages
1,001
What is it, and how is it hooked up?

I read all over the place where they run one to keep fuel down on the street.

Is it something I can make at home?

thanx
Ken
 
Thanks to Chris Mayer he had one on his flatbed and let me tow with it needless to say that is why it was a pig. They laughed at me when I asked why it was so slow.......

Im not to sure either good question!
Brandon
 
I bet when it is on it cuts the boost pressure to the AFC thus not letting the foot move?
Brandon
 
Yup, it cuts boost to the AFC.

On the VE pump, I assume you know where the boost line is that goes from the head to the top of the injection pump. You just put a solenoid valve on there and "voila", the pump acts like it has no boost at all times.
 
It is fun to play with mine under full throttle when I turn on the switch it tack off like a rocket.And I get better MPG with it turned off.you have to set the diafram set screw back to releave presure off of the sping to make it work right.Hope you understand what I'm trying to say.

Dale
 
Rack still has to move to rotate the plungers. Governor moves it. Otherwise you'd be at perpetual idle, no?
 
I have one. Its alright. Its great for when you let someone borrow the truck or take it to the shop. For daily driving is just ok, I have enough self control to stay out of it but I have to flip the switch whenever I want to play.


They are really easy and cheap to make with an air toggle switch from a semi truck parts store.
 
I have one from PDR, but you could make one pretty easy if you wanted.

A lot of people dont know it, but you can do a lot of adjusting to get the truck where you want it in valet(low power) mode. I can make mine absolutely sick to drive to where it sputters because it isnt getting enough fuel when i rev it, or i can make it run pretty decent even in valet. I have mine making 30psi in valet. It still smokes plenty with my tight converter if you mash it out of the hole, but it pulls a trailer great like this and also almost always keeps EGT's under 1200*.

Plus, with an automatic, you can let it eat pulling a trailer, and it keeps line pressure up. Where as in full fuel i dont use near as much pedal to get the same power, which means lower line pressure, and its more likely to slip. Its a good idea for someone that wants to save their transmission.

Eric
 
I don't have any part numbers but all you need is an air toggle switch, a few feed of line, and fittings.

I just took the fitting off the end of the AFC to Fleetpride and me and the parts guy were able to figure out everything else needed. The lines slide into the slitch so I just needed two farrels and matching nuts. I think the total was around $30-40 and most was for the switch.

You only need to connect to the 1/8" port in the head and the fitting on the AFC. Its that simple.

PacBrake's kit uses a solenoid to do the same thing if you know where to find one.
 
Just go get a 1/8" needle valve. Mine was from Blowe's, its a 90* needle valve with a 1/8" NPT male thread on one side and 1/8" compression fitting on the other side (I think).

They are great for lettin' someone else drive, or while taking long trips to help you conserve fuel, pulling trailers is much easier too.
 
I'd use a cheap solenoid from McMaster-Carr, but I have a toggle switch fetish.
 
So basically, the switch just opens to let full fuel and closes to restrict pressure to the AFC? Seems simple enough.

I'm with you on the toggle switches.
 
mcmaster carr #5077t12 12volt is what i'm gunna use then hook it to a y and a needle valve so when on valet mode it still rund decent , not a total dog...
 
got my solenoid 5 min. ago... gunna hook it up tonight i'll let you know how it goes.... i think it's gunna be pretty neat
 
Back
Top