Valve adustment way out of spec

pushlar84

pushlar84

pushlar84
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
658
just got done rebuilding my 01 cummins with a 188/220 cam, pushrods, and hd springs. adjusted valves to .010 and .020, ran it for 5 miles or so, then she started running weird popping out intake. shut it off and pulled valve cover, #6 exhaust bridge was off and all valve were loose. all pushrods are straight. nothing seems bad. torqued head again, adjusted valves and runs great again. can;t believe cam lobes would wear that much that quick. but the onl;y thing i could think of is the bridges bent alittle. they are stock bridges.

has anyone seen this, or thinks i should get billet bridges?

thanks for input
 
Did you maker sure all the rods were properly seated? Mine was off all over the board after approx 100k miles. Haven't had any issues since then. I have the same setup as you except my cam is the 181/210.
 
ya they were definately seated. i dont know how much rpm those bridges are rated for but they so more than 4000. this truck has a 13mm p-pump on it. still dont think they would bend though. maybe break
 
i spin mine to the moon and it has all stock parts but cam and springs

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Push rods were not seated properly to start. No way you had any wear in 5 miles unless you drove it with no oil.
 
Trash from wooden dowels is why we ask you to run it a few miles and re-adjust, another possibility is that the pushrods were not seated correctly. Lastly, if there is an issue with #6 you could have the cam eating into the block. This is usually caused by little or incorrect pre-lube and/or changing the oil at the same time of the cam swap. This can cause the engine to run 15-45 seconds without oil pressure. This is why we ask you to lube the heck out of it, run it for a few minutes and then change the oil after a few minutes, when all of the trash or contaminants from the swap have been suspended in the oil. If you do not do this the cam can run dry, gall the journals and the go to town eating the block. If this is the case #6 will be the worst and get slightly less adjusment issues as you move to the front. If this is happening, the cam will need adjustment every 10-15 minutes of runtime. You probably just had trash from wooden dowels. If you have any questions, feel free to call us anytime.

Zach
 
i had the whole block tore down so no dowels. all the adjustments were about the same not just #6. hopefully the pushrods had to seat or something. or maybe i was one revolution off. the way i adjsut is bring #1 on compression stroke then watch #6 valves until they start to rock then adjust the ones needed. then rotate one revolution until #1 valves rock and adust the rest of the valves
 
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