Want a 6.7 but have questions

semperfidoordie

semperfidoordie

USMC Veteran
Joined
Aug 23, 2009
Messages
226
Disclaimer: I've never owned a Cummins so if my terminology is wrong I apologize and I will learn.

I'm looking for a 6.7 currently and I don't have grand plans for drag racing or sled pulling just a good DD. I've read all the arguments about fire ringing, studding, deleting the EGR/not deleting it, waste gates and all the sort. I'm not looking for speculation, I only want to hear from 6.7 owners/mechs and yes I've used the search function.

Engine/Trans:
Find a 6.7 QCLB 4x4 with a manual tranny
Get an H&S Black Max or Mini-Max (undecided)
Do a full 5" TBE with a muff minus DPF and Cat
Get an S&B intake and an intake horn
Undecided on keeping/deleting the EGR cooler (all the emissions is gone on my dmax but I've seen so many differences in opinion on the 6.7 I'm undecided)
Look into a Southbend or Valair clutch

Appearance/Everything Else:
35s or 37s and associated leveling kit or lift
 
Whoops forgot ARP head studs and to put my question in that post...does the plan I have set out look like a halfway decent route or am I going to be replacing HGs left and right? Also what are the appropriate studs for a daily driven truck like mine will be? For Duramax's we just have one kind as far as I know and those are ARP 625s.
 
if thats all your going to do for mods arp 425's will be just fine and throw a wastegate on it too
 
What about grid heater delete? I see in your sig you have that done but wondered if it's necessary to keep the grid heater as when i get out i'll be moving back to a cold climate. Also what WG would you recommend? I'm not planning on racing it or pulling it at all. i realized with the money I make (military pay) that a built motor and what not (on a Dmax at least) isn't do able and can't afford to break my daily driver on a regular basis. And I've dumped most of the supporting mods to go fast into my dmax but now don't have the money to take it any further haha.
 
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I'd say 425's, and a drive pressure gauge. If you ratio isn't more than 1:1, I'd save money on a WG.
 
That's a pretty good idea. In my duramax I have a DP gauge, EGT and boost. I was thinking about running the H&S solely for it's clean good tunes and monitoring capabilities. However I figure I'd probably have to run a regular DP gauge since that's something most OBD readers don't monitor. Thanks a ton for the help. Anything I've forgot? Also any idea what kind of lift/leveling kit I'd need for 35s? What about 37s?
 
If you are using stock rims, you can fit 35's without a leveling kit. My bro actually ran 37's on his bone stock 2008 3500. They rubbed the control arms. But If you are going to run aftermarket rims, then depending on the offset, you may have to get a level kit to fit 35's
 
I'd wait to buy the truck until efi live for the 6.7 becomes reality.
 
I have a stock 6.7, and I am waiting on the efi live for sure. Keep your eyes open I found mine for a decent deal and I have been really happy with it stock, cant wait to tune it and see what it has.
 
LReiff said:
I'd wait to buy the truck until efi live for the 6.7 becomes reality.
Click to expand...

they have started reading the ecms, as of now, not sure if the flashing process has started yet though, and this was a couple weeks ago, i was going to use my truck for one of the efi live beta testers but he is 2 hours away.
 
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