Water in oil...need some help please

DavisJ1817

DavisJ1817

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Apr 3, 2011
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Recently we pulled a 96 industrial block out of a blue bird bus with the intentions of putting it into a truck and making it a puller. We did a complete rebuild because the motor had a blown head gasket when it was pulled. While we were there, we put in A1 rod bolts, 14mm XL main studs with a gorilla girdle, all the bearings, seals, gaskets ...etc. Everything went smooth and the engine starts and runs well. However, we noticed that about 10-15 minutes after filling the radiator, the oil was slam full of water, and the cylinders were also filled to the point that the motor was hydrolocked. After removing the injectors and spraying the water out of the pistons, the motor would spin again, and it still starts and runs great. So we pulled the head, had it resurfaced (.010" was removed), pressure checked, cleaned, and everything checked out perfectly. Put it back on with the same A1 H11 studs as were used the first time and a new .010" over marine head gasket. Everything torqued to spec. Still the same problem, just as sever as before. The Oil cooler gasked showed some rough spots, so we replaced that as well, and didnt help any at all. The motor has an electric water pump, so excessive pressure shouldnt be the problem. Do any of you all have any ideas on where to go next? There was very little, but still some, oil in the water. Not too much though, but there was a huge amount of water in the oil, and clear water in the cylinders. The more I think about this im leaning toward decking the block, but I am not sure. Any thoughts, suggestions, comments or concerns are appreciated.

*I should also add, that all 6 cylinders are showing the clear water. Im leaning more and more toward decking the block, but just want to get some outside opinion before I pull the motor again.
 
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Thanks we never even thought to check that...I guess we were just confused by the straight water in the cylinders. Didnt seem like it could get from there to the cylinders clean without mixing. Ill try a new cooler...
 
Is the head ported and did you have it fire ringed or o-ringed?
 
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I helped him on it and no it was neither ported or o-ringed. Pretty much stock head right now.
 
For it to leak that bad and be a block problem you should be able to lay a straight edge on it and see were its low. May want to try a different head gasket also. Another thing when it blew the head gasket in the bus how did it blow? Did it burn the block were it blew the gasket? In a bus alot of times they have the water to air intercoolers on the intake plentum, is it still on there?
 
The block surface looked fine, and I personally checked the block with a strait edge and feeler gauge over and over to verify it was at least within tolerance, and it checked out ok. There wasnt an air to water intercooler anywhere near the plenum or one on the bus period. A burned block would cause a problem though I suppose. I have access to a spare block for next to nothing. We were discussing going that route. What other gasket would you suggest? Thicker?
 
Yeah all 6 are filling up. When you remove injectors and spin the motor you get a complementary underhood washing.
 
Sorry missed the part about the new marine gasket being installed after the first tear down. Im kinda stumped. The water in the oil i would lean towards the cooler being bad the water in all 6 cylinders means either the block is cracked some were or the suface between the block and gasket. Something to try. Set the head on the block and use the feeler guages to make sure the dowel pins arent holding the head off the block as long as you have less distance then the thickness of the gasket then that shouldnt be it.
 
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DISTURBED said:
Sorry missed the part about the new marine gasket being installed after the first tear down. Im kinda stumped. The water in the oil i would lean towards the cooler being bad the water in all 6 cylinders means either the block is cracked some were or the suface between the block and gasket. Something to try. Set the head on the block and use the feeler guages to make sure the dowel pins arent holding the head off the block as long as you have less distance then the thickness of the gasket then that shouldnt be it.
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Awesome. Thanks for helping us out here. We may just go a new block route and see where that leads. Trouble is finding machine shops in the area with the equipment to work on the 5.9 blocks. Heads arent such a big deal but noone wants to see the block.
 
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