Water/Meth ?'s

00 black ram

00 black ram

Cummin's Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 8, 2007
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I was pondering on gettin a setup for my truck and just had a couple ?'s. I am looking at these 2 companies: Snow Performance stage 2 and the Coolingmist kit that is like $500 on their website. I am leaning more towards the Coolingmist cause it comes with a 250psi pump and I can get the 6-7gal tank upgrade cheaper the the Snow with a 2qt. Can you run straight water and see improvements in mpg and temps? What set-up would you guys recommend with my truck? Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks Matt
 
Not sure about the pros/cons of each system, but I recently picked up the AEM kit without res for a tad over $300 .... kit looks decent to me?

:Cheer:
 
I owned a coolingmist kit and decided not to use BUT all the nozzles were nicely made metal/copper something and ive heard the snow kits have plastic nozzles and are less quality but I could be wrong. you get a really nice kit for what you pay for with the coolingmist the new setups have 250 psi pumps. I just sold a 2 stage 4 nozzle system I would have made you a good deal on!
 
I personally really like Cooling Mist's electronic control stuff.

When it comes to pumps, they're all pretty much equal. In that they're all rebadged Shurflos... Cooling Mist claims that their new ones are bigger and badder, and I like them as a company, so I'd probably get that one. If I didn't have an 1550 PSI, 1.5 GPM pump I'd get one, anyways.

When it comes to nozzles, I'm a believer in these ones from McMaster-Carr. $20 a piece.

ACClutch.jpg


WaterGation001.jpg


WaterGation049.jpg

Straight water does wonders for temperatures. I wouldn't really expect it to do anything significant for MPG's; I would recommend against using it while cruising, as I watered down my oil before spraying water at ~5 PSI/ 800 degrees EGT over a long drive.
 
Begle1 said:
I personally really like Cooling Mist's electronic control stuff.

When it comes to pumps, they're all pretty much equal. In that they're all rebadged Shurflos... Cooling Mist claims that their new ones are bigger and badder, and I like them as a company, so I'd probably get that one. If I didn't have an 1550 PSI, 1.5 GPM pump I'd get one, anyways.

When it comes to nozzles, I'm a believer in these ones from McMaster-Carr. $20 a piece.

ACClutch.jpg


WaterGation001.jpg


WaterGation049.jpg

Straight water does wonders for temperatures. I wouldn't really expect it to do anything significant for MPG's; I would recommend against using it while cruising, as I watered down my oil before spraying water at ~5 PSI/ 800 degrees EGT over a long drive.
Click to expand...


Did that happen using a progressive controller?
 
your motor is gonna hate you when your 1500 psi 1500 gallons per minute pump blows those three pressed in wires off your nozzles

quality nozzles are inexpensive

pistons and head work is not

quality nozzles also atomize the water better

ya know...to keep it outta your oil pan
 
They're rated at 1000 PSI; I regulate my pump down to that, I've flowtested without any signs of loosening the wire. At 150 PSI I don't feel any danger; mine have flowed plenty of water through them. Not saying that I wouldn't mind a few more people out there running them so they find any potential problems before I do. I'm not entirely altruistic.

They atomize better than the simple little-hole nozzles, that's the idea anyways. McMaster-Carr has single hole nozzles for $5 a piece, by the way. $10 for ones with built-in check balls.
 
I am leaning towards the Coolingmist setup, I thought that you could just it help mileage on long trips, but you would have to have a Progressive controller??
 
You don't need a progressive controller. You can have a system with only one nozzle; then you would just turn the pump on when you want it, no solenoid needed. Or you can use a system with several nozzles and one solenoid on each nozzle; that lets you flow a little bit through one nozzle, more through another nozzle, and then both nozzles for even more. Or you can use a PWM on a solenoid on a single nozzle, and by turning the solenoid on and off really fast you can control the amount of water through the nozzle that way.

If you keep the flow rate really low, you might see a MPG benefit. All I know is that you can water the oil down with around 10 GPH, 5 PSI boost and 800 degrees EGT. Cut that down to 2 or so GPH and you probably won't have that problem, or at least the water would boil out of the oil fast enough to not build up. And my engine probably has more blow-by than an engine newer than 20 years.

I find it hard to believe that I'm the only one to have ever made milkshake, but I might also be the first one to flow so much at such a low boost/ EGT.
 
The 10 GPH is my smallest stage on my low pressure system... I have plenty of control, but I can't go any smaller, so I was cruising with my smallest stage on to see what would happen. I don't think there's anything to gain by spraying during a sustained sub-1100 degrees, sub-10 PSI.

Here's what those nozzles look like at a steady 1000 PSI. The photos are without any flow control- about 1.25 GPM (I flow tested into a bucket).

IMG_1238.jpg


IMG_1241.jpg


IMG_1234.jpg


You can follow the water droplets as they countour in the wind for 15 feet. From 20 feet away I can see 270 degrees of rainbow. I think that's some pretty beautiful atomization. If anything out there makes a nicer plume I'd like to know about it.
 
The garden house isn't actually on in that picture; you can kind of see that the valve the garden hose is connected to is perpendicular to the hose. The little pump on the right, mounted up on the side of the tool box, is a 60 PSI transfer pump to feed the pressure washer. The pressure switch on the bottom keeps it from exceeding 60 PSI in case it deadheads; I seized and melted the first Harbor Freight pump I had in there. The only thing about the system that's not self-sustained was the extension cord, and that's because the 950 CA redtop only puts out enough juice to power the washer for a minute and a half.

No matter what I ever have for an engine in the truck, the water injection system is going to remain. It's been a nice, time-consuming, nickle-and-dime affair that's gotten me through college.
 
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