What all can be done to a head?

CumminsPOWER

CumminsPOWER

"I'll go all in."
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
791
Okay, I've been meaning to get some clarification on this for quite some time. What are the various things you can do to a head on our trucks? And whats the difference between them, and what will work together and what won't?

Theres 12mm studs, 14mm studs, o-rings?, fireringed, port and polish?, different gaskets...



Some one please educate me on head upgrades!
 
You might also think about doing something with the valve seats if you are going to use a head that has pressed in seats. They will eventually drop and cause problems.
 
12mm head studs allow more clamping pressure on the head gasket due to metallurgical factor causing less ductility then stock head bolts

14mm head studs allow more clamping force than the 12mm head studs due to less ductility but required drilling block and head and tapping the block

o-rings are a grove cut into the head and wire placed in them with a small protrusion to allow more clamping force on the head gasket directly around the cylinder to allow for higher combustion pressures without blowing the head gasket

fire rings ?? not really sure

porting and polishing on our head requires machining off the plenum intake from the side of the head to access the intake port. porting and polishing is making the intake and exhaust port larger to a design that flows a higher volume of air. the valve openings are ported as well and over sized valves are used

different gaskets have different materials used at the ring in the gasket which is around the cylinder some which provide a better seal between the head and block allowing for high combustion pressures without blowing the head gasket

can anyone else add more to that.
 
Fire rings require a head gasket that is cut out to allow the metal ring (such as the "o-ring" has) to directly seat on the deck of the block. They allow you to run higher boost pressure (70lbs-80lbs) ("o-rings"50lbs-65lbs), but not recommended for street trucks.

Only extensive porting requires the removal of the plenum. Heavy porting can be done by removing the valves and porting there. Also consider matching the exhaust ports to the manifold.

Head gasket I run a stock gasket, but they offer a thicker 12v gasket that can be modified for a 24v. There also a "Cometic gasket" but dont know much about them.
 
Okay, those two posts were very informative.



So say if I hope to be some where in the range of 550 to 600 rwhp when its all said and done, what is recommended for the head? Would 12mm studs and a gasket of some sort be enough to handle the psi? I shouldn't need port & polishing right? What about valves and springs?



I remember hearing bad things about the cometic gasket, which actually suprised me when I read that.
 
To flow enough air to support that kind of power you will need to get it "o-ringed". Porting allows much better flow (get the most out of your air supply) Springs are recommended for high pressures and high rpm's.
 
Stock bolts will hold more than most think if done correctly, look for a thread in the Dodge Competition area on the subject for more info.

For a street truck get it O-ringed, not fireringed, O-rings tend to hold up better over time. At their most basic they are pieces of stainless wire laid in grooves cut into the block that give extra compression and strength to the gasket.

If you do decide on studs, go with the 12mm, the 14's have been known to cause cylinder warping if done incorrectly. There is such a thing as too much clamp force LOL
 
To run 14mm studs you have to have the block re-tapped for the larger diameter.

Fire-Rings can be machinesd into the head, the block or both. I run them on a daily driver, no problrms with 20,000 miles so far. I run a .010 over gasket to allow for more air to be crammed in there. Which in turn means I can add more fuel.

Porting the exhaust side is time well spent. At least gasket match the exhaust ports, exhaust maifold and turbo mounting flanges. I have not done the intake plenum.

60# springs are a must when running high rpms and/or boost levels. Piston+valve= Bad day!!!

Valve job is always a plus on any engine.

I am not at the level where titanium spring keepers and locks are needed but they would be good insurance.


Before any of this is done make sure the head has been checked for cracks or anything else that would make it a boat anchor.
 
Id go with something better than 60# springs, and a O-ring would be just fine for you and will take you a LONG way. Definately do some exhaust porting and i wouldnt worry about the intake side.$.02
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top