white haze and missfire

mitchdog7

mitchdog7

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Joined
Jul 28, 2012
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63
So, I finally got around to replacing my timing case from the kdp falling and taking a chunk of the case out, took me two months to do, and now i've got a really bad miss/lope and a white haze throughout the rpms, and i'm at a loss as to why. the missfire smooths out a little in the higher rpms, but its still very noticeable. At a stop in drive the truck straight struggles, and rpms should be high enough, but my rpm gauge isn't functioning correctly right now.
Other notes, I can build some boost, but the gauge vibrates/fluctuates like crazy.
I didn't change anything other then the timing case

What i've tried:
I swapped injectors to a known good set, and that didn't do anything different. I've checked timing multiple times, I initially set it at 20.5, but it ran super rough/missfired. then switched it to 17.5, and it doesn't miss/run quite as hard as before, but still enough that the truck isn't driveable, and still smokes. I've cracked all the injection lines, there is fuel going to all of them, I've checked valve clearances, and im pretty positive i've watched all of them function correctly(i'll have to double check tomorrow). I have 35+psi fuel pressure, oil pressure is good. I've checked the #1 delivery valve(which I had out to do timing), and it's installed correctly. truck starts up extremely fast with the pedal down.

Now that I think about it, the truck has always had a slight miss it sounded like, but ran great, and didn't smoke except when cold/sitting for a while. Maybe the injection pump went out?
Could this possibly be a head gasket issue? I replaced that, and o-ringed it about a year ago or so, haven't had any issues with it since.

thanks for reading. I'd appreciate any suggestions or ideas.
- Mitch
 
mitchdog7 said:
So I finally got around to replacing my timing case from the kdp falling and taking a chunk of the case out, took me two months to do, and now i've got a really bad miss/lope and a white haze throughout the rpms, and i'm at a loss as to why. the missfire smooths out a little in the higher rpms, but its still very noticeable. At a stop in drive the truck straight struggles, and rpms should be high enough, but my rpm gauge isn't functioning correctly right now.
Other notes, I can build some boost, but the gauge vibrates/fluctuates like crazy.
I didn't change anything other then the timing case

What i've tried:
I swapped injectors to a known good set, and that didn't do anything different. I've checked timing multiple times, I initially set it at 20.5, but it ran super rough/missfired. then switched it to 17.5, and it doesn't miss/run quite as hard as before, but still enough that the truck isn't driveable, and still smokes. I've cracked all the injection lines, there is fuel going to all of them, I've checked valve clearances, and im pretty positive i've watched all of them function correctly(i'll have to double check tomorrow). I have 35+psi fuel pressure, oil pressure is good. I've checked the #1 delivery valve(which I had out to do timing), and it's installed correctly. truck starts up extremely fast with the pedal down.

Now that I think about it, the truck has always had a slight miss it sounded like, but ran great, and didn't smoke except when cold/sitting for a while. Maybe the injection pump went out?
Could this possibly be a head gasket issue? I replaced that, and o-ringed it about a year ago or so, haven't had any issues with it since.

thanks for reading. I'd appreciate any suggestions or ideas.
- Mitch
Click to expand...

I'd start by pulling the cover back off the front of the engine and make sure you have the cam gear and the crank gear lined up properly and go from there.
 
I just checked the timing, 17.5 degrees still.

I checked the cam gear/crank gear multiple times before I put the cover back on. Maybe I'll do that again.. bleh. Would it fire up at all if it was one tooth out of sync?
I'll have to double check again that all the valves are operating correctly.
Question, if the crankshaft is spun 360degrees while the cam is out, then the cam put back in, would that cause a problem? I didn't mess with the crank while it was out, just wondering.

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Would taking the timing back to stock help anything?

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Also, are there shims inside the delivery valve holder? Above the spring and pin/holder thing? When my friend pulled out the #1 dv holder he dropped the spring and holder/pin that goes inside/above the spring. I looked at parts diagrams, and see two different sized shims that could go there? Would that cause a problem?

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With it running crack the injector lines and see if you can narrow down what cylinder it is.
 
What am I listening for? I kinda remember one line bogging the motor down more then the others if that makes sense..

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mitchdog7 said:
What am I listening for? I kinda remember one line bogging the motor down more then the others if that makes sense..

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Click to expand...

You are listening for contribution. You are looking for one that doesn't change (or atleast like the others) when the line is opened or closed.

Have a friend watch the tach and note how much the engine slows for each cylinder.

You asked about cam timing, yes it can run. It should be hard to start this way.

If the Foo Shyts, wear it.
 
I would look at the gears closer and make sure a tooth didn't chip off when the dowl came out!
 
Well, I took it to a shop, and they did a Leak down test. Turns out cylinder 2 3 and 6 are leaking badly through the valves..

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Keep your fingers crossed. Maybe you will get off cheap. Pull the rocker housing off check to see if the push rods are bent or something and not fully seating the valves.
 
Sounds like the problem I got from injectors not having enough fuel. Dv's can't keep up. Most likely not the case though
 
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