White haze out oil cap???

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MegaCabRam

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I'll try and keep this as short as possible. I rebuilt the motor a little over 1k miles ago, new Mahle 20 over pistons and rings, new bearings etc... rebuilt injectors from Industrial, 425 head studs... I've ran it pretty hard from day 1, it used a little oil the first 2-300 miles but i haven't had to add much at all since. The belt has been squeaking ever since i put it in and the fan clutch ran 90% of the time so i suspected it may be bad, so yesterday i ordered a new fan clutch, tensioner, idler pulley and a fluid damper. I put on the tensioner and idler and my squeak went away, now this morning i drove it about 10 miles to work with a 18' bumper hitch trailer and 2 zero turn mowers, when i pulled in i looked down and noticed the temp hand was past 200 then it idled up to 1k rpm's and had a little miss. I shut it off then cranked it back, everything was normal for a second but then it went back to doing it again. Looked under the hood and noticed the fan clutch was barely even turning so i went on and put the new one on, also there was a spot of oil on the valve cover right behind the filler neck. With the cap off there is a light haze coming out the filler neck as well as the blow by tube. It hasn’t did the idle up and miss thing again since. Turned the cap over and it doesn’t try and blow it off, if there is blow by its not much. my first thought was i had got it way to hot but it never puked any coolant out and this afternoon i took it out with the trailer still hooked up and read the coolant temp with the scanner, i got the temp hand about where it was this morning and the highest it got was 215*, temp outside was in the mid 90's... ill post some videos tomorrow but it still runs and idles as good as ever. Now here’s my thing, normally i would think the rings probably just haven’t seated good yet but I’ve never noticed the haze before until all that happened this morning. Hopefully I’ve just not seen it because i wasn’t looking for it. I don’t think the 215 is necessarily to hot considering the outside temp and the trailer but knowing my luck who knows... The truck is all stock. I’m going to get a new radiator in the morning and see if that’s not what is making it run a little hot... Just looking for a little reassurance i guess.
 
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I have seen some diesel engines show haze when it is warm out and humidity is high.
 
Your fine the idle up is a safety built in when it gets hot! Bad fan did that no worries haze out the fill and down pipe on a new motor eh run it hard unless you got a bad injector your fine!
 
with your A/C on max the fan clutch should revert to 100% duty.

a fresh motor will build some heat and im glad to see your getting on it. it needs some good heat cycles to get the rings to seat.

215* is hot for me. then again a run 1 180* thermostat to counteract these texas temps.

hazing is normal on a fresh motor for the first 2-500 miles depending on how the build went... whats the story on the sticks?
 
I checked again this morning and I've still got oil coming out the filler neck, it runs back around the front left valve cover bolt as well so I need to make sure that's not where its coming from. Still it wasnt leaking at all till it got hot that morning. The truck has 370k+ miles so I didn't want to risk the injectors on a new engine, I'm sure they were put in at some point but I had no way of knowing for sure... with the old fan clutch it ran a lot when it wasn't suppose to but now with the new one I still haven't heard it kick on even when the temp hand got up.
 
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Got the new radiator in and it wad running a lot cooler until this morning, I ran a hose from the dipstick out to the windshield and even under a load its still just a light haze, it's dry as a bone, no oil is being pushed out anywhere that I can tell except for the oil cap. I'm starting to think maybe I've got a bad oring on the cap. But anyways I got it up around 215-220 again. The fan kicked on so I'm good there... any ideas? I'm wanting to get this thing sold but I've got to make sure everything is alright before I do....
 
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Might be a stupid question but is it possible the transmission could be causing the coolant temp to go up? The heat exchanger on the side of the block has coolant and atf running thru it...
 
MegaCabRam said:
when i pulled in i looked down and noticed the temp hand was past 200 then it idled up to 1k rpm's and had a little miss. I shut it off then cranked it back, everything was normal for a second but then it went back to doing it again.
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I'd start simple. Thermostat, and verify there are no airlocks in the system. After that I would look at the engine, and injectors. What was the ring gap set at? Head ever re-torqued? Is it making oil? I could be wrong but I thought Industrial had a terrible track record on CR injectors.
 
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Thermostat is a new cummins 190* but I know that still doesn't mean it's good... I retorqued the head after 10 heat cycles. That's good to know about industrial if true... I always thought they had good stuff but sounds about like my luck.
 
Ive got it tore apart to run a compression test just for a little peace of mind, so im going to re-torque the head, adjust the valves and put (another) new t-stat in while its down. its got a light tick to it so im hoping the valve adjustment will take care of that. Compression all checked between 390-420. The only thing ive seen i didnt like so far has been the injectors... That cant be normal for less than 1,500 miles can it?
 

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It's a new motor rings are not seated yet. You need to tow heavy a few times and beat it bad! but the injectors will always get a carbon build up!
 
It's had around 5k behind it 90% of the time but yea you're right, I need to hurry up and get a gooseneck hitch in so I can't get some real weight behind it. I've heard of some taking a lot of miles to ever get broke in. After doing some reading I'm wondering if I should have shopped around a little on injectors, I figured Industrial was top of the line when I came to cr stuff.
 
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MegaCabRam said:
Compression all checked between 390-420.
Click to expand...

I don't like that compression, but they are uniform which is good. So I go back to what was the ring gap set at? I get everything broke in and seated in under 1k miles, or 4-8 engine hours. But we hook up to the heaviest load or hardest pulling implement and go full tilt right off the bat keeping EGT and coolant temps in check. I think this is what you need to do. You want constant pressure on the rings. It doesn't even have to be a heavy load. Big ugly box trailer that catches wind and 75 mph is a healthy load.
 
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I was wrong on the compression, I rechecked them all tonight and they were all right at 420 give or take a little either way, for some reason I got one 390 last night. On the ring gap I really have no idea, the guy that does out machine work is a friend so he come by the shop and looked at everything before and while I was going together with it. He's good, if anything was out of spec he would have caught it.
 
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My rings didn't want to seat till I put a 467 on it and franker her up. 50 psi sets rings good. This was after like 20k of towing and daily driving. She was using about a quart of oil a month. Now I drain about the same I put in when I change the oil.
 
Looks like I was being a little to paranoid, I've got it back together and everything is fine. Turns out it wasn't pushing oil out the filler cap, the cap was just junk, got it from oreillys... I put a factory one from Genos on and it hasn't leaked a drop. Still has a slight little tick that I can't find, #2 exhaust rocker was really loose so I thought that was it but it's still there. I'm pretty sure its somewhere in the fuel system, almost seems to be in the cp3 but I can't pinpoint it for sure...
 
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Some guys have complained about that, and changed the CP3 phase to reduce or eliminate it.
 
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