Wicked coolant bypass

Runninlean said:
Todd not sure where your logic is coming from on this one. The spring has nothing to do with the valve sticking. Its debris causing the plunger to stick. You can also note by the spec sheet that Swole posted that the valve does regulate flow according to pressure. The valve is designed as a duty cycle valve not a simple pop off style safety valve.

I believe there is a better option for the valve (I am running a few now) but the valve does regulate flow and does its job when not hampered by debris or corrosion.
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Regardless of what Type of spring being used..debris will cause any valve to malfunction... My point was that spring will eventually Fail, in reality all springs fail at some point, double loops double life.
 
WICKEDDIESELS said:
http://www.racingsprings.com/
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Whats this suppose to Tell us,Do they supply the raw materials to meet Industry Standards, Are they In house Producers,What type of heat treat method do they Use,etc, Again anyone who makes a comment different then yours, YOU try and tare down.I have 1000s of springs Made monthly form FCA springs to valve springs,I welcome any comment for improvements, Weather its form a competitor or owner.

I could just sit back and relax and never comment, Why Not at least Visit the idea instead of always defending or taring down.

By the way Shane Mat install your Bypass in our 06 Race Truck and it failed.We simply replaced the Spring and its works flawless.Its worthy of being bolted to 1000hp+ truck, if We did'nt like it, We would remove it and chit can.
 
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I just got done pulling it apart and the valve was stuck open. I taped on it a little and it closed. I pushed it in and let it close about 20 times. Seemed to work ok and did not stick. Put it back together and now it gets to operating temp like normal. Thanks for the help guys. Simple fix
 
RAB 38 said:
I just got done pulling it apart and the valve was stuck open. I taped on it a little and it closed. I pushed it in and let it close about 20 times. Seemed to work ok and did not stick. Put it back together and now it gets to operating temp like normal. Thanks for the help guys. Simple fix
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Whoa! Not so fast...


I went through this said process about 20-30 timrs before I got fed up with it sticking every freakin time I did several WOT runs... Same chit every time.

You will too... You'll eventually have to take it completely apart and polished / clean like I did.. Good luck though..
 
I had exactly the same issue,..

RAB 38 said:
I put on my coolant bypass this weekend along with my twins. I have had this bypass for a few years just never got around to putting it on. I believe it is his first generation system.

Anyway, I have noticed that now it's on the truck does not get to operating temp. Seems to run around 150-160 degrees. Anybody else have this happen with their coolant bypass? I think it may be because the coolant is dumped into the thermostat housing. I have a feeling it's not going to make good heat this winter.
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It was a little piece of c..p in that valve mechanism back by #5 cylinder. It held it open all the time. Cleaned it out and it worked perfect.
 
We've had ours for a couple of years now with ZERO issues (At the 850 Hp range). Great piece of hardware. I would recommend it for all common rail trucks!
 
Been having same issues with truck not coming up to temp, I pulled the valve out and it was stuck open, I tried to pull it completely apart with no luck but I am wondering if the little holes in the valve are suppose to line up with the bigger holes, as a was working the valve it spun. Any help is appreciated
 
Mine stuck open also a couple weeks ago while plowing. Cold feet are a bisch when sitting in the truck for 26 hours straight.

I pulled the valve out and it was hung open. I smacked it on the work bench and it closed. The worked it open/closed about 50 times and then I shoved it back in the truck. It's been fine ever since. I couldn't tell you why it hung open. I've been running a coolant filter for a few years now so I would assume my coolant is pretty clean.


There shouldnt be any reason to have the holes lining up. Mine didn't and it works fine.
 
I soaked it in oil over night and put it in a few hours ago and truck is back to normal, I tried to pull it apart to de burr it

How much travel should it have? I would guess mine is only 1/4 inch
 
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I took mine apart and polished all of the internal parts. Never stuck again!!
 
Or, Just dump the pressure valve altogether and go with a thermostat style bypass, after all thermostats have been proven to work in vehicle cooling system applications. Zero problems or issues with my Fleece bypass.
 
The Pooler said:
We've had ours for a couple of years now with ZERO issues (At the 850 Hp range). Great piece of hardware. I would recommend it for all common rail trucks!
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same here (800 rwhp range) never a one issue. easy install and clean parts!
it been on the truck for about 4 years of i were to guess. i called shane and told him i also used it to help "burp" the system after a flush and he said that was a great idea since it was the highest point in the system.

But on another note, i am ANAL about the fluids in my truck. i only run distilled water and i flush the system once a year since its so cheap to do. im never selling my truck so why not!.:rockwoot: i also run a 180 thermostat since it stays hot enough in Texas anyways!

-MArcus
 
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