won't start after HPOP STC replace

H

hardhatz

New member
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Nov 3, 2008
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I have an 07 6.0 & it became difficult to start hot. Ford wanted $1500 to "check it", and that was not in my budget. I decided it was the HPOP STC connection & upon disassembly found the connection broken.

I installed the new fitting & put everything back together & now it will not start at all. Cranks well, no codes.

Strangely, it shows oil pressure when you turn the key on, even with engine not turning.

FYI locally Ford wanted $65 for the HPOP connector kit, and International wanted $29. I bought both & compared & the International kit has about twice as many parts in it, plus instructions, for half the money. I will put up a thread for that I guess...

Please guys, tell me what to check..
 
When I did mine, it took a lot of cranking to "prime" the injector high pressure oil rail again. To help, I put my battery charger in the 50A crank mode and eventually got it going. But yea, I was worried I had done something wrong. Since I got it going, it's been great!

Well, I can't remember times, but it seems I cranked for 10-20 seconds. Then let it rest for a couple minutes. And repeated this maybe 6 or more times?
 
How long did you crank it over? Once you take apart the high pressure oil system you have to crank it over for quite a while before it starts. Put a battery charger on batteries and keep cranking on it. It may take 3 or 4 cranking cycles before it fires. Then you will have to take it for a long drive and romp on it pretty good to get the air out of the system. Hope this helps.

Tyler
 
OK, I've had it on the charger & I just went out & cranked it about 15 seconds 2 times. Both times the dash came up "TBC" fault. What does that mean?

Also, what do you make of an oil pressure reading when stopped?..
 
hardhatz said:
OK, I've had it on the charger & I just went out & cranked it about 15 seconds 2 times. Both times the dash came up "TBC" fault. What does that mean?

Also, what do you make of an oil pressure reading when stopped?..
Click to expand...

Trailer Brake Controller fault. I have seen this when trying to start after HP oil work, so I think it's normal.
 
hardhatz said:
OK, I've had it on the charger & I just went out & cranked it about 15 seconds 2 times. Both times the dash came up "TBC" fault. What does that mean?

Also, what do you make of an oil pressure reading when stopped?..
Click to expand...

I'd keep trying to crank it (with breaks); you don't want to burn out your starter.

I don't know of the oil pressure reading. How are you obtaining that?

Good luck. Keep us posted.
 
now it surges...

OK, it's getting worse.. :(

I pulled the turbo so I could check the IPC & then I took out the IPS & cranked it about a minute total until I got oil out the port, then I was finally able to get it fired up using starting fluid. It took about 10 seconds of running to get oil out of the turbo supply line. The sound of it out the Y pipe was fabulous!

I shut it down & reinstalled the turbo and it started ok, so I shut it off & buttoned everything up & topped the coolant. I put everything else together & suddenly it refused to start without ether. Even after running it an hour, it will not re-start without starting fluid.

It will idle ok. If I try to hold it around 1000 RPM, it surges from 500 to 1500 just like you were flooring the pedal 2 times a second. It is also rough above 2000.

It now throws codes 336 & 683.

It also now makes a big screeching noise when you floor it hard.
:bang
My "buy a new Toyota" girlfriend gonna kill me if I don't get this thing going...

If I plug a pressure gauge into the IPS port, will it give me an accurate cranking pressure?
 
Humm.....

How did you attach the STC fitting to the HPOP? and make sure it was straight? Did you use the plastic guide plate?

Perhaps there's a slight leak? Maybe it's not quite flush with the feed line mount/gasket? I'm not sure.....sorry.
 
Very straight. There's more to the story I did not include:
While working on the pump, I dropped a bolt down the rear gear cavity. This gave be the privilege of pulling the trans, flywheel, & rear plate to remove it. This gave me an unencumbered view of the connection, and it was perfect.

Since I was in there, I replaced the non-leaking rear main seal with the fancy (& expensive) new rear seal from Ford. Imagine my disappointment that it now leaks like a sieve. :doh: Not a real happy weekend, for sure.

As far as the running issue goes, I am starting to think maybe its a harness issue....
Anybody have some engine bay harnesses for sale?
 
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