2-3 bind or axlewrap

R

RollCoal9000

New member
Is the 2-3 shift on a 38re supposed to defuel? Feels like the truck stops accelerating for a split second, or like brakes are tapped almost. I drilled the 2-3 shift homes for firmer shifts. I have 3" blocks also could be axlewrap?
 
RollCoal9000 said:
Is the 2-3 shift on a 38re supposed to defuel? Feels like the truck stops accelerating for a split second, or like brakes are tapped almost. I drilled the 2-3 shift homes for firmer shifts. I have 3" blocks also could be axlewrap?
Click to expand...

Its probably a 2-3 bindup issue. what apply lever and servos did you use? Transgo shift kit I assume?
 
Phil said the converter clutches looked like they were dragging. What might cause that? He said the cover looked brand new but the clutches looked worn.

When I had it on Jack stands testing all the gears it did fail to unlock in 3rd once and killed it. Or it could've been the band binding up killing it.

It drove fine and locked and unlocked good. It did put a bit of a load on the engine at idle but I assumed that's because it's a low stall converter.
 
RollCoal9000 said:
Phil said the converter clutches looked like they were dragging. What might cause that? He said the cover looked brand new but the clutches looked worn.

When I had it on Jack stands testing all the gears it did fail to unlock in 3rd once and killed it. Or it could've been the band binding up killing it.

It drove fine and locked and unlocked good. It did put a bit of a load on the engine at idle but I assumed that's because it's a low stall converter.
Click to expand...

Could have trash in the OD solenoid causing it to lock.
 
The switch valve had a gouge in it where the roll pin I put in seated too far into the bore, probably the source of lockup troubles. I had drilled the holes for lockup a while back and didnt want it to be too harsh so stuck rolls pins in them. Probably why it stuck in lockup before, maybe why clutches were dragging.
 
Few questions if anyone has any input.

1.) Phil said the converter clutches looked like they were dragging due to a pump issue. I think it was the switch valve sticking. The pump made good pressure and didnt whine. What would indicate a pump problem?

2.) I replaced all bushings and honed them by hand with Emery cloth, they all had some hot spots on disassembly, but they spin good by hand. So I THINK they'll wear in but if I need to get a brake hone or use another method to clearance them I will pull it all apart, any input on this would be helpful.

3.) How tight should the converter bushing be, I honed it by hand last time to get the converter to slide in. Was installed wrong and chewed up hub and bushing. I should be able to turn it easily by hand right?

4.) I have two selective thrust washers on the stator side atm to get ~.04 endplay. The largest I have gets me .08. Ok to shim it with two selective to get the endplay tighter?
 
What he said^^^^. Swap VB and test. Use a stock one.


If you want to test my suggestion to you is modify a forward discharge line so you can TC pressure. You may have the VB charging the TC when it is not supposed to. TC circuit is on/off and no in between. You should see 3-6 psi of pressure in the line. Anything much higher than that the TC is charging causing the dragging. Since you are also complaining about a 2-3 bind it sounds like you may have more than one issue with your VB.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4362.jpg
    IMG_4362.jpg
    483.8 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_4363.jpg
    IMG_4363.jpg
    545.9 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
It's either a vb problem or internal leakage. I have 6psi line pressure in neutral and a little bit in reverse, can feel forward clutches dragging in reverse. And I do not have the time to mess with it anymore so looks like I'll have to send it off.

Adjusting the manual valve made these problems worse and I cannot find any information on where it should sit in each gear. It's a ****show.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top