converting 99 24 valve to 12 valve problem

Charging system will work fine. Just use the 24 valve alternator to make sure the plugs are the same and the 24 valve PCM will run it just fine.
 
Thanks for your help everyone, I have a good understanding of this now.
I'm hoping to get this wrapped up next week. I'll have a few more questions I'm sure.

I did sell my 24 valve alternator to the guy that bought the vp44 but I have another alternator from a gas 1500 and it has the same plugs as the 24valve.
I called autozone and they said there were two made for the gas trucks.
One is a 135 amp and one is a 117 amp. where the cummins has a 125 amp and a 135 amp. We could not figure out which one this alternator is but I have to think it is the 135 amp due to the plugs being the same.
Not sure of that though.
So If I use it and it turns out only 117 amp then what is the worse that can happen?
 
slrrls said:
Thanks for your help everyone, I have a good understanding of this now.
I'm hoping to get this wrapped up next week. I'll have a few more questions I'm sure.

I did sell my 24 valve alternator to the guy that bought the vp44 but I have another alternator from a gas 1500 and it has the same plugs as the 24valve.
I called autozone and they said there were two made for the gas trucks.
One is a 135 amp and one is a 117 amp. where the cummins has a 125 amp and a 135 amp. We could not figure out which one this alternator is but I have to think it is the 135 amp due to the plugs being the same.
Not sure of that though.
So If I use it and it turns out only 117 amp then what is the worse that can happen?
Click to expand...

Shouldn't be a problem unless you are running a stupid amount of electronics in your truck.
 
I used the alternator from the 12V truck. Bolted right up. '99 may have a different conector, though.
 
The goal is to start my swap up the beginning of this week. I'll let you know if everything works out slrrls. Truck is a bare frame right now, so we'll see.
 
I take it that I should use the 24 valve TCM since we are trying to fool it into thinking it is a 24 valve motor.
Correct?
 
I've about got things bolted back up.
So let me recap what you guys have told me.

I'll be using the 24 valve ECM and TCM plus placing the ECM on the 12 valve non storm motor in about the same place as it was on the 24 valve.
I'll use 4 of these sensor connectors and tape the others out of the way.
I'm looking at 4 sensors on the 12 valve vs the 8 to 10 sensors on the 24 valve.
1. coolant sensor have not found this as it is not on the thermostat housing.
2. intake air sensor
3. oil sensor
4. crank sensor/engine speed sensor the one I see is on a bracket between the water pump and the crank monitoring a slot cut in the crank pulley.

adapt the 4 sensors by either switching out the plugs or using m14x1.5 npt adapters to adapt the 24 valve sensors to the 12 valve motor which ever is easier.
I'll need to pull a wire from a 5amp fuse in the fuse block under dash to the fuel shut off solenoid relay and another to the starter signal wire.
question: Do I run that wire from the starter to the fuel shut off solenoid or starter to the same 5 amp fuse?
unclear on that.

Use the alternator from with the 24 valve harness/
In the end I'll need to pull the check engine light or unsolder the wire from the check engine light on the cluster.
I won't have a working tach unless I take some extra measure.

Did I miss anything?
 
  1. Your coolant temp sensor on the 12V is driver side very rear of the head close to the fire wall.
  2. Heater grid.
    kleann said:
    What are you going to use the intake air sensor for?
    Click to expand...
  3. I relocated my oil pressure sensor to the pipe plug on the top of the oil filter head. Just a lot easier to get to.
  4. Crank sensor for the 24V reads off a 36-1 tone wheel. Reference my pic. My tach works great.

I don't know if it will work if you change the plugs on the wiring harness and try to use the 12V sensors.
 
Scott do you know what the difference is between the 4 pulse - 12 pulse and 58 pulse tach kits?
 
BigPapa said:
  1. Your coolant temp sensor on the 12V is driver side very rear of the head close to the fire wall.
  2. Heater grid.
  3. I relocated my oil pressure sensor to the pipe plug on the top of the oil filter head. Just a lot easier to get to.
  4. Crank sensor for the 24V reads off a 36-1 tone wheel. Reference my pic. My tach works great.

I don't know if it will work if you change the plugs on the wiring harness and try to use the 12V sensors.
Click to expand...

Totally forgot about that. haha thanks
 
i just swapped my 01 to a 12v last weekend and i was fortunate that it was a ppump 24v. i only used the coolant, oil pressure and cam sensor and have had no issues.

if you re-use the 24v coolant sensor you will need to find an adapter from M14x1.50 to which every pipe location you use. i used the location right next to the hose barb for the heater core line.

the oil pressure sensor fit in the same location on the side of the block as the 24v.

the front housing was already modified for the cam sensor. so the one thing i had to do was use the 24v cam and put it in the 12v motor.
 
Scott I nabbed this post from your post on the other thread.
" What year is the 12V? '96-'98 sensors may work with the 24V ECM. '94-'95 used 8V reference voltage, '96-'98 used 5V. You may have to change some connectors, though. "

So that is why I said either change the sensors or connectors which ever is easier.
Do you know if anybody else has tried it?
 
emailed Levi at destroked and he replied today.
"You will need a 36-1 tach kit, (not shown on our website yet). There are a couple other functions that the tach will run. Fuel pump is one of them. The 4, 12 and 58 kits are for Ford trucks. Different years get different numbers. Sensor connector swapping should work."
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top