Gathering up some parts, need some help!

You should be able to make more then that. 180 pump that's home racked, comp cuts, 5ks, 6x13s, small cam, little porting on exhaust and bowls, cast 468/83/.90 and I was around 725 based on track times(mid 11s).

I have a set of 64/80 compounds on it now but no results yet


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What size turbine housing on the 63? I have a Billet 63/68/.83 T4 ported on a ported T4 manifold. I have that paired with an 84mm HT4B non gated. I see about 10psi from the primary with 30psi total boost. Haven't gotten on it much with this new set-up.
 
mathews8pt said:
Your going to want/ have to ditch that .88 t4 housing. It's about the worst thing you can run honestly.


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School me! These were built and paired together from E.D. and the previous owner claimed he really liked the way they spooled...
 
Actually I don't think it is a .88, as iirc, those are open scroll. Ill have to look to see exactly what it is because I know mine is a twin scroll.
 
jlbayes said:
that set up should sneeze and make 600hp.
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Lol maybe I just said that so when it lays down a much bigger number I can go ape sh** LOL

Basically this thing is getting built the way I should have done it the first time. I just got my girdle the other day, and i'm currently debating doing 14mm mains. One day id like to upgrade turbos and do a 13mm pump to pull, and I never wanna pull this thing out again.
 
Cozze44 said:
Thats it! I couldn't recall. I was told i'd been fine without a gate, but if this thing acts up and carries on i'm gonna run one on each side of the manifold to keep it fully divided.
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That's good, the .91 housing is a lot better option.

I'd start around 24* timing if it was mine. I run 27* now and it acts pretty good on the street still.


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A couple other things I have been tossing around is my girdle setup. Because this is hopefully the last time I will have to lay eyes on the inside of the motor, assuming no rods fly out the side, I picked up a 3/8 girdle from Trex and am going to 14mm studs. I've been looking into No Limit's billet main caps. I was going to make spacers, mill of the tops of the stock caps and pin it all together for the most rigidity. However I like the idea of eliminating the spacer all together as the billet caps are made taller to eliminate that need. Am I going to far with this or as far as the eventual 1250hp+ goes am I on track?
Also, I was thinking of boring it 20 over, but from what I have read, it doesn't seems the benefits out way the costs, would anyone claim otherwise?
 
Sent out billet timing cover, tappet cover and freeze plugs to get anodized today as multiple in house attempts ended poorly haha. Pretty reasonable to have all of it done, and I felt it was a solid idea to protect them from the rigors of daily driving. Will post up pics of before and after. They will be anodized red.
Also sent out my main bearings and tappets to PolyDyn to have them coated. I have decided against doing any sort of piston coating as much research has turned up that the investment really isn't worth it from most articles I read, and from the advice of a couple engine builders I know.
 
Keepin an eye on this thread, interested in what those chargers will help lay down, im running the same set from ED. Told Chris I wanted to be somewhere in the 800s when he built them for me.

They were pretty wicked with the vp. Cant wait to push them to their full potential with the ppump
 
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Been a while for an update so here it goes:

I have my setup pretty much finalized, meaning I have spent more money then I really ever thought I would on this heap. Got a whole bunch of real nice parts all palletized and heading out to UCF Machine in Carlisle. Plans for machine work are as follows:

Drill and tap for 14mm mains
Line hone mains w/ girdle and billet caps
Punch out block for Cam bearings
Torque plate hone cylinders
Remove intake shelf, drill and tap for side draft intake
Full port job
Delip new SOVP pistons and cut reliefs as needed
Balance rotating assy

Also decided to have them assemble long block. I assembled my own last engine build, but I don't have the proper tooling to properly check clearances, so i'd have more confidence having them do so. Any other suggestions as to work it should have done wil torn while at the shop?
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1450717756.041839.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1450717768.214357.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1450717776.163740.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1450717783.667277.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1450717791.213457.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1450717801.605042.jpg

Getting realllll close. The machine shop doing the work has been great, really looking forward to seeing it in person.
 
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