who do I talk to???

pyrobee

Everything can go faster!
I love diesel, and I anything performance I am looking to get started into the great world of tractor pulling!! nothing major right now just my basic diesel whatever... probably a deer or kubota! I was just wondering what should I do to get started and what is probably the best way to go tractor wise. i would like it to be a deer! if something else is better though I would go with it. I know you probably get tons of these but help me out!!!:thankyou2:
 
Where are you located at?

And from the little I know about tractors...it tends to be cheaper to get more power out of the International tractors...but then again I'm not sure how true this is on a small turbo/non turbo class tractor which you will want to start out with...
 
well I am in Mississippi right now with the Navy but I am from Indiana. I don't know a whole lot about tractors but diesel mechanics I know a good amount about since that is what I do day in and day out. I was thinking more of a little larger tractor something that has a small turbo or what not that I can play with and maybe a cummins since that is what I like the most!!!!

you know anyone that wants a bumper just like yours but chrome? 75 bucks!!
 
well I am in Mississippi right now with the Navy but I am from Indiana. I don't know a whole lot about tractors but diesel mechanics I know a good amount about since that is what I do day in and day out. I was thinking more of a little larger tractor something that has a small turbo or what not that I can play with and maybe a cummins since that is what I like the most!!!!

I'd say do a search for Pulling Associations in Miss. or Indiana and see what classes they have...each association has their own rules and most of the time they post them on their site.

As for the Cummins in a tractor...we've got a few customers in Iowa and Nebraska that run B-Series cummins with an A-Pump instead of the P-Pump and run a 2.75 turbo rule...pretty neat class to watch and it would be a good starter tractor I'd think...
 
Call me a little bias but Internationals are probably the cheapest to build and be very competitive. If you are pulling a turbo diesel, you will need to be in the farmstock classes. A 1066 has a DT-414 that can be turned up quite a bit, with lots of performance parts available. You will be able to get this to 10,000 lbs pretty easy. As far as a Cummins, they are for truck guys, IH and JD motors are capable of making alot more power.
 
Call me a little bias but Internationals are probably the cheapest to build and be very competitive. If you are pulling a turbo diesel, you will need to be in the farmstock classes. A 1066 has a DT-414 that can be turned up quite a bit, with lots of performance parts available. You will be able to get this to 10,000 lbs pretty easy. As far as a Cummins, they are for truck guys, IH and JD motors are capable of making alot more power.

Yep, agreed... I am an AG mechanic by day, tractor puller by night. We build all different colors up for pulling in our shop turbo and NA alike. The IH tractors have a superior head design that flows a TON of air. Depending on your local rules and how close they tend to look at things you are pretty limited on your power outputs in a stock class, but it can still be a lot of fun. 1066 International tractors are a dime a dozen and can be found in varying states of disrepair (you actually want one that is a rag that way it is cheap to buy and you can build it the way you want it). I would talk to your local pump shop as well for a little help with the pump and maybe some redesigned injectors with more smaller holes; you are severely limited by the turbo so you're going to want the best burn you can get. Remember on a stock tractor black smoke is power going out the tube. Also another great tool is a dyno, it is very beneficial to be able to play with your fuel/timing on a dyno to see what works and what doesn't. Most implement dealers have one in house and are pretty reasonable on rates to hook it up.

A deere can make decent power as well depending on the tractor, though they tend to cost quite a bit more to purchase (for some reason people seem to think they are the greatest tractor ever made). <- We see 20 Deere tractors through our shop to every 1 International $.02

Another thing to look into is to go with a Naturally Aspirated tractor first to learn how to pull (there is a LOT more to it than just building a strong tractor). They're easier to build, cost a lot less, and can still be fun while you are learning to pull. Not to mention if you get good at it you can sell your tractor at a premium and put that money towards something bigger and better :evil
 
yeah I think I am going to go NA first and do that whole learning thing lol get some experience under the belt. my buddy back in Indiana has an older wheel horse and an older allis and I might be getting one of those what do you all think about those. I am trying to get a feel for the brands of tractors used since I don't have a lot of experience.
 
yeah I think I am going to go NA first and do that whole learning thing lol get some experience under the belt. my buddy back in Indiana has an older wheel horse and an older allis and I might be getting one of those what do you all think about those. I am trying to get a feel for the brands of tractors used since I don't have a lot of experience.

Depends on the what model Allis you are looking at... Wheel horse? Isn't that a lawn mower?

I would look into your local pulling associations' rules and go from there. Certain tractors have a hard time making it into a class that they would be competitive in (as in they are too heavy for how much power they have). Also, in my experience, the smaller International (Farmall) tractors are easier to balance and generally have a good power to weight ratio. If you want to see an example of how well a Farmall can balance without weights (and the advantage of a Torque Amplifier) take a look here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4GkXPHkiGg and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dp9HTmvmJu0

BTW My tractor has been the points champion 3 years running...
 
about the wheel horse.. told you I am new at this lol just trying to get a feel for everything.
 
An Allis is fine...just realize that most pulling associations cater the rules to fit Green and Red tractors. AC's typically will have to really weight up to fit the class they are required to pull in, and typically, they have a lot smaller tire than an IH or JD...

It's not impossible to be competitive, but it's not as easy as hooking up and going.

Chris
 
I thats what I figured and I might go the JD route first. still considering all options though. thanks for the advice.
 
Don't get me wrong...depending on the rules, an AC can be a real contender...but around here, the rules are written for the JD and IH guys.

Chris
 
yeah I will look into that. hey any of you guys now where I could find the info for my local pullers association or rules??? gulfport MS.
 
You just need to google MS pulling associations. If you are going for a non turbo tractor Everyone above has forgot about Oliver tractors. Diesel or gas they are very strong tractors and I got one that is a good puller for a first time guy like yourself pyrobee that is setup for pulling.

Remember that when looking for a tractor it is best to stay away from a direct gear tractor. Most pullers like going with the bigger Farmall's,IH's you have a torque amplifier giving you basically a lower side to each one of the gears allowing you to keep the engine RPM's up when it lugs down.

Also the Oilver has a 2 speed hydra-power or 3 speed over-under hydra-power in between the clutch and rearend that does basically the same as the torque amplifier but the over-under allows you to go under the gear your in to keep the RPM's up or start out over direct gear and then have two lower selections to shift into to keep your RPM's up. That all works alot better than say a JD that is just in gear and thats all you got till it powers out.
 
Also, some pulling associations don't allow shifting gears, or T/A, over/unders, power directors etc;)

Check it out before you think you're gonna get to use them!

Chris
 
Yeah but most state associations have antique and then super antique classes which will usually allow one shift during pull at least that is my experience with any assoc. I pulled with. They all should have plenty of classes and a good set of rules which in one way or another all match from assoc. to assoc.
 
Also, some pulling associations don't allow shifting gears, or T/A, over/unders, power directors etc;)

Check it out before you think you're gonna get to use them!

Chris

You know it's funny... I get called a cheater all the time for using my TA :bang But it's not my fault that IH was ahead of their time with a shift on the fly. Though, as I found in my rookie year, the TA is great and all, but it requires finesse. If you don't read the track right and pull it too soon, you'll spin out; pull it too late and you won't get your rpm back. In fact on sandy or loose tracks it's best not to pull it at all.

Around here the rules are biased towards JD. The funny part is that when I first started pulling I p***ed a lot of people off in that I had less money invested in my entire tractor than they did in engine machine work (let alone parts) and I always gave them a run for their money :hehe:

Anyway, it doesn't really matter what tractor you find, so long as you like it. Just about any tractor can be made competitive with the right modifications, but it's just a question of how far you want to go and whether or not it will be legal. Just let us know what you decide on and we'll do our best to help you get it set up (for god's sake though if you go JD DON'T get a 2 cylinder)
 
I'm with ya...Our pulling association says you must pull in your lowest gear...in an AC, I'm a whole lot slower than the Deere's, IH's, and even the Olliver's...If I could use the higher side of the power director, it would be about perfect for my tractor.

Oh well, they couldn't tell stock RPM on a D17 Diesel if I told it to them;);)
Chris
 
I agree on the 2cyl. jd's. They are too over rated. Your right to about yanking on the t/a or the hydra-power. On my Oliver when I yank on that my rpm's have to be below 1200 and sometimes after the h/p grabs I have to feather the throttle to keep it from spinning.
 
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