08 F450 6.7 Cummins/Allison swap

N

Nightmare90gt

New member
I am in the process of putting a 6.7 Cummins and Allison 1000 into my 450. I am trying to make it look as factory as possible. I got a few questions.

What all does the TCM control or can it be deleted cause of not using the 5r110?

Does anyone have the a pinout for the transmission harness connector near the driver side of the engine on the frame rail?

Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for the ford pcm harnesses so I can make the gauges work and the Cummins engine wiring so I can start working on that part?

Has anyone figured out how to hook up the Cummins exhaust brake?

I will be using the dodge accelerator pedal instead of the ford will I still be able to run cruise control using the Destroked pedal mount and cruise helper?

Is there a way to make the factory cruise indicator work instead of adding a light that the cruise helper comes with?
 
You are going to want to get a subscription to Mitchell prodemand or a similar source for the schematics. I bought a factory service manual disc on eBay but it has to be run on windows 7 so you can change the date on the PC.



Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
Nice thank you for the reply.

Another question I thought of is the dodge clutch fan controlled with the ford ecm so the ac operates correctly?
 
Nightmare90gt said:
Nice thank you for the reply.

Another question I thought of is the dodge clutch fan controlled with the ford ecm so the ac operates correctly?
Click to expand...
No. You can add the input to your Cummins ECM so that it can actuate the fan. I didn't add fan control to mine and the only issue I've had is the rise in inlet air temp in slow moving traffic. I've considered adding electric fans but my ac is always killer.

I forget about all data. Either way, it's worth it to have the schematics easily accessible because it's a lot of work.

The easiest route for making the gauges on the dash work is weeding out the sensor circuits and using the ford sensors in addition to the Cummins sensors. You can dig through my thread to find out how I did mine.
The temp sensor for the 5r110 is tricky. It clips into the valve body. I bought a new one, adapted some wires to it and epoxied it into a fitting that's in a Tee in the cooler circuit. The oil pressure and coolant temp are fairly easy.

I bought a galaxy hose set for the AC compressor and then had a high side port added and married the hoses to the ford hoses. It's as factory as you can get on that in my opinion. It's the compressor with the vertical ports. Scott posted the part number in my thread. That compressor let's the hard lines clear the frame and the pressure switch sits just above the frame rail below the inner fender.

I could go on, read through my thread. I didn't like how destroked or 90% of the swaps are done. There are a few things I don't have working yet.


I went to swap helpers website to find the cruise helper. The only one I found was the one that uses a throttle cable and an excursion cruise servo. I don't know how they have been making that work with the CR engines that don't use the APPS bell crank and cable throttle.

The Dodge throttle is the easiest, but the throttle rationality only really needs a 1:2 voltage ratio on a 5 volt scale. Circuit two is half the voltage of circuit one. The throttle table also has to be rescaled in EFI live for the other throttle sensors to work. I used an F750 throttle pedal but the pedal position is a little awkward. I've been meaning to 3D print a new pedal but don't want to take mine apart for it.



Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
biggy238 said:
No. You can add the input to your Cummins ECM so that it can actuate the fan. I didn't add fan control to mine and the only issue I've had is the rise in inlet air temp in slow moving traffic. I've considered adding electric fans but my ac is always killer.

I forget about all data. Either way, it's worth it to have the schematics easily accessible because it's a lot of work.

The easiest route for making the gauges on the dash work is weeding out the sensor circuits and using the ford sensors in addition to the Cummins sensors. You can dig through my thread to find out how I did mine.
The temp sensor for the 5r110 is tricky. It clips into the valve body. I bought a new one, adapted some wires to it and epoxied it into a fitting that's in a Tee in the cooler circuit. The oil pressure and coolant temp are fairly easy.

I bought a galaxy hose set for the AC compressor and then had a high side port added and married the hoses to the ford hoses. It's as factory as you can get on that in my opinion. It's the compressor with the vertical ports. Scott posted the part number in my thread. That compressor let's the hard lines clear the frame and the pressure switch sits just above the frame rail below the inner fender.

I could go on, read through my thread. I didn't like how destroked or 90% of the swaps are done. There are a few things I don't have working yet.


I went to swap helpers website to find the cruise helper. The only one I found was the one that uses a throttle cable and an excursion cruise servo. I don't know how they have been making that work with the CR engines that don't use the APPS bell crank and cable throttle.

The Dodge throttle is the easiest, but the throttle rationality only really needs a 1:2 voltage ratio on a 5 volt scale. Circuit two is half the voltage of circuit one. The throttle table also has to be rescaled in EFI live for the other throttle sensors to work. I used an F750 throttle pedal but the pedal position is a little awkward. I've been meaning to 3D print a new pedal but don't want to take mine apart for it.



Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I did go through your thread I will take a look again think I missed some parts. Thank you for the help all the information is very helpful. The main things from destroked I’m using is the ford transmission linkage, transfer case adapter and motor mounts. I wanted to keep factory rubber mounts over the polyurethane that other mounts use.
 
Last edited:
Nightmare90gt said:
I did go through your thread I will take a look again think I missed some parts. Thank you for the help all the information is very helpful. The main things from destroked I’m using is the ford transmission linkage, transfer case adapter and motor mounts. I wanted to keep factory rubber mounts over the polyurethane that other mounts use.
Click to expand...
There may be things I didn't post in the thread. If so, ask and I'll see if I have photos or anything saved.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
biggy238 said:
There may be things I didn't post in the thread. If so, ask and I'll see if I have photos or anything saved.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What did you use to make the upper radiator hose?

are the 6174808 power steering fittings both the same or is one a different part number?

did you use the power steering bracket that came on the Cummins engine?
 
Nightmare90gt said:
What did you use to make the upper radiator hose?



are the 6174808 power steering fittings both the same or is one a different part number?



did you use the power steering bracket that came on the Cummins engine?
Click to expand...
Upper is a 3rd gen hose sectioned out with a piece of exhaust pipe painted with bead rolls at the ends and gates SB clamps to hold the hose on the ends. I think the lower is the 3rd gen too.

I don't recall on the PS fittings but I know I adapted them to AN. I feel like they were two different thread sizes.

The pump is the 6.4 pump with the CR pulley pressed on and the CR bracket installed. The pulley doesn't sit as deep as the original to make it align with the belt. The suction inlet has to be rotated to get the hose on it. I think I sectioned out an 11+ suction hose because the first one I built rubbed and started leaking.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
Should just need two straight rad adapters.
9855c03050efce7788365b8f24e4fe17.jpg
e423508fcf1139fcdc47b673c875bef2.jpg
63155088dd9ac2d39586985a9f527242.jpg
3260890341fd7c575f1d1530a10668bd.jpg
43d32d4ec28360275d8508afbcbb760f.jpg
9fb7b1b85aec3a3d6608c1bf020c3279.jpg
8d287b4abe2b0d3ed2cc938e1d33619c.jpg


Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
thatguy69 said:
What're those hose clamps you're using that gloss black?
Click to expand...
Booooooy you better start reading. I posted what they were and Scott even linked them.

They are Gates SB clamps. I got mine from wirecare. There's something to the diameters though. I think they are sized by the clamped diameter maybe ?.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
biggy238 said:
Booooooy you better start reading. I posted what they were and Scott even linked them.

They are Gates SB clamps. I got mine from wirecare. There's something to the diameters though. I think they are sized by the clamped diameter maybe ?.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That's what I get for opening this thread earlier in the day and not refreshing it before I replied. Those look sweet, but the one time use turns me off. And if you lost one on the road your kinda up shit creek
 
I don't see them being any different than the OE parts. The only thing I didn't like about them is whatever they use to cut the product doesn't make the two edges parallel. I took a zip wheel and trued mine before I installed them.

And if you lost one of them, a clamp wasn't going to save you anyway.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
They come factory on our IC buses. We’ve not had a single one fail in eight years. There’s a special tool to cut them off without cutting the hose. When the techs remove one, it’s replaced with a worm gear clamp.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top