Building a 6.4 Cummins the CORRECT way

Building a race engine shouldn't be brand specific, but, parts specific ex. forged pistons or cast pistons, cast crank or forged crank, undersized bearings yada yada yada. Tolerances in spec, adequate clearances, reliable engine oil, component prep, proper installation, engine break-in (including break in your roller lifters) all amount to your success. Remove stress risers and other aspects once everything is magnafluxed or dye crack tested good. The only thing about magnaflux testing mind you is with ferrous engine parts you can magnetize them and if they end up magnetized and you can not de-magnatize them they are junk. Doesn't happen much, but when it does oh boy.

Drag racing you need acceleration, I am not sure if a straight line engine is as effected as a vee configuration. Regardless the long rod will relieve cylinder wall thrust pressure due to reduced angle. If you decide on a offset wrist pin how much would it reduce rock if your compression height was raised proportional to that with an adequate area to cool the piston underside with an oil nozzle.

I am curious, are there any chances to reduce bearing speeds within any of the Cummins mills without sacrificing the rod journals?
 
Diamond, Ross and Wiseco make pistons . I have used all three , including the new billet ones , and I'm a vendor and a master WD for all three.

Interesting, considering the market segment manager for Wiseco Performance Parts informed me today that you are not a dealer. They have produced pistons for Nitrous Express in the past, but last time I checked you didn't own that business.
 
Interesting, considering the market segment manager for Wiseco Performance Parts informed me today that you are not a dealer. They have produced pistons for Nitrous Express in the past, but last time I checked you didn't own that business.

how many set of Wiseco piston do you want? I have no problem getting them as MWD , and you do not know the name of my engine development group
 
Well Greg, they knew you by name, and again said you were not a dealer, I assume you could be riding someone else's coattails like usual. Why must you insist on telling lies to try and bolster your reputation?
 
Well Greg, they knew you by name, and again said you were not a dealer, I assume you could be riding someone else's coattails like usual. Why must you insist on telling lies to try and bolster your reputation?

again how many sets do you want . ill make you a smoking deal to prove it . how about $1 over MWD .
 
Building a race engine shouldn't be brand specific, but, parts specific ex. forged pistons or cast pistons, cast crank or forged crank, undersized bearings yada yada yada. Tolerances in spec, adequate clearances, reliable engine oil, component prep, proper installation, engine break-in (including break in your roller lifters) all amount to your success. Remove stress risers and other aspects once everything is magnafluxed or dye crack tested good. The only thing about magnaflux testing mind you is with ferrous engine parts you can magnetize them and if they end up magnetized and you can not de-magnatize them they are junk. Doesn't happen much, but when it does oh boy.

Drag racing you need acceleration, I am not sure if a straight line engine is as effected as a vee configuration. Regardless the long rod will relieve cylinder wall thrust pressure due to reduced angle. If you decide on a offset wrist pin how much would it reduce rock if your compression height was raised proportional to that with an adequate area to cool the piston underside with an oil nozzle.

I am curious, are there any chances to reduce bearing speeds within any of the Cummins mills without sacrificing the rod journals?

You can Demag parts, magnafluxed is not near as bad on that as you might think.

as to rod length , I like a longer rod , to a point. When we were doing small inch motors the rod to stroke got crazy, over 2.0 to 1. When I got the very first low deck Chevy, we went with a very short rod and piston, the motor made good power, but the important part, is it didn't lose as much at high acceleration rates.


The diesel cylinder heads, even the new heads are still suffering in flow, shorter strokes are a help in decreasing displacement, especial in limited air situations.
If I was going to design a purpose build 2.5 or 2.6 engine first I personal would use a Dmax. But if you have to use a Cummins then the biggest bore within reason to maximize valve area and unshrouding. The stroke would be in the area of 4.5 to 4.25.

I would use the smaller rod journal size and smaller rod, and go to a Dmax, or even a 1.156 top fuel wrist pin.
I still have a Cummins 4.00 crank I did for land speed and it is really trick out of a stock shaft.
I was able to take 28 lbs of weight off of it and with decent rods and pistons the weight reduction could be in the neighborhood of 50 to 60 lbs The rod bearing is a off the shelf part and over .300 smaller than the stock Cummins
 
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again how many sets do you want . ill make you a smoking deal to prove it . how about $1 over MWD .

The Cummins piston Wiseco is producing is my bowl design, so I am not in need of your assistance Greg. I also sent Nick and Brian a link to your comments here, don't be surprised if the dealer you are using pays the price.
 
The Cummins piston Wiseco is producing is my bowl design, so I am not in need of your assistance Greg. I also sent Nick and Brian a link to your comments here, don't be surprised if the dealer you are using pays the price.

oh well

so can you add to this thread , or just want to pout
 
The diesel market is so fortunate to have you involved Greg, and as to Wiseco's response;

I wouldn’t give it a second thought Weston. He couldn’t get them for CWD from any of us and a dealer isn’t going to sell them to him and lose money.
 
The diesel market is so fortunate to have you involved Greg, and as to Wiseco's response;

my partners that I share my accounts with shares theirs as well , and I will assures you they by many times what you will ever , so make yourself look like a fool.

I personal use JE

again do you want a set
 
my partners that I share my accounts with shares theirs as well , and I will assures you they by many times what you will ever , so make yourself look like a fool.

I personal use JE

again do you want a set
No offense to anyone. Just shut up.
 
my partners that I share my accounts with shares theirs as well , and I will assures you they by many times what you will ever , so make yourself look like a fool.

When did this turn into a "my friends buy more pistons than you do" argument?

again do you want a set

Why on Earth would I go through you to get a set of pistons they I can get from Wiseco myself?

Real problem here Greg is that you have been proven to be a liar, why should anyone believe anything you say to be true?
 
When did this turn into a "my friends buy more pistons than you do" argument?



Why on Earth would I go through you to get a set of pistons they I can get from Wiseco myself?

Real problem here Greg is that you have been proven to be a liar, why should anyone believe anything you say to be true?


prove me to be a liar about anything . but you intend to make this about you


now back to the short stroke 6.7.
 
Weston, how do the Wiseco pistons compare in price to Ross and Arias?
How about quality? Same, better, less?

It is good to see others enter the market. Used the wiseco for years in small engine apps!
 
prove me to be a liar about anything.

Well, I already have. You are not a dealer or warehouse distributor like you claim, your "friend" is.

Weston, how do the Wiseco pistons compare in price to Ross and Arias? How about quality? Same, better, less?

Price is very competitive, quality should be backed by their experience/reputation in the forged piston market.

It is good to see others enter the market. Used the wiseco for years in small engine apps!

It is really good to see other companies interested in this market, and the guys at Wiseco are really good to deal with.
 
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