ATI damper for CR

Howling

Howling

Soot Sniffer
Talked with someone at ATI yesterday and asked them when are they going to have a damper avalible for the cr motors.He stated around the end of Nov.

Probably will add one over the winter,we run them on several dmax builds we have done and like them.
 
ATI dampers are the best, we use them on all our cars. i have heard and seen some crazy things happen to some small block chevy engines with Fluidamprs.
 
Ya I heard thier about ready to release the CR version also, I just ordered one for my 12v last week. Ended up going with thier Race version #917365C
it has the ribs for the belt machined off for those that dont need it, and saves some rotating assembley weight. I believe Im the 8th one to purchase one, how else here runs one on a 12v and how do you like it? The 360* timing marks are going to be very handy as well..
 
I've got one on my 02 and the timing marks do make timing the pump alot easier! Just wish they would have countersunk ALL the bolts so they would clear the stock fan :(
 
Also found it's only 8.074" in dia. as oppose of the 9.250" of my stocker, this should save quite a bit of weight. Also a BBC crank trigger wheel is 9" so it should adapt nicely on a 8" dampner..
 
Well just got the damper, looks like a nice enough piece but I find the way it has to go on wierd? It came shiped in two seperate pieces; the outer ring and inner hub they will only bolt together in one way; that made since. But what doesnt is that once together it cant be bolted to the crank with the suppied crank bolts due to the large built on washer. It appears that they want you to install the hub 'then' bolt on the outer ring; I dont understand why though. When I bolted them together it was an interferance fit so its going to be a ***** to get apart if this is what they expect each time the unit is removed from the engine? Anyone?
 
Both the hub to the crank (4 bolts). Then the damper to the hub (2x6 bolts). The hub should slip on and off the damper with minimal effort if the orings are properly seated in the grooves.
 
I can get the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the crank off without disassembling my dampner... you just need a thin walled socket. I used a 15mm 3/8" drive.
 
stock600 said:
Ya I heard thier about ready to release the CR version also, I just ordered one for my 12v last week. Ended up going with thier Race version #917365C
it has the ribs for the belt machined off for those that dont need it, and saves some rotating assembley weight. I believe Im the 8th one to purchase one, how else here runs one on a 12v and how do you like it? The 360* timing marks are going to be very handy as well..
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We got 2 of them for 12 valve's 2yrs ago like them alot we made some tone wheel for tack pickups
Dale
Ford_Dash_003.jpg

Tone_wheel_004.jpg
 
Ya I got it on today. Had to run down to my machine shop and end mill the .750" index hole a .250" deeper though. I had ATI mill off the serp. belt part of the hub but when they did they didnt think about needing to make the hole deeper for the cranks index center to go through it. Once that was done it went on w/o a prob. It's getting the bolts through it that wont happen not getting to the head with a socket, the bolts it came with and the stockers have a big shoulder or like built in washer that enables it to fit through after assembley. For the future I will mill off enough of it to fit through, I see no reason to disassemble the damper just to take it off the engine. I also bolted on the BBC trigger wheel and fabbed up a bracket and sensor to read rpm to the Racepak. Ryan
 
stock600 said:
Ya I got it on today. Had to run down to my machine shop and end mill the .750" index hole a .250" deeper though. I had ATI mill off the serp. belt part of the hub but when they did they didnt think about needing to make the hole deeper for the cranks index center to go through it. Once that was done it went on w/o a prob. It's getting the bolts through it that wont happen not getting to the head with a socket, the bolts it came with and the stockers have a big shoulder or like built in washer that enables it to fit through after assembley. For the future I will mill off enough of it to fit through, I see no reason to disassemble the damper just to take it off the engine. I also bolted on the BBC trigger wheel and fabbed up a bracket and sensor to read rpm to the Racepak. Ryan
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Put the bolts through the hub, then put the dampner on the hub and leave the bolts in it... Now you don't have to worry about the 4 bolts falling out and getting lost :D They come out far enough to seperate from the crank, but won't fall out of the dampner.
 
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