ATI damper for CR

[stock600]

Put the bolts through the hub, then put the dampner on the hub and leave the bolts in it... Now you don't have to worry about the 4 bolts falling out and getting lost They come out far enough to seperate from the crank, but won't fall out of the dampner.

Well there ya go. Id thought of that but.... it's not going to require much material off the bolt head; and the trigger wheel needs the I.D. machined down a bit to enable a socket in there to bar the engine over. Had to go back with the factory 4 crank bolts as well:doh:, the long ones that they sent with it was for before they milled off the serp. pulley:doh:.

 

[JFlagg]

Well there ya go. Id thought of that but.... it's not going to require much material off the bolt head; and the trigger wheel needs the I.D. machined down a bit to enable a socket in there to bar the engine over. Had to go back with the factory 4 crank bolts as well:doh:, the long ones that they sent with it was for before they milled off the serp. pulley:doh:.

I used a spare deep well socket in the 1 1/4" area and just cut four notches in it to slide onto the hub. Add 1/2" drive breaker bar and their ya go

 

[stock600]

I used a spare deep well socket in the 1 1/4" area and just cut four notches in it to slide onto the hub. Add 1/2" drive breaker bar and their ya go

Ahh, I see what your saying.... good idea. Plus turning it from the center would be smoother and not require to keep moving the socket to the next bolt at each 90* or so. Good idea. It was a tight fit but w/o the trigger wheel in place a 3/8 drive socket fit, once I turn the CTWheel down I'll have the option of doing it either way. The damper seemed to lessen to "shake" at idle for sure, the engine is ridged and it shakes the piss out of it:doh:. One thing I found odd though; my stocker weighs 14# and this ATI 'with the serp. missing' still weighs 19#, From thier ad I expected it to be lighter? Exp. from the factory piece.....