Auto Trans Cooler Lines
- Thread starter RockinRam96
- Start date
RockinRam96
New member
Thanks guys. What about the treads going into the water jacketed cooler behind the engine block? Are they pipe thread or JIC thread?
RockinRam96
New member
Got this all done today. Ended up going with hydraulic hose. Had to do a little bit of thinking to utilize what NAPA had and what I needed, had to utilize some of the old hardline to use the original bushings at the trans. Wanted to do the braided stainless or clamped on hose but I just don’t like not being able to hold onto the parts before I buy them. Turned out pretty good I though. Took a lot more fluid than I expected.
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RockinRam96
New member
That is the pressure side that goes to the cooler behind the block. I ran it up because if I ran it the way it did from the factory the fittings on the hydraulic hose would have gotten in the way of the shift linkage.
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SixOhh
EPA unfriendly
Here in texas, in my shop at least.... i remove the trans fluid "warmer" on the block. Down here its already 100* at startup and that junk just heats up the trans temp to coolant temp.
I run all Hydraulic lines, no trans fluid warmer on the block and the thermostat in the trans cooler gets bypassed. my trans runs 100-120 in the winter and 120-160 in the summer, just the way i like it.
a trans rarely fails from being too cold.... overheating is a different story. Anything over 180* is too hot for me. IMO
I also control the trans temp with tow haul and the A/C system to max out the fan clutch.
I run all Hydraulic lines, no trans fluid warmer on the block and the thermostat in the trans cooler gets bypassed. my trans runs 100-120 in the winter and 120-160 in the summer, just the way i like it.
a trans rarely fails from being too cold.... overheating is a different story. Anything over 180* is too hot for me. IMO
I also control the trans temp with tow haul and the A/C system to max out the fan clutch.
CorneliusRox
Seasoned Rookie
That looks very OEM. I like it.
You should share the part names you used. Did you crimp them yourself, or buy specific lengths, and then used compression fittings (sorry if you can see them better on a computer, I'm on my cell)
I'm not saying you're wrong, but lots of people have had really good luck using the heat exchanger ('warmer' as you call it) to keep the trans fluid temps in check. I ran without one for a bit and my temps got kinda high, tossed it back on and don't ever seem to have issues now.
I use a lower stall TC, but especially if I was running a 2200rpm or higher TC, I'd really want that feature.
RockinRam96
New member
Thanks. That's kinda what I was going for. Was going to go down the route you did but I have a hard time ordering parts before I can hold them. I can most certainly put a list together. Really just hydraulic hose and two hydraulic fittings. I had pre-measured the hoses and had NAPA crimp them. they are all a little long, but I like them that way.
Flaring the aluminum lines was a little more difficult that I anticipated. They are pretty damn thick at the cooler!
Mine runs a little hotter than I'd like to see, and I'm not quite sure why. It runs about between 172 deg and 186 deg cursing around town and down the highway (according to my Edge anyway). My though with eliminating the cooler behind the block, is that it would run cooler. But I suppose the fluid is coming out of the trans, though the cooler behind the block, essentially cooling it to 190 deg (water temp) and the front cooler is cooling the fluid down ever further. The trans fluid temp sensor is in the cooler behind block, so it would make sense that the fluid is only slightly cooler than operating temperature.
CorneliusRox
Seasoned Rookie
I measure at the pan and when I didn't have the heat exchanger, I went up to 190-200F, tossed it back in there and it's usually around 160-180. I'm a big believer.
The Derale trans coolers are pretty popular too.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15820?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-derale-cooling-products&gclid=CjwKCAjwj8bPBRBiEiwASlFLFecyJHLnJFzWbp8WTZt6cRihE2-LyIVD-jlFGf3zj_yWZOzSsOlnkRoCsGsQAvD_BwE
The double with fan an tstat is really nice, but pricey.
RockinRam96
New member
I'd be nice to measure temp at the pan. But being that my Edge pulls it from the ECU, I'd have to weld a bung in the pan and move the sensor. Little more than I'd like to get into. I did put a drain in my pan, which I like the way it turned out.
Its to bad there wasn't a little more room between the CAC and the trans cooler. Could just get a small Flex-a-lite to put on the tans cooler.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-106/overview/
CorneliusRox
Seasoned Rookie
You could always mount it in front and build a shroud to keep the air going where you want, but I really think getting away from the hot radiator/intercooler/AC condenser would be best.
SixOhh
EPA unfriendly
Cornelius, i also think it depends on how one drives and where you are driving, towing ETC.... I have a tight converter, i rarely tow heavy and i always put my truck in neutral at a stop light. When i had the camper i always planned my route to avoid stop and go traffic and i drove in a manner that would keep my converter locked more so.
if i see 180* i am pulling over and going to high idle. i went thru a LOT of trans parts before i went to goerend (learning as i go) so i dont mess around when it comes to heat soaking in there.
on a related note, the chevy trucks and newer JKU jeeps seem to go to about 200-235* from the factory... makes you wonder!
if i see 180* i am pulling over and going to high idle. i went thru a LOT of trans parts before i went to goerend (learning as i go) so i dont mess around when it comes to heat soaking in there.
on a related note, the chevy trucks and newer JKU jeeps seem to go to about 200-235* from the factory... makes you wonder!
RockinRam96
New member
Pullin a 2 horse trailer with two horses, probably grossing 10,000 lb, cruising at 65, haven’t seen anything over 186* today. Ambient temp has been in the low 40s. Pretty happy with that.
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RockinRam96
New member
So, I bought this truck in Utah back in March. When I was looking at it I did not notice any ATF under the truck and the fluid looked and smelled great (not blaming the dealer for knowing this and not disclosing it). It was a 2,000 mile trip home. I started noticing a little hesitation/ shudder about 500 miles from home. I stopped to get fuel and checked the fluid and it was very low. Admittedly, I've stupidly been driving around for the past 6 months with the leak, keeping an eye on the level. This truck is not my daily driver so it doesn't get many miles put on it. It is just at the point of an oil change, and I last changed it in march when I got home.
Well, the shudder is getting worse. The trans will shift through all the gears flawlessly, but when it shifts into OD and drops right into peak torque it will shudder. I can drive it in a way that it doesn't happen but still don't like it. I am guessing the clutches are warn from lack of fluid. Any thoughts? Can I try adjusting the bands and get away with it?
Well, the shudder is getting worse. The trans will shift through all the gears flawlessly, but when it shifts into OD and drops right into peak torque it will shudder. I can drive it in a way that it doesn't happen but still don't like it. I am guessing the clutches are warn from lack of fluid. Any thoughts? Can I try adjusting the bands and get away with it?