Auto Trans Cooler Lines

RockinRam96

RockinRam96

Active member
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Messages
2,700
I'm sure most of you have experienced the biggest problem with the aluminum transmission cooler lines. I have one that has rubbed against the starter and created a leak. Of course it is the line that goes from the back of the transmission all the way to the front cooler. Have any of you guys come up with a good solution to solve this problem?

On my 96 I used hydraulic hose, but it was a pain in the ass to get the hydraulic hose over the lines coming out of the cooler, and I'm not sure how good of a solution that was.

Also, what are everyone's thoughts on eliminating the water jacket cooler? A couple years ago the cooler in my dads truck went bad and started putting ATF in the water. The shop eliminated it rather than installing a new one. We don't haul anything heavy to really worry about trans temps.

Thanks in advance.
 
I deleted mine. I used braided stainless and AN fittings, with an auxiliary cooler in the bed. . For tying into the factory cooler I just used a pipe cutter and used compression fittings to Npt to AN.
 
Cflanery88 said:
I deleted mine. I used braided stainless and AN fittings, with an auxiliary cooler in the bed. . For tying into the factory cooler I just used a pipe cutter and used compression fittings to Npt to AN.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of flaring the factory cooler lines but I only have a flaring tool to flare brake lines, are they an AN flare?

I may order some line from Summit and do this myself rather than buying factory hard lines.
 
I bought a Summit flaring tool and it worked great. I used Earl AN fittings and Auroquip line. I haven't had a single issue since I did it four years ago.
 
What size line -6 AN. I am guessing the existing lines are about 3/8".

I am linking Dodge is going to want an arm and a leg for these lines. While I am at it might as well eliminate the cooler, too.

Cflanery88 said:
I deleted mine. I used braided stainless and AN fittings, with an auxiliary cooler in the bed. . For tying into the factory cooler I just used a pipe cutter and used compression fittings to Npt to AN.
Click to expand...

When you eliminated the water jacketed cooler, did you disconnect the water lines to the cooler or leave them in place?
 
Last edited:
No need to remove the cooler. It works really well to keep your trans temps down and an aftermarket cooler is going to take up more space and do a worse job.
 
-8 line. I used all pushloc hose and fittings. There are adapters for the ones out of the transmisison.
 
Anyone have a parts list they want to share? I don’t have time to order the wrong parts.

Also, what flaring tool do I need? I have one for a single flare for brake line but is the is the same angle as AN fittings?

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Why not just cut the tube and install a swedge lock fitting? Simple way to eliminate the cracked area and couple the line together.

This would get you by for a long time until you decide which fittings and line sizes are needed to convert over.
 
CorneliusRox said:
No need to remove the cooler. It works really well to keep your trans temps down and an aftermarket cooler is going to take up more space and do a worse job.
Click to expand...

And allows the engine to bring the trans to a desirable operating temp during the winter months.
 
Red Sleeper said:
Why not just cut the tube and install a swedge lock fitting? Simple way to eliminate the cracked area and couple the line together.

This would get you by for a long time until you decide which fittings and line sizes are needed to convert over.
Click to expand...

Because the fluid is drained out of the trans and it is all already torn apart.
 
Everything is -8 AN

Hose:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCV0810

Flare tool (I've only used it a few times, but it did a perfect job):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311

AN fittings needed (I used barb, had a line come off once, so now I have hose clamps on top of them. You could do compression or PTC instead if you wanted. Just don't trust the barb alone):
Sleeve:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at981908erl/overview/
Barb:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at720186erl/overview/
Nut:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT981808ERL


I think this is the one you need to come straight off of the transmission (don't quote me on that though):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT916188ERL


You're welcome.
 
I did all -8 and deleted the water to fluid cooler on the block . I also did away with the ****ty cooler on the radiator and replaced it with a 6.0 ford auto trans cooler. It works great and keeps the trans plenty cool in the Texas heat eaven pulling my 13k 5th wheel .
 
I welded -8 fittings on the ford cooler and run all stainless braided lines , no problems to date .
 
One thing to add. My wife reminded me that I had the hose come off the barb when I was using cheaper 'fuel-line grade' hose. After she said that, I remembered how much more force the Aeroquip took to push onto the barb. It'd probably be fine. Either way, I still run hose clams because I want to reduce the risk of spilling trans fluid on the expressway again! :lolly:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top