24v p-pump and build

Ghostman

Ghostman

24v crazy
I have searched and read just about every thread on here. Looking for someone with direct experience on the subject. I am considering picking up one of these for my swap. I am also considering the adjustable gear and think this would be the only real reason to need to have access to the gear via the removable cover? Also, if the stock vp cover is used, what are most using to cover the pump access hole. I hear that if the factory puke breather is used in that location there can be issues with excessive puking of oil due to the pump blowing it out the front into the breather. Once a person picks up on how to adjust the timing, it really is fairly easy from what I gather. Is it just a really nice feature to have the gear and cover, or would some look back and wish they had done this? Could it be money better spent elsewhere, ie: cam and bolt on retainer?

Additionally, I have just about all my parts for the swap.
-175HP pump(untouched)
-re-bend 24v lines(I'll attempt this before I buy)
-timing case
-pump gear
-plumbing of fuel and oil lines (easily sourced)
-oil restrictor to feed on driver side of pump
-looking at cams, haven't decided yet
-re-use 24v timing front cover?
-JD billet tappet cover??(use for breathers, seems some have issues sealing
after swaps are done, might get one.)
-12v throttle linkage assembly, all I need is 12v throttle cable
-pump support bracket
-still need the FSS(dang those are expensive)
-need the cam sensor adapter(looking at JDs, heard someone made one
with an o-ring instead of using silicone, anyone know whos that is?)
-I'm sure I'm missing a few things here and there

As far as the pump goes, was looking at picking up a set of 4gsk before putting the pump in as I hear its easier to install them with the pump out. Setting it up for dual feed, and a mack plug. I heard CDS has good prices and parts, thoughts? I'll run the plate and DVs it has for now till I get everything going then tune it once its running and determine if I need more fuel.

Thanks.

Truck info:
01 QCSB 4x4, HO motor, weston's 6x13s with pattern slightly tightened to ~151*, super b over a GT42
 
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I'm also on the debate on cams or aftermarket pump gear. More than likely, I won't do either, but im really thinking cam since its already apart. The truck runs good as is with the compounds, just needs more fuel.
 
Headcase98002 said:
I'm also on the debate on cams or aftermarket pump gear. More than likely, I won't do either, but im really thinking cam since its already apart. The truck runs good as is with the compounds, just needs more fuel.
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I need a cam because I want the fuel pump lobe for another idea I'm working on and a bolt on gear and plus since its apart, might as well I guess.
 
If the pump was cooperative, I could do the timing on my 24v in 45 minutes with a dial doing plunger lift. I could remove the #1 line by itself without anything else coming off, which made it nice. Can't do that on my 12v. That being said, I did go to an adjustable pump. Turns that quick job into a 5 minute job, and thats a nice leisurely pace. Obviously, you need a modified front cover to take advantage of it.

24v front cover is identical to the 12v cover. Only difference is what screws into the front. 12v had the oil filler neck, most 24v had the breather and tube, and some had a flat cover that the dealerships would put on when they retrofitted a 12v tappet cover. I ran the stock 24v breather in the front, never had any oil coming out that wasn't before.

If you've never messed with a p-pump before, install the GSK after you get it running. Yes, its harder to install, but its much easier to help sort out the pump when it runs normally before you mess with it.
 
adjustable pump gear is the only way to go. period. Timing can't slip, once you have your baseline you don't have to pull fuel lines or DV's to change timing. You never get paranoid about "what if my timing slipped" when trying to dial in tuning and something isn't right. In my mind it's a no brainer if you've got the cash.
 
Well I did end up ordering a billet tappet cover from JD and he threw in the cam sensor adapter for free!
 
You'll be happy with the adjustable gear. It doesn't really save that much time, but it's nice that won't slip, and that you have the reference points.
 
I have both his billet cover and adjustable gear. It's the only way to go! Like mentioned before, you actually use the key way that's already cut into the shaft, with no chance of slipping. Makes timing changes quick and easy. And with his gear you can also advance or retard timing in 1* increments.
 
blackstacks said:
And with his gear you can also advance or retard timing in 1* increments.
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His website says 2* increments.

I definitely like the idea of an adjustable gear for the reasons listed and will probably get one when I do my timing. I won't change my timing that much, but I like knowing it won't slip.
 
Each hole is 2 degrees but you can adjust in 1 degree increments if needed. I have plenty in stock for anyone needing one.
 
I'm need to source the threaded bushing to bush the holes for the throttle bracket down to the appropriate bolt size. Also need the bolts to bolt on the throttle bracket and a 12v throttle cable. Best place to source these? Snedge? Might also end up need a few other little throttle pieces once I get it on. The local cummins guys suck.
 
Cummins told me they could not order any throttle pieces because they were dodge parts. I got a new rod and ends from dodge so they might have what you need
 
Try this

Ghostman said:
I'm need to source the threaded bushing to bush the holes for the throttle bracket down to the appropriate bolt size. Also need the bolts to bolt on the throttle bracket and a 12v throttle cable. Best place to source these? Snedge? Might also end up need a few other little throttle pieces once I get it on. The local cummins guys suck.
Click to expand...

Cummins guys do suck sometimes. I know of one that tries not to. :)


Give the guys that suck part numbers. Maybe they won't suck ???

Here is a list I have from days of old.

P7100 conversion less pump and injection lines.

Pump mounting

3969698 seal
3923083 oil line for pump supply
3933291 T fitting
3931382 pump drive gear
3920921 nut
3920922 washer
4003580 bracket
3927646 bracket
3901445 bolt
3913366 bolt (2)
3900630 bolt (2)
3937123 stud (4)
3902662 nut (4)

Gear housing

3936256 gear housing
3918673 cover gsk
3938156 housing to block gsk
3937111 crank seal
3008400 Vac pump mnt gsk

Linkage

3922317 rod
3931559 bracket assembly
3900629 bolt (3)
3931527 lever gov.
3093946 nut
3990112
3932222 bolt (2)
3933130 spring
3925377 spring
3931510 spring

There. Don't say I never gave you anything.
 
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