will24
That guy
Sadly, it will bring it! Take a look at the machinery Pete page for some crazy numbers!
Sent from my flashscan v2
4020 took a dump. Ideas?
- Thread starter 4x4dually
- Start date
Sadly, it will bring it! Take a look at the machinery Pete page for some crazy numbers!
Sent from my flashscan v2
Big Boy Toys
New member
Ya some of the stuff he covers brings some big money. I've got a soft spot for those tractors but not $75,000 worth of soft spot! lol
Signature600
THA MAN!
I doubt that. Your best bet there is going to be a junkyard engine to take all the stuff off of.
Get me the serial number and I can get you a price. There are a few ranges for them.
Yeah, trash.
What I use on older tractors like that is Hy-Capacity. I've used them for years, good stuff, and good people. Have a warranty on parts, and labor on certain items, and rarely do we have any trouble.
Chris
Found a 4020 repair kit for ya!
I have nothing to add here other than I want a black stripe in the worst possible way.
Sent from My phone while the Boss wasn't looking.
4x4dually
Moderator
That's because they didn't have grounds in '68. It was all virtual power back then. If you reverse the sinusoidal fam in the altimider, the system thinks it is grounded when in fact it is only a mock 3 phase. Swap any two phase conductors and the blinkers will blink the opposite direction.
Dtruck1
Engineer
:hehe:
That and they didn't have fuel shut off solenoids until the console models.
will24
That guy
It is weird how they jumped around with that... our 69 side console 4020 has the solenoid but the way newer 2640 still has the lever...
Sounds like it ran out of oil!!!!
4x4dually
Moderator
No. If you swap any two phases, it will just reverse. If you put on the left blinker, the right one will come on and vice versa. :hehe:
Oil showed to be good. Middle of the "good" zone on the dipstick. I'm feeling better today. I might get it up to the shop in the next day or two. I can finally walk half way normal today.
4x4dually
Moderator
Got the ol' slug pulled up to the barn yesterday.
Hyd pump is ok. We uncoupled it and it spins ok and pumps.
Took inspection plate off IP. The lower half of the IP is not turning, meaning, the top part with the timing mark is visible, but the lower half of it will not spin at all when being cranked. Also, took off an injection line....no fuel when cranking. Fuel feed to the IP is good as it will squirt using the manual priming pump.
So.....it is either cam gear broke, the cam itself snapped somewhere, or the oil pump/inj pump drive is toasted.
I think I'll pull the valve cover and watch the valves when cranking. I should be able to tell the status of the cam doing that. I have a feeling the first couple cylinders worth of valves or so will move....and the back half won't. If it all moves, I'll have to pull the IP and take a look at the bottom of it. Maybe I just lost the oil pump. Who knows. All I see is $$$ signs.
Hyd pump is ok. We uncoupled it and it spins ok and pumps.
Took inspection plate off IP. The lower half of the IP is not turning, meaning, the top part with the timing mark is visible, but the lower half of it will not spin at all when being cranked. Also, took off an injection line....no fuel when cranking. Fuel feed to the IP is good as it will squirt using the manual priming pump.
So.....it is either cam gear broke, the cam itself snapped somewhere, or the oil pump/inj pump drive is toasted.
I think I'll pull the valve cover and watch the valves when cranking. I should be able to tell the status of the cam doing that. I have a feeling the first couple cylinders worth of valves or so will move....and the back half won't. If it all moves, I'll have to pull the IP and take a look at the bottom of it. Maybe I just lost the oil pump. Who knows. All I see is $$$ signs.
4x4dually
Moderator
Apparently, the IP shaft has a "fuse" machined into it, a small diameter spot were it can shear if the pump locks up and keep the failure from taking out cam and gears.
I was told that I could take the four bolts out of the speed/hour meter housing and look down into it and see the cam and gears. If those are good and turn with the starter....the IP shaft is toast. Probably due to dirt getting in it or something.
Anyone had this failure and have words of wisdom?
Also taking recommendation for those qualified shops that can fix/rebuild this pump if it is toast. The new shafts can be had for $100 or so. Anyone recommend someone that can rebuild Roosa Master pumps?
I was told that I could take the four bolts out of the speed/hour meter housing and look down into it and see the cam and gears. If those are good and turn with the starter....the IP shaft is toast. Probably due to dirt getting in it or something.
Anyone had this failure and have words of wisdom?
Also taking recommendation for those qualified shops that can fix/rebuild this pump if it is toast. The new shafts can be had for $100 or so. Anyone recommend someone that can rebuild Roosa Master pumps?
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