Slight performance build on a 518

Anyone know of a upgraded reverse band anchor, I lost reverse again this morning.

Yup buy a 47rh/re. Goerend told me the biggest reason they don't touch 46rhs is because reverse band is weak and not enough band apply to hold it. I can't even count the 46s I've done where the rear band is deteriorating. Happens a lot from the od piston support being wore out and letting the drum ride on the band at times.
 
Last time the anchor came apart, it's just kind of peined together and popped apart, haven't seen the inside yet this time.
 
Talked to Dave Goerend yesterday apparently at the very least find the later case to use, the non lockup convertor can still be used and the reverse stuff would be upgraded.
 
open sesame
:thankyou2:

I bought a core 518 off of Mark Nixon this weekend. I did the quick/basic dismantle job on it and found that the front clutch was toast to the point that the friction material was burned off of the discs. Also the front (I think, I can't remember now) aluminum planet had some wear one it. That explained the aluminum shavings in the pan. The pump looked worn, but I'll have to post up a pic of it to get a second opinion.

I have a PM in to LAmiller on parts, but understandably I've not heard back so I'll have to make time to call the him.

I did some searching around and if I read correctly, it's the front planet that's the weaker one, correct? If that's the case, I don't care if it's worn because I want to replace it anyways. Once again, if my searching serves me correctly, I'd need to upgrade to a 47 series intermediate to accommodate the different pitch pinions. Does it end there? I don't have the trans in front of me.
 
I've ordered hard parts, which included a new front planetary, a 47 series intermediate shaft, and a new pump.

It turns out that for some reason I have a 5 pinion aluminum planetary. I expected to see a 4 pinion. The trans has been opened up at some point. I went ahead and ordered the intermediate just in case I don't already have the later style shaft. I don't know the difference between the 46 and 47 series intermediates and neither did my supplier. It may be a lube hole or something.

Now that I'm into it, I'm kicking myself for not doing it earlier. :hehe:
 
The hard parts showed earlier in the week. I already had a 5 pinion front planetary, but it was aluminum. I ordered a steel one to replace it.

On the intermediates, the splines are different on the front end. Chances are, if you have a 5 pinion front planetary, you have the 94-up intermediate.
 
My rebuild kit showed up earlier this week. I have the intermediate and input rotating assembly put together as of right now.

Now for a question. I'm fairly certain that I tore up the flex plate. I find it hard to believe, but I hear knocking coming from the bell housing. I want to put in another flex plate because I'm sure it will break shortly due to a combination of my bad luck and a good converter.

Question: Can I use a flex plate out of a CR of some sort? They are rated at 300 or so HP which is right where I fall. I'll space the bell housing if necessary.

Thanks in advance.
 
I got mine from source automotive or something like that. It was back in 08'.

For my boss's truck we got a PRW base model flex plate.
 
I'll be glad to have a decent transmission and one less iron in the fire when I'm done. :snoop:
Don't be doing a bunch of Boosted-Launches. If you must, don't go over 10psig.

Just saying . . . .
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Well I more or less know what's going on inside them now.

But I have a D-model on 235s, so traction is a hot commodity. I'll be kind to my input.
 
The trans is now completely assembled, minus the VB.

Now here's some things I learned the hard way that'll help the rookie trans builder in the future.

-When compressing the direct spring, don't use a handle on the jack so you can feel whether or not the spring is compressing straight.

-When putting things back together, put the rear band's strut in before the drum and the rest of the rotating assembly. I don't know why, but that's the only way I could get it together. (Has anyone else had that issue? Note: single wrap band.)

-Put components together immediately after taking them apart. That way it's harder to forget things and crud has less time to get inside.
 
Cleanliness: I wrapped everything up with plastic and canvas (no real lint) while I was between stages of the rebuild.

Stay calm: I found everything went together quite a bit more smooth, and I could pay more attention to detail, if I didn't feel pressured. When I went home is when I let everything bother me. My wife said it was the only time she's almost seen me tear up, almost...... Lol. I was a bit stressed lol. I went over my work a few times before I considered my work suitable. I'm no where near a pro, but I'd jump into it again in a heart beat.

Hope it all works out when it's back together.
 
Good points Sutter. I bet I used most of a roll of trash bags keeping everything covered. I don't tend to get emotionally involved in my work, but whenever I couldn't figure something out, I went and did something else for a while and it all "magically" fell back together after a break.
 
I'll be tackling one of these soon. My buddy picked up a 2wd, ECLB for $1k. Supposedly the trans was rebuilt, started leaking out the front, owner pulled the convertor and replaced front seal, then it stopped going into gear about 1k miles later. Right now it won't do anything. You can feel a slight bump when put into D, but truck won't move more than an inch.
 
Supposedly this one had the same symptoms. I found the pump to be scored and the front clutch was junk. There was all kinds of junk in the pan and the fluid was burnt. I reused no soft/wear parts and cleaned the hard parts going back in really well.

I'll find out in due time if it all worked. I'm going to try to order a shift kit today.
 
I ended up with a Trans-Go TFOD Diesel shift kit. I installed that and buttoned everything up.

Sure looks like March 17 is the day I'll find out if I did it all right.
 
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