Dicking Around . .

What’s the latest on the heap?


I just cussed the aftermarket 4 core radiator install on mine. Nice unit, but required some shade tree modifications to the core support.
 
With right at 1,100 miles on the new engine, I finally got around to putting the heap on a dyno.
- There's no real change in fueling over the former build.
- With the converter locked and in overdrive, I had a fit getting on top of the turbos below 2000 engine RPM.
- After a few minor adjustments, it became evident the current injection timing is optimal.
- After a number of pulls, the damned TPS started showing its ass which resulted in the trans dropping out of OD & lockup during the pulls.

Screw it! It is what it is.

Standard 12mm VE IP on straight #2:
No change in horsepower but, there's an additional 140ft/lbs of torque with the EGTs never going over 1300*f.




I reckon I can build on that. :)
 
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When's cog belt driven VE #2 going in?
Hah! Dunno where I'd put it if I were inclined. LOL


BTW: Right at 19 pulls IIRC for $213. Such included dicking with tuning and cool-off between most of the pulls.

Fixing to head to the coast to see how it handles salt-air at 5' elevation.
 
Why is the torque number that low? Due to converter unlocking? Did the converter not lock in at all during the runs?

Don’t know why, but I was expecting more along the lines of 1100-1200ft lbs. Maybe VE limited?

Not knocking the numbers but just curious. Glad you found a dyno and hored it out.
 
Why is the torque number that low? Due to converter unlocking? Did the converter not lock in at all during the runs?

Don’t know why, but I was expecting more along the lines of 1100-1200ft lbs. Maybe VE limited?

Not knocking the numbers but just curious. Glad you found a dyno and hored it out.
That plot shown is with everything working as it should, in OD with converter locked.

I think it would be fair to say a number of things have changed since the former build.
- Different piston-bowl profile that includes a CC or so reduction in volume.
- A little over twice the charge-air volume available with things at full-song (+/-).
- Said profound increase in charge-air volume necessitated retarding the static injection-timing a bit compared to the former build.
- I think the lock-up converter introduces an entire new load dynamic to the engine as a whole, compared the the former non lock-up mess. I'm still recognizing/identifying all that for later ciphering over a shot or six of moonshine.

Meh, all said and done, I'm up a very comfortably cool 140ft/lbs.

On that last note, I've just arrived at the coast after a 155 mile trip of about half 70ish mph, and the balance 45/55 mph. A little over a quarter tank if you believe the stock gauge. At 70, the spinny-things appear to be just lit good and present with around 10~15lbs boost at the head. As such, the phacker jumps surprisingly if you lean into it. It's fun to drive. :woohoo:

Otherwise, an uneventful trip with no stems & seeds that you don't need. :Cheer:
 
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Currently, a Compushift MINI-2 exclusively.



I may have to just install a couple of mystery-switches to overcome any headaches when on the dyno.
Biggest issue I have is having lockup occur at an rpm point that pulls it too far down the torque curve. I've been meaning to sit down and do the math on where I need it to lock to stay on top of the climb.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
Crap.
The transmission fully functions correctly in all modes.
- It's taken to slipping in any gear/mode with going past a certain point of throttle. Past light-throttle, approaching mid-throttle (If the church-lady drove it, there'd be no issue recognized).

The TV-cable's set right and firmly connected everywhere.
I think that I've got a piston-seal flipped out of place or, some kind of hydraulic leak. I've got to look into past logs to see where I had the line-pressure set. I recall that it's like 115-125psig'ish.
Naturally, the line-pressure sensor isn't reading now after the new engine mess.

Crap.
 
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