Black Beauty Build Thread

Broaner said:
Would help to know the title of that code...
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Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit range.


I’m gonna try triple checking the wiring for pressure sensor and then unplug isspro gauge and see if it pops. Beginning to wonder if the gauge is making it pop somehow.


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I've always heard and thought its best not to introduce a possible interference/interruption in the harness. Best rail sensors are OBDII based in my eyes. Then you know exactly what the ECU is seeing. Just one more set of variables when you piggyback. Gauge can malfunction or worse... its reading correctly but interferes with signal to ECU. Not saying thats whats happening with you. Just saying, I've definitely seen many scenarios where it was the culprit.
 
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^^^ ive had this problem before. Truck started missing while driving then got so bad I couldn’t even put it in gear it would spit and sputter so bad. The butt connectors I had used to tap the rail sensor was the cause and interrupted the signal somehow. The gauge would read fine but on a CTS it would jump all over. Cut it back and soldered in a new rail sensor pigtail and was perfect. I have it soldered in now so I hope it doesn’t cause interference again.
 
So I drove out to my property and parked for a while then go back in to drive home if the highway and started getting bad vibs which seemed to come from the front. I suspected front driveshaft. I removed it and drove and no vibs so I’m getting a new HD driveshaft from driveshaft specialist in San Antonio.

My question: while I was under there I noticed the front output shaft had some bearing play in it which measured about .030-.040. Does this seem ok or a little loose? No leaks from the seal. Should I be thinking about a transfer case rebuild soon?
230k miles on the clock now


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Broaner said:
I've always heard and thought its best not to introduce a possible interference/interruption in the harness. Best rail sensors are OBDII based in my eyes. Then you know exactly what the ECU is seeing. Just one more set of variables when you piggyback. Gauge can malfunction or worse... its reading correctly but interferes with signal to ECU. Not saying thats whats happening with you. Just saying, I've definitely seen many scenarios where it was the culprit.
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my autometer in my avitar has been there for 7 years. it has always been 2k higher on rail pressure than on EFI/OBD. its twitchy when my stereo is up loud too:nail:
 
Gostman, my t/c output shaft has about the same play up and down . I was gonna look at a schematic and see if I could just put some more torque on the nut and take the play out . I got 302k on mine but I’ve had a free spin kit since 70ish k.
 
spooled05 said:
Gostman, my t/c output shaft has about the same play up and down . I was gonna look at a schematic and see if I could just put some more torque on the nut and take the play out . I got 302k on mine but I’ve had a free spin kit since 70ish k.
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Cool thx. That’s what I was looking for. I think I’ll leave it be for now and just throw on another shaft.


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741066caa66beab2568b60fa0c1adbac.jpg


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Little more meat to it.


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The heavy duty version with 4 new bolts and shipping, tax etc was about $620. I want to get a aluminum rear from them at some point. Smooth as can be now!


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