Dicking Around . .

Still dicking around. This time, I had to make a connecting rod balancing rig right quick. Cut out and stacked some phenolic discs mounted loosely and lubricated so as to be able to help settle things with the rod mounted. Some steel trap bent to form the appropriate brackets and poof! Pardon the messy bench. I make things on it. ;)

Connecting_Rod_Balancing_Rig.jpg




So . . I got the piston-ends to 616 grams:

Connecting_Rod_Small_End_616grams.jpg




The crank-ends to 1372 grams:

1372(2).jpg




All the connecting rods weigh 2006 grams each:

Connecting_Rod_Total_Weight_2006grams.jpg


The big chunks of the balancing-pads I cut off averaged about 65 grams each. I figure there's another 40~60 grams of powdered iron each.



Still gotta do the piston assemblies. ;)
 
Was able to enjoy some actual Fall like weather today. Hope your day was just as nice. :)

Checking the complete piston assemblies finds one at 1834 grams. The others were up to two grams heavier. I trimmed the existing chamfer on the ends of the internal bore of the wrist-pins so as to bring them down to match the former:

Pistons_Weigh_1834_grams.jpg




Got all of the pistons and rods assembled. The tops of the rings pointing up. Each properly oriented 120* from the next. The rods installed in the pistons with the numbers to the passenger's side and the forward of the pistons sho'nuf forward:

Piston_Rod_Assemblies_Ready_To_Install.jpg




Slid them boys in there and secured with ARP bolts slathered with the ARP squeezins and pulled up to 95ft/lbs in multiple steps:

Installing_Piston_Rod_Assemblies.jpg




I reckon I can slip in the cam and finish that in the front gear-case next, huh?
 
Slipped in a cast 188/220 camshaft:

Cast_188_220_Camshaft.jpg




The gears timed, retainer and bronze cam thrust thing. Everything blue Loc-Tited. I'll come back and check the cam degree stuff once the head and associated valve-train stuff is in place.

Camshaft_Installed.jpg




The connecting rods clear the girdle:

Connecting_Rods_Clear_The_Girdle.jpg




So far, so good. :)
 
I love following these kind of engine builds, they are the most interesting to me. As for the connecting rod balancing, do you just trim off the top and the bottom?

Engine is looking great!
 
RMJ_LB7 said:
As for the connecting rod balancing, do you just trim off the top and the bottom?

Engine is looking great!
Click to expand...
Yes, after lightening, That's what I did essentially. Thanks. :)

Slipped in the 24v lube-oil pump, lube-oil heat-exchanger and passenger's side freeze-plugs:

Oil_Pump_Cooler_Freeze_Plugs_Installed.jpg




Cleaned up the injection-pump and started fitting it. Jump the gear one tooth or two? Hmm . . .

Fitting_Injection_Pump.jpg




Hoping to receive more small parts so as to button up the oil-pan soon. ;)
 
Got the gear-timing of the injection-pump nailed down and buttoned-up the gear-case. Finished the girdle install.

Girdle_Installed.jpg




Gotta lay hands on the oil-pan.
 
Red Sleeper said:
Did you skip 1 or 2 teeth on the pump gear?

I see that tent is still serving its purpose.
Click to expand...
One. With the triples, I had to back off the injection event static timing as I recall (was two).

Yes. The "Temporary Structure" (for tax purposes) is actually working well for its task. I've insulated the roof and installed LED lights along with a small AC unit. With the way I have it built on sleepers, I can disconnect the Earth-anchors and literally drag it to where ever. The ten year cover warranty tipped things for me.
 
Signature600 said:
If you find a way to stop the tappet cover from leaking let us know!
Click to expand...

I figure that, for the most part, excessive crankcase pressure is what pushes oil past such seals. I got a gas-axe, maul, anvil and TIG-torch so . . .

Crankcase_Ventilation_Modified.jpg




Is that wrong? :1tooth:
 
Been dicking around with nailing stuff to the short-block. Still got a little more. Might start working on the head this weekend.


I don't care for the apparent reliability of the O-rings on the fancy Freeze-Plugs. While they aren't really that old, during cleaning the things, I found that the surface of the O-rings were starting to crack. Screw having to fix a leak right down the road. I replaced them with the standard freeze-plugs. The ones that last 25 years or so.

More_Done_October_First_a.jpg




The dual crankcase-vent mess looks like it fits just fine.

More_Done_October_First_b.jpg





More_Done_October_First_c.jpg




We'll see, huh?
 
What is on the back of the block, above the adapter plate, covering that freeze port? I have not been around a automatic VE so I am unfamiliar. And you are running a crank case vent on the timing cover also, I spotted that.

No such thing as too much breathing.
 
Red Sleeper said:
What is on the back of the block, above the adapter plate, covering that freeze port? I have not been around a automatic VE so I am unfamiliar. And you are running a crank case vent on the timing cover also, I spotted that.

No such thing as too much breathing.
Click to expand...


That is actually a coolant supply head for air compressor equipped applications, but many folks use them as a coolant bypass to lower block pressure.
 
Snedge said:
That is actually a coolant supply head for air compressor equipped applications, but many folks use them as a coolant bypass to lower block pressure.
Click to expand...
It feeds the remote transmission heat-exchanger under the cab as well. :)

BlockWaterAdjunct.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top