Dicking Around . .
- Thread starter BC847
- Start date
BC847
New member
Got a little more done tonight:
- The Primary pressure sensor assembly installed. The IP's AFC reference signal is from the Tee-fitting to the right.
- The Secondary pressure sensor installed.
- The turbo lube-oil manifold. It's -8AN fed and in turn feeds the turbos via -4AN lines.
- The waste-gate actuator assembly.
- The Primary pressure sensor assembly installed. The IP's AFC reference signal is from the Tee-fitting to the right.
- The Secondary pressure sensor installed.
- The turbo lube-oil manifold. It's -8AN fed and in turn feeds the turbos via -4AN lines.
- The waste-gate actuator assembly.
BC847
New member
It was a while back indeed. It's a very different truck today.
Around ten years ago, it was good for a 12.67 @ 6400lbs with an old-school HT3B & S362/65.
Red Sleeper
Active member
That’s a tight area with a passenger side drop front axle and 4” pipe. How did you squeeze between the frame rail and transfer case?
I’ve seen a flex pipe used to squeeze by the t-case.
I’ve seen a flex pipe used to squeeze by the t-case.
BC847
New member
It's 5" (two 3" into one 5").
Starting just aft the bell-housing . . .
I've a 4" section of SS Triple-lock 5" flex to address movement of the engine. That flex spans the frame diagonal . .
Once past the diagonal, the flex connects to the front of the intermediate-pipe. That pipe is nested in the passenger's frame-rail. As such, while it's tight, a 5" passes with no dents etc . . . . .
From there, the intermediate-pipe includes a 5" take-off for the temporary bed-stack on its way to the muffler . . .
It took a while to whittle-out but, it all fits with no rattling/buzzing.
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Red Sleeper
Active member
Nice clean exhaust plumbing work. My hang up was over the axle being a 2wd chassis. With the truck loaded 2,000 - 4,000 lbs on the bed, I have contact at the shock. I did use a MBRP kit though.
Is the engine between the frame rails yet?
Is the engine between the frame rails yet?
BC847
New member
:hehe:
No.
Still pecking at it though . . .
- Cab heat plumbing.
- Intake feed-horn cleaned up and fitted.
- High-pressure injector feed-lines.
- DATA-logging sensors and the associated wiring harness.
* (Most is just sitting there and easily set aside so as to install the engine with less crap in the way).
- Still have a few small engine details. Dip-stick tube (mine broke the plastic tube), injection-pump timing-pin doohickey, etc.
- I've been dragging my feet getting to correcting/fabbing/crap regarding the turbo oil-drains and the current remote oil-filter location. I'll have to make it all so as to have it all fit to my liking.
- Clean the skank-ass engine-bay.
- Replace the crack-prone steering-box mounting bracket because, well, it's right there easily accessed.
At the end of the day, I really need to have the heap on the road and be reliable, in the next three to four weeks. Got other life chit to do. You know, . . . like drive the damned thing!
BC847
New member
So, back when I first installed the triples, I had to relocate the engine lube-oil filter. I made a bracket for the filter-head that was OK but, when I installed it, I found that I had forgotten about that turbo lube-oil drain port on the engine oil pan. DOH! I had to grossly tweak the bracket to have the oil filter clear the one turbo oil drain port in the pan.
With this new build, I have the opportunity and plenty of room to fabricate/fit a new bracket that clears the two oil drain ports in the pan.
The former ugly Bracket:
Do some ciphering and make a template:
Transfer that to some 1/8" thick plate-steel, cut it out and fold it up:
Cut/drill the opening for the filter-head and associated mounting bolts:
Paint and assemble:
Install and shorten/fit the hoses (plenty of room for the turbo oil drain mess):
The hoses are well away from the hot stuff.
I think it turned out pretty well considering it was made with a jigsaw, anvil, maul and drill.
With this new build, I have the opportunity and plenty of room to fabricate/fit a new bracket that clears the two oil drain ports in the pan.
The former ugly Bracket:
Do some ciphering and make a template:
Transfer that to some 1/8" thick plate-steel, cut it out and fold it up:
Cut/drill the opening for the filter-head and associated mounting bolts:
Paint and assemble:
Install and shorten/fit the hoses (plenty of room for the turbo oil drain mess):
The hoses are well away from the hot stuff.
I think it turned out pretty well considering it was made with a jigsaw, anvil, maul and drill.
displacedtexan
$500 PREMIUM MEMBER
I think it turned out pretty well considering it was made with a jigsaw, anvil, maul and drill.
I'd agree.
Amazing what you can do without the "right" tools, if you're determined and think.
BC847
New member
CAD helps me a lot (Cardboard Aided Design).
Smokinrebel
New member
You owe me a new monitor. I just spit coffee all over mine.
Im sitting here reading this taking a break from an underground drawing in CAD as we speak.
Thats good chit. Im going to have to steal that one.
Im sitting here reading this taking a break from an underground drawing in CAD as we speak.
Thats good chit. Im going to have to steal that one.
BC847
New member
BC847
New member
Back when I first built the triple-heap, the lower turbo-group support proved to be less than adequate. It broke. :doh:
So, I made a new, mo'betta one.
More CAD work:
It fastens to the passenger's upper engine mount bracket:
I drilled and threaded a hole in the engine mount bracket and, using a shoulder-bolt, a couple of small/heavy washers and a jamb-nut, made a pivot-point for the support:
A little more tweaking, cleaning and paint reveals this:
It appears to fit as though it was made to go there and allows room for a turbo lube-oil drain to pass under it:
It easily clears all the stuff behind it:
This version better accommodates thermal expansion/contraction of the heap by allowing the mass to pivot to and from the head without excessive binding:
We'll see, huh?
So, I made a new, mo'betta one.
More CAD work:
It fastens to the passenger's upper engine mount bracket:
I drilled and threaded a hole in the engine mount bracket and, using a shoulder-bolt, a couple of small/heavy washers and a jamb-nut, made a pivot-point for the support:
A little more tweaking, cleaning and paint reveals this:
It appears to fit as though it was made to go there and allows room for a turbo lube-oil drain to pass under it:
It easily clears all the stuff behind it:
This version better accommodates thermal expansion/contraction of the heap by allowing the mass to pivot to and from the head without excessive binding:
We'll see, huh?
BC847
New member
Happy Thanksgiving folks! Hope you got some time off to spend with family & friends. If you had to work, thanks for holding the fort down.
While waiting on parts, I went ahead and disassembled and, by way of the ultrasonic cleaner, cleaned the injector components. I'll reassemble and confirm/adjust the pop-pressure directly.
Clean up in there!
This old fella's been of good service all things considered.
I reckon I'll get to them soon enough . . .
While waiting on parts, I went ahead and disassembled and, by way of the ultrasonic cleaner, cleaned the injector components. I'll reassemble and confirm/adjust the pop-pressure directly.
Clean up in there!
This old fella's been of good service all things considered.
I reckon I'll get to them soon enough . . .
BC847
New member
The donor engine included its stock/OEM turbo lube-oil drain pipe. I got to looking at it and couldn't help but see the big difference in the working internal diameter of the flange/fitting. The typical "Billet" Aluminum fitting on the left, stock/OEM on the right.
At least one of my primaries was having an issue with lube-oil getting into the compressor. In addition to those narrow drain flanges, I'd committed the sin of tying two turbo drains together. Yeah, I know.
I "Tweaked" that OEM drain-tube to fit the bottom primary.
I may have to pull it up closer to the turbo, as it comes out of the turbo. It's got to clear the passenger's frame-rail.
I've got a couple more 1/2" steel T3 lube-oil drain flanges. That and some 3/4" EMT should take care of the remaining turbos.
We'll see, huh?
At least one of my primaries was having an issue with lube-oil getting into the compressor. In addition to those narrow drain flanges, I'd committed the sin of tying two turbo drains together. Yeah, I know.
I "Tweaked" that OEM drain-tube to fit the bottom primary.
I may have to pull it up closer to the turbo, as it comes out of the turbo. It's got to clear the passenger's frame-rail.
I've got a couple more 1/2" steel T3 lube-oil drain flanges. That and some 3/4" EMT should take care of the remaining turbos.
We'll see, huh?
