2000 Excursion 12v G56

What slave are you using? Funny thing, the slave on my '06 G56 sprung a leak and went completely dead on me. The truck just sits mostly and only gets driven every 6 months or so. It is the upgraded (I think 2nd gen) slave assembly that SouthBend sells...

Currently has a stock manual trans ford one. When the truck was sitting and i pulled the nv4500 out.... some time during the push rod from th4e slave was popped out and the fluid in the reservoir was gone. I hope there was some fluid in the line when I put it back together this week. I have pushed the pedal a ton and haven't tried to put it in gear with engine running yet. I bought a southbend hd slave setup and have it sitting here. Just debating the grief on installing it. the pedal assembly firewall are looks pretty cramped.
I fabbed up a transfer case lever mount for the side of the g56 tonight. I had to take a ford Zf6 nv271 manual lever mount and cut it down and rework it alot!
Its drying I will sanp soem pictures tomrrow.
Thanks,
Deo

24 valve

Did you do the p pump conversion ??

??????????? I am not sure what you mean? It has a 12v School bus engine. It came from Cummins as a 12V.
Thanks,
Deo

Nice setup. I'm really thinking about going to the g56 I'm have hell with the 4r100.

I Finally uploaded some pictures. I hate Photo bucket. What other photo hosting do you guys use? PB is so slow its horrible took all night to upload 60 pictures. and even crashed the browser.

Last I had posted I was doing the Axle swap to fix the chipped ring gear.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/IMG-20130409-00401-1.jpg.html"]IMG-20130409-00401-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
Swapped a 10.5 from a 77k mile plow truck in yard. only issue is it had the regular rear yoke instead of flange yoke so i had to remove the flange on driveshaft.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10017-1.jpg.html"]SDC10017-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10019-1.jpg.html"]SDC10019-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10021-1.jpg.html"]SDC10021-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Redid the rear brakes. all new dust shields , rotors, drum ebrake etc
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10037-1.jpg.html"]SDC10037-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10058-1.jpg.html"]SDC10058-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10059.jpg.html"]SDC10059.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10061-1.jpg.html"]SDC10061-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Added new shocks front and back used Cart T's special valved bilsteins. CT perfomance. I don't have shot of the rear. the double front shock mount is from the old BDS lift kit it had. looks like they press out the single bolt and use a longer one pretty simple to mod a stock mount to be double.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10160.jpg.html"]SDC10160.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Made new Radiator hoses up and got rid of the silly hose it had for the lower.
The upper hose is a 2nd gen 12v hose.
The bottom is a mixture of a 7.3 lower hose and a 1st gen dodge lower hose you just cut some hose off of each and join them with a exhaust pipe adapter.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10078.jpg.html"]SDC10078.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Worked on the fuel lines. Using the synflex air line hose from tank and to filters then to the lift pump. 1/2" feed, and 3/8" return. Made the rest in teflon lined hose with reuseable fittings. the feeds at Dash 8 / 1/2 jic and return is dash 6 / 3/8 jic. Made a dual feed set up. the t i drilled and tapped and added a pressure gauge. on the return side used dash 6 banjo and made up a transfer block from a steel log fitting npt on exit and 3/8 jic on entrance. tapped it to fit the return banjo bolt fitting. its 8x1.25 I believe ( i posted it in the fuel fitting thread) . Welded a bracket to bolt it onto intake plate and it works great. I cover my stainless hose in clear vinyl to prevent chafing and it looks clean too.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10154.jpg.html"]SDC10154.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10156.jpg.html"]SDC10156.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10157.jpg.html"]SDC10157.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10158.jpg.html"]SDC10158.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10159.jpg.html"]SDC10159.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10166.jpg.html"]SDC10166.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10184-1.jpg.html"]SDC10184-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10164.jpg.html"]SDC10164.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Thanks,
Deo

Getting there
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10180.jpg.html"]SDC10180.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Worked on the Transfer case shift lever set up. I didn't have a G56 shift lever so i had to fab up a mount using the trans case bolts. I modified a 7.3 zf6 leaver assembly. I had to cut the part with the lever mount down so it didn't stick out as far. also the transfer case adapter added space between lever and transfer case so I either had to cut the long lever, or modify the trans side. I re did the trans side since I was pulling it on and off to weld etc. Works great.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10196-1.jpg.html"]SDC10196-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10199-1.jpg.html"]SDC10199-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10200-1.jpg.html"]SDC10200-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10202-1.jpg.html"]SDC10202-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

I have a fast cooler on the drivers side instead of passenger where it would work better as the exhaust is tight on passenger side. I bought a set of 1/2" plexiglass pto covers from Ahale back a few years ago. It looks neat. also added aground strap to trans. I have heard the g56 can have some electrolisis issues with the gears and this may help. its cheap and easy so why not. using 50wt synthetic gear lube from Supers. no atf and filled transfer case with it too. Passenger side of trans has a eaton pto filter setup. I have a drive shaft / yoke driven gear lube pump from a circle track 9" ford rear I want to adapter and use it to run a gear lube cooler . I hope to mess with that in the summer.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10198-1.jpg.html"]SDC10198-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10197-1.jpg.html"]SDC10197-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Thanks,
Deo

Any one who has dealt with a superduty manual transfer case boot know the screws are a pain to deal with and always fill with dirt and can't be removed. so i ditched them and used 2 1/2" 8/32 pan head bolts so i can remove the boot in the future. It is still hard to do and had to use small vise grips to hold the locking nut under the truck and lining up the hols is tough especially in freezing weather on a thick vinyl floor..
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10203-1.jpg.html"]SDC10203-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10208-1.jpg.html"]SDC10208-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Swapped in a set of the 2005 and up harley style headlights. Used the Eagle eye brand. In order to fit the older header panel you have to cut it out. I used a dremel. Leaving them loose till I am done with my Snow plow wiring.
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10211-1.jpg.html"]SDC10211-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10210-1.jpg.html"]SDC10210-1.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s2.photobucket.com/user/therabbittree/media/Excursion/SDC10220.jpg.html"]SDC10220.jpg Photo by therabbittree | Photobucket[/ame]

Working on Snow Plow Mount next.
Thanks,
Deo

sounds like a sweet build, I would love to build a fummins EX one day.

wish your pictures would load tho

Not sure what is up with the pictures?? Drives me nuts . can seem to find out why it happens here on comp d? I posted same pictures to my other build thread on Turbodiesel register and they all showed up fine no black box like here. Same with Plow Site posted my plow install and pictures just opened like normal... any ideas?
Thanks,
Deo

Test

Ok that worked and shows up .noticed i had to delete the url and just left img on either end. Other issue is it is not showing a edit button on th e bottom of the older posts so i can correct them, it just shows edit on the last 2 ? Moderator any ideas about the edit buttons being missing?
Thanks
Deo

I Finally uploaded some pictures. I hate Photo bucket. What other photo hosting do you guys use? PB is so slow its horrible took all night to upload 60 pictures. and even crashed the browser.

Last I had posted I was doing the Axle swap to fix the chipped ring gear.

Swapped a 10.5 from a 77k mile plow truck in yard. only issue is it had the regular rear yoke instead of flange yoke so i had to remove the flange on driveshaft.




Redid the rear brakes. all new dust shields , rotors, drum ebrake etc

Added new shocks front and back used Cart T's special valved bilsteins. CT performance. I don't have shot of the rear. the double front shock mount is from the old BDS lift kit it had. looks like they press out the single bolt and use a longer one pretty simple to mod a stock mount to be double.


Made new Radiator hoses up and got rid of the silly hose it had for the lower.
The upper hose is a 2nd gen 12v hose.
The bottom is a mixture of a 7.3 lower hose and a 1st gen dodge lower hose you just cut some hose off of each and join them with a exhaust pipe adapter.


Worked on the fuel lines. Using the synflex air line hose from tank and to filters then to the lift pump. 1/2" feed, and 3/8" return. Made the rest in teflon lined hose with reuseable fittings. the feeds at Dash 8 / 1/2 jic and return is dash 6 / 3/8 jic. Made a dual feed set up. the t i drilled and tapped and added a pressure gauge. on the return side used dash 6 banjo and made up a transfer block from a steel log fitting npt on exit and 3/8 jic on entrance. tapped it to fit the return banjo bolt fitting. its 8x1.25 I believe ( i posted it in the fuel fitting thread in dodge competition over on Competition Diesels web site) . Welded a bracket to bolt it onto intake plate and it works great. I cover my stainless hose in clear vinyl to prevent chafing and it looks clean too.









Thanks,
Deo

Getting there


Worked on the Transfer case shift lever set up. I didn't have a G56 shift lever so i had to fab up a mount using the trans case bolts. I modified a 7.3 zf6 leaver assembly. I had to cut the part with the lever mount down so it didn't stick out as far. also the transfer case adapter added space between lever and transfer case so I either had to cut the long lever, or modify the trans side. I re did the trans side since I was pulling it on and off to weld etc. Works great.





I have a fast cooler on the drivers side instead of passenger where it would work better as the exhaust is tight on passenger side. I bought a set of 1/2" plexiglass pto covers from Ahale back a few years ago. It looks neat. also added aground strap to trans. I have heard the g56 can have some electrolisis issues with the gears and this may help. its cheap and easy so why not. using 50wt synthetic gear lube from Supers. no atf and filled transfer case with it too. Passenger side of trans has a eaton pto filter setup. I have a drive shaft / yoke driven gear lube pump from a circle track 9" ford rear I want to adapter and use it to run a gear lube cooler . I hope to mess with that in the summer.



Thanks,
Deo

Any one who has dealt with a superduty manual transfer case boot know the screws are a pain to deal with and always fill with dirt and can't be removed. so i ditched them and used 2 1/2" 8/32 pan head bolts so i can remove the boot in the future. It is still hard to do and had to use small vise grips to hold the locking nut under the truck and lining up the hols is tough especially in freezing weather on a thick vinyl floor..



Swapped in a set of the 2005 and up harley style headlights. Used the Eagle eye brand. In order to fit the older header panel you have to cut it out. I used a dremel. Leaving them loose till I am done with my Snow plow wiring.




Working on Snow Plow Mount next.
Thanks,
Deo

ok from what I can see the picture issue is photo bucket showing url when you copy the img link.. seems strange. i could still edit my old posts on TDR so I cut and pasted the post again and deleted the url before and after the image links and it works. Why is Comp d limit eding edit time after a post is posted? if I could edit the old on posts I could fix the img links with out re posting. So frustrating.
Thanks,
Deo

Hey, looking good. Thanks for taking the time to post the pics a second time. I like what you did for the fuel fitting bracket that bolts on the intake. I'm going to have to do something similar.

I have to finish my transfer case linkage too. It's getting old crawling underneath with a crescent wrench.

Keep up the good work. Oh, by the way, I usually use shutterfly for picture uploading, and it seems to work well.

Been busy. I Mounted Snow plow electronics, new radiator etc... and was ready to try and hook up to new plow. Well started truck up and clutch pedal won't allow it to go into gear. I can only go into gear when transfer case is in nuetral. The Slave and clutch master must have air in them.
I tried pumping pedal , tried pumping slave from under the track, tried pumping both at same time with helper. Tried a mityvac into the resevior hole with lots of vacuum, tried mityvac suction while pumping slave, tried mity vac and pedal pumping.. all with no luck. VERY Frustrated. Spent Hrs. like 5 hrs in the dark trying to get these Hydrualics to work.
I have been attempting to keep the slave level or with the line higher then the cyl... any not sure how to proceed.
The trans side is a 2 stud flange slave to fit the G56 / nv4500 style trans. The Master is a 2 hole master that fits over the ford pedal box studs. I'm not sure is the previous owner used a dodge setup in the ford, or added a dodge slave to a ford master? ....the ford slave looks like a twist connection to trans from service manual, whereas the dodge is flange style. I think the dodge master has 2 studs in it to bolt into the fire wall, and the ford master slides over two protruding studs from firewall in the engine compartment ?
Read a old post from Roachie some where that says take the dodge master and knock the studs out of the metal firewall flange it has, then you ream them out a little, and it will fit the ford pedal box studs that stick out of the firewall. My Ford clutch pedal and push rod are custom modified pieces. the metal rod was welded longer and the ford plastic rod click was discarded. i drilled the pedal pine out to use a cotter pin retainer etc. the pedal used to break the ford clip constantly and drop the pedal to the floor. That sucked alot especially in traffic. Any how i changed that years ago and before i swapped the trans.
Any tips on how to bleed the sytsem with a mity vac?
I have a new HD slave here with the metal master cyl flange it has 2 studs sticking out of it. I assume its a dodge style? It has a funky adjustable master push rod with a plastic clutch switch attached to it?? I'm about ready to pound those studs off and try to swap this one into the truck. I have no clutch switch in this truck and hope it all matches up.?

Help, Tips appreciated...
Thanks,
Deo