2000 Excursion 12v G56

Hi,
I have been working on this one for a long time, on and off. I bought it in Hillsboro Ohio back in 2008 /2009 I drove it about 2 weeks then decided to tear it apart and redo alot of stuff that i didn't like from the previous owners build.
The Truck was built by Shawn Dance. It was built with a 12v school bus engine, NV4500 redone by Woodruff. It had a Mitchell Dual Disk pulling clutch. Woodruff oringed head, 160 pump , full cut dv, 370's, a strange Hx50 with a modded 6cm turbine built by a turbo shop out there, I think J-Mez turbo? The Truck has 4.10's dana 50 and 10.5 rear had a big 8 " BDS lift and 37" Toyo tires on 22" rims.
Some old Youtube Pulling videos from the previous owner:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1yRQL9jg0g"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1yRQL9jg0g[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-BApRoKWw8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-BApRoKWw8[/ame]
I got the truck and tore it apart took the lift ,and 22" rims out and sold them. I sold the nv4500 and mitchell clutch, and swapped in a '07 AE G56, with Southbend FE. Thinking back I should have kept the nv4500, oh well *bdh*. I found some of screwy work, like the alternator wiring had 2 wire nuts and lots of electrical tape holding together etc.
Back then I was on The TDR alot and had thread about it there.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/211348-12v-Excursion-Redo
I stopped working on to pay off some debt, and in the mean time bought a '05 6.0 Excursion. I also just did a full engine rebuild on that truck last year. I documented it on Powerstroke.org.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-ford-excursion-discussion/403050-05-excursion-cab-driveway-build.html
Did alot of work custom deleted and welded up intake, BPD remote oil cooler , full home built Regulated return with A100 and cummins remote fuel and water separator, bare block rebuild, redone block, heads, , new warren 155/30 injectors etc etc...
Well the '05 has been in my friends Body shop since this past feb. needed minor lower door rust fixed and had new rear quarter installed and rebuild rear fender lips etc.. .. every time i stop by he isn't done and has a new date. Tenitively he says it will be finished by Halloween. I think that means Thanksgiving or Christmas lol.
So I decided to bring back the 2000 12v excursion. Plans are to get it going asap, and mount a plow on it. and have a useable daily driver, I can bring the 4 kids , wife and dog in and still tow and plow with. I have just got back on it this month. I'll post up some older photos and go from there.
Thanks,
Deo

I forgot most people can not read the TDR thread, unless your a TDR member. I've posted some of it for you.

The Excursion as I got it in 2008:










Thanks,
Deo

I noticed a large bulge in the alternator cable . Well after dissecting it I found a nice suprise. The cable had been attached by splitting the cable into two smaller portions and using WIRENUTS

I figured I was in for more of these discoveries. Ha I found that the stock 5.4 gas fords have the starter relay on the pass side. The cummins starter is on the drivers side. The truck was wired with the cables leaving the drivers side, travelling to the pass side and then back to the drivers side. The Cruise control was also mounted on the passenger side and not hooked up. The Batteries were not secured very well, Bungee cord! and they were not very strong, and I wanted to add a grid heater.

So I opened the wiring up and pulled the relay wires out, moved the cruise control and starter relay to drivers side,

fabricated a new battery tray, soldered new alternator cable, and upgraded to new 2/0 battery cables.








I discovered the EGT / boost wires along with the stereo power were run into the cab without any grommets on the holes. The holes also passed though some brackets on the inside that hold the ecu.

Trans Swap pictures .

Trans Cross member modifications to fit G56. I cut it down in height. After finishing the crossmember I went to install the drive shafts & I found they need to be cut / modified too as the trans is longer.

I degreased, wire wheeled and painted the frame. Built the fuel filters and mount for them. Cummins / Fleetguard Part # 3930618-S $25.80 each
Thanks,
Deo

Forgot I have a bunch of photos on Picase Web too
https://plus.google.com/photos/111826346830588262832/albums/5308750732520929425?banner=pwa

Dropped the 8" lift for Modified stock springs. Modded B codes in the Back and wanted to do x codes in the front, but couldn't find nice used set. So added 2 springs to a t code front spring. The extra front leaf was another long leaf from the excusion G code rear leaf pack. Added the 3 1/2" F350 rear block. Cleaned up the rear passenger side shock mount skid plate.We'll see how it works out.



I ran the Eaton Synflex fuel lines to the fuel filters and forward.

I had been working on a twin turbo setup. Here are some pictures. I have since decided to halt that project and just run a single turbo to get the truck on the road. If I do twins in the future it will probably be s300 ands400 style setup. The Holsets are rotated in the opposite direction and are a pain to work with in a '99 up Super Duty.
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Scrapped the twin holset idea, currently gonna run a f800 ford 12v manifold and a H1C mapwidth turbo ,with 12cm 2nd gen turbine housing. It fits nice and is simple.
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ANY ONE KNOW Why Photobucket's img code picture aren't showing up in this post? they show up in all the others?. I've noticed this looking at others threads every now and then. Very Frustrating. Is there a fix?
Thanks,
Deo

Mounting location for the Heater grid coils. This mounting location keeps the coils up and dry and accessible to do wiring or trouble shooting . . also the brake fluid is still accessible







I cut & pasted / saved this from somewhere and I don't remember where haha. . any how here's another explanation they are real simple even if you don't have the factory relay / coils. .

"Don't confuse yourself about the ground, It's the same, the 2nd connection just isn't being used, I'll run you through this if you want, I have a Cummins in my ford and I like the manual button for my grid heaters, The automatic cycling of the heaters are a pain in the butt anyway, ( harder on battery/alternator life ) after the motor is running the heaters cycle why tax the alternator/battery for no reason, Anyway put the ground wire from the heaters to a good ground on the intake, The hot wires run to a heavy duty relay, or two relays, (mine has just one ) A starter solenoid from a ford works just fine, Then run a hot wire from the battery to the relay/relays (use a min 4 gauge wire) from the relay signal terminal run a wire to a momentary switch in the cab ( 18/20 gauge wire ) from the other side of the momentary switch run a wire to a ignition controlled hot at the fuse panel (this is preferred but not necessary) Or just find a constant hot termination / wire under the dash Make sure you use a momentary switch or you run the risk of burning your heaters out if you forget it on. "

Thanks,
Deo

Put the front end back on, radiators , intercooler, grille etc... Cleaned the storage area out of the the interior. I am installing the ACC Vinyl floor . I finished the back, and middle seat area. Cleaned up my seats installed middle bench and 3rd row. I want to do a 60 40 front bench with fold down center console seat. So I have a line on a clean tan cloth set up at the junk yard. not sure if i should just grab the center seat part and keep the side leather seats, but pull the arm rests off? or get full cloth and just get nice covers? found nice full power and heat tan leather set for $700 but trying to save some $.
Cleaned up a used 271 Manual shift transfer case, Going to pull the 273 electric shift and swap them. Gonna pull the broken ring gear rear end out has 135 k miles on it. Replace it with used 77k mile unit i have. just have to wire wheel and paint it etc. I plan on rebuilding the pulled one and the dana 60 front axle I have sitting here with the new ford 3.331 gears and lockers. but again its a later nice thing i want to do when i have extra $. For now the used 77k 4.10 rear will work. My front dana 50 needs ball joints. I have a set of moogs here, so that has to happen too. grabbed set of used warn hubs from junk yard too.
I am debating the p pump front fuel line situation, I would like to do an dual feed to the lift pump and t my injector return in etc.. I may order the fitting and some teflon lined hose , or reuse the banjo hard lines a to lift pump and run fuel hose from overflow to a t with injector return to the synflex return lines.. The cheap way out.

- Wife with our youngest - inspecting the progress
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- The truck had a school bus center fan pulley and would not fit a regular fan.I removed the dual electric fans, and swapped in a dodge fan pulley and a 1st gen clutch fan . like that better as less stuff to screw up. Just need to get a fan shroud to fit...
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- I cleaned out the interior as it was a storage shed for the last several years argh. I had ordered a ACC ( Auto Custom Carpet) Black vinyl floor years ago. I ordered 2 yards more of the same material so I could make a removable floor section around my fabbed tranny hump. lol. The transmission hump seems to fit well when I built it a few years ago. but now I can't seem to get 3 holes to line up perfect.
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- I am not going to redo it again as I'm very short on time. So I bolted it down, and sealed it up . I was going to buy a boat load of dynamat type sound insulation to and do the whole interior. But again lack of funds and need for vehicle on the road ASAP curtailed that idea. The ACC kit comes with the Jute floor insulation but not much. No Instructions and the vinyl is not molded or cut . So its all guess work and hand cutting. Laying it in the sun helps but when its chilly in the fall the vinyl is stiff. The Shifter boot I think is from a Dodge? I have two styles here a rounded square and a square style.. I mounted it up and used a Gripper Shifter I bought used. The Knob will be a push button style to activate the 4" remote pacbrake. I don't like the feel of the knob so far and may just make it a nice Cummins ball shifter from Genos, with a push pull switch mounted on shifter.
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- I want a 60/40 folding center console front bench seat. Found a nice leather heated power one but its $700 .. so found a clean cloth non power one in the junk yard. debating swapping it in whole and putting seat covers on it, or just swapping in the center seat / console in with the leather buckets i have now. You can remove the inner armrests on the buckets to make it work but its not pretty but works.. an it fits my limited budget.

- The 10.5 Sterling rear in the truck had a leaking rear cover . I pulled it and found the ring gear was chipped. Its 4.10 ration. has 135k on it. Found a 77k 4.10 rear from a 2000 F250 gasser. It was REALLY Rusty but clean inside. Took a day and beat / burnt the rust off. Primed and painted it. The Gasser diff and some early diesel diffs had a regular yoke instead of a drive flange. Researched and found I can either unbolt and pull the yoke , then re set the pinion with new crush sleeve and set it up again or take the drive flange off my rear drive shaft and just put the u joint in the rears regular yoke. That is much easier!, supposedly it only makes the rear drive shaft compress 1/4 " the slip yoke should take that no problem. When I get $ I will get the Dana 60 SD front and this rear regeared . with lockers and either 3.31 or 3.55's. any thoughts?
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- Have to swap in the rear and do the rear brakes. debating pulling the brakes from the truck off and saving $ or buying new .. new is easier but it needs full re brake, dorman backing plates, calipers, rotors, lines and hoses etc... have to see...

- Ordered '05 and up harley style head lights. I need to cut the header panel to fit them and updating the wiring pig tails etc...

Thanks,
Deo

- Drive Shafts cut down and lengthened. Repainted them and look nice.
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- Started to make a rear bumper for our 2005 and stopped. decided to use it for the 2000. It need to be modified, I built it off the truck and it has to be adjusted and filled in a few places. I plan on installing rear back up lights in the bumper some where too. Maybe a rear spare tire gate??
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- Cleaned up , and painted the NV271, have to swap it with the electric shift NV273 and source the linkage etc.
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Thanks,
Deo

I removed the rear axle with the chipped ring gear. I installed the other 77k mile rear end. I ordered new brake parts as the rotors , backing plates , and e brake parts were toast.
I Went to the Junk yard Saterday and was hoping to pull the nice bench seat with the folding jump seat center console setup. Well they crushed the truck.. ..so I am using the front captains I already had, but without the center console. So it will be like a van lol.. I hope to find a nice folding jump seat setup sometime in future, but for now the two Capts. will work for now. I reinstalled them and found out my batteries are really dead, and I can't move the drivers power seat backward lol.. My small trickle charger died, along with my large roll around charger.. more $ to spend.
I was able to source a nice ford plastic fan shroud from a 7.3 power stroke sd truck. The Shroud won't fit with radiator installed. It slides in with rad removed, but it got stuck trying to remove it. I modified it with a grinder on the bottom to gain more clearance and measured 8" down from the top on either side and cut it in half. I made up some aluminum flat stock, riveted the stock to the lower part of the shroud, and drilled and used 8mm self tapping screw on the top part so it can remove the shroud easily in the truck with radiator installed. It got dark so I'll take some photos and test it out asap.
Thanks,
Deo

Looking great! Why are you second guessing your decision on going with the G56? It seems like a great choice, unless you're really planning on pushing the power upwards of 600 hp one day? That being said, we have similar excursions, and I just finished pulling out the 5R auto and putting in a ZF6 manual. I like it, but it doesn't shift better than the G56 in my opinion.

Thanks, I've followed your build also after you bought your project. I was hoping to do some pulling etc, the f3 and g56 probably won't like that so I'll be happy driving it detuned. Just trying to get it done to put plow on asap.. goal is before thanks giving etc..
Thanks,
Deo

Looks great... Maybe one day

I've Been working on it, Loading Pictures Sucks. Seems like Photo Bucket is like purgatory lol. So no pictures yet. I took a bunch, so I will post them later.
Got the Rear end swapped in, and the brake brakes done. I was struggling with the drives side e brake setup , and couldn't get the drum setup to work. Then it dawned on me the cast iron top fulcrum had rusted the inside ears off. The Drum pads wouldn't stay put because of it. Lol I had to rob the other rear end for the axle mount, clean it and paint etc. got them in.
Mounted the modified trac bars. The original ones hung way down and were double bars. Cut them down to one bar. The kinda suck with ag ends that are frozen etc. but they worked and it was "free" so I'll rock them till I can do another set.
Put the 4" exhaust back under the truck. I have to add the 4" in line muffler, and the 4" remote exhaust brake too. Gonna have to ad some extra hangers. The exhaust is home made 4" steel no muffler. I would like a stainless Magnaflow 4" system like my '05 excursion, but that's $ and I am on a budget.
Swapped the 271 in . Now I have to Fab up a Transfer Case Shifter mount to the G56.
Put the new Deka Group 49 batteries in. These batteries had a wider top then the old 49's it had. I had to cut and grind the Drivers fender, hood corner to get them to sit down in the mount I built.
Gonna tackle the front brakes, Ball Joints, and u joints today. I hope the wheel unit bearings are good. Debating on putting new ones in for piece of mind? but that's $600. Gonna look up the greasable unit bearing mod now..
Off to work on it now.
Thanks,
Deo

I Finished the Ball Joints, axle U-joints, and front brakes last night. The Wheel Bearings felt smooth. I hope they last. The Passenger side lower ball joint was frozen it took a huge wrench to move knuckle to access hub nuts. I have to have the wife help me bleed the brakes. My Knees are not feeling great.. I can't wait to build a shop with a lift! Smashed by left thumb, and stubbed the right thumb so working with my hands is slightly painful lol.
Back out for more fun soon.
Thanks,
Deo

- I finished up the ball joint and brake job up front. Used some warns i got from the junk yard. I plugged the vacuum lines to the hubs.
- I mounted the h1c 12cm wastegated turbo on to of the the flipped 12v ATS manifold. I had to heat up the ATS and separate the ends again.. That really really sucks. They have to get almost cherry hot and using a blow torch tip doesn't heat as evenly ...beating on it o broke a ear off and had to heat it and reweld it. No fun. the Turbo is really tight to th ea/c box. Its the wastegate linkage. I'll see if it hits.
- I had to make a oil drain, I had to get it to clear the compressor housing and the turbine mounting ears. I Extended it down to only use a short piece of oil rated rubber hose.
- I made a new cold side to intercooler pipe.
- I had to clean up the old intercooler to intake pipe it was pretty rough.
- I ordered 6 Bilstein shocks from Cary T 2 each side up front and 2 for the rear. Ordered an adjustable Trackbar from him too.
- Received my Transfer case shifter boot from White Bear Ford. I was happy to see the $35 boot included the inner boot / seal, and the plastic lower mount, and the 4 phillips head screws!!! Those screws are what normally suck. You can't ever get them loose at a junk yard.
- Test fit my Redone drive shafts and found the rear is totally compressed and unable to fit at regular ride height. I rechecked my measurements and i was off by 1 inch. 1 inch shouldn't have made that big of a problem as the slip should have some decent travel. I had the truck up on jack stand during test. I have dropped it down and plan to re test fit today. I think the rear has to be shortened again. Argh.
- My Fittings for fuel system should arrive by friday. I hope to get it done asap.
- I changed the oil and filter running the kendall 15-40 synthetic blend.
- Installed new upper dodge 12v rad hose. Did the lower hose using 12v first gen lower hose jointed with a 2000 Ford SD 7.3 lower hose, Had to trim them up a bit and use small steel exhaust pipe adapter in between them. Worked great. Much better then the contraption that was on the truck.
- Started to put the fender liners back in. I have to sort some of the wiring - rewrap the ac compressor and pressure switch harness, do the grid heater wiring, reroute the gauge wiring. I have to mount the vacuum pump an go throw the hoses. I have heard I can ditch the vacuum tank.
- I run to the fastener supply store and by some bolts. Need the tow hook bolts, the clutch slave is missing a mounting bolt. The G56 had reverse torx mounting bolts fro the PTO covers. I would like to swap to regular head etc.

Pictures and more updates soon.
Thanks,
Deo

More Progress, lots of Rain and now freezing cold lol....

- Got a Eaton gear lube filter on the passenger side. I had tried to fit it with a Fast Cooler on the passenger side , but it wouldn't allow 4" exhaust to fit by. I moved fast Cooler to the Drivers side of trans and used one of Ahale's old Plexiglass pto covers. Swapped all the inverse torx bolts to regular heads. Bought 5 gals of 50wt syn gear lube. no more ATF. I had to pull the exhaust heat shield off too.

- Found out the drive shafts aren't right. The Front is ok, but the rear one is too long and is compressed before it can even be bolted in. no good. Dropped it off for the shop to redo. I got a tap to chase the yoke threads front and back and new bolts / straps.

- Got my Shocks from Cary T. The Bilsteins are nice. kept the dual BDS front shock mount from the old 8" lift. So I've got 2 per corner in the front. The Icon front Tracbar set up is Super Beefy! Bolted that in. Need bump stops front and back . thinking of Timbrens, especially with the 9'2" V Plow. Timbrens or air bags in the rear?.. I'd like a rear sway bar too. This excursion didn't have one.

- Redid the front intercooler piping and painted it.

Whats left to do :
- Have to bolt in the intercooler piping.
- Fill engine with coolant.
- Fill trans, and transfercase
- Bleed brakes.
- Mount clutch slave and bleed
- Bolt in down pipe.
- Mount Remote 4" Exhaust Brake, and make some new exhaust hangers.
- Fab up a transfer case lever mount on the trans,
- Bolt in Driveshafts.
- Plumb the dual feed p pump fuel lines.
- Straighten out wiring and reinstall drivers side fender liner.
- Cut the header panel for '05 -07 headlight conversion. Install the '05 harley lights and wiring relays.
- I have to pull the front lower crash bar under the front bumper to mount plow mount.

Hope to get it going before Thanksgiving!?? , We are finally Scheduled to Close on our new house on Friday afternoon so I have some work there too.
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
Deo

Fired truck today :ft:

I Still need to finish a bunch of things, but it was nice to hear it start.
Hoping the clutch slave will work, the fluid may have drained as the reservoir was empty. I'm hoping the line was full.
I have to rig up the grid heaters, make a transfer case shift lever mount that goes on the side of the g56, re try mounting the drive shafts, finish little wiring jobs etc.
Hope to get the plow assembled and mount attached this week. I took the week off to try and get it done.
Updates soon Son.
Deo