Waterman Pump Plumbing

I'll likely use a PTO cable or one of the fancier choke cable systems. Something large enough to grab easily in an emergency situation. Definitely don't want a system you have to stop and think about first.
 
My 3 way dump threads into the pump. I use a PTO cable mounted way down by where the e brake pedal was so I dont mistake it for the injection pump kill.

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Haisley and Keating have nice check valves. I run Haisley valves. I used a -12 from the tank to a aeromotive inline filter, -12 to waterman, -12 out of the waterman to filter head -10 (Haisley), -10 to dump valve, -8 from "Y" block to dual pump inlets.
 
If you guys are looking for a good inexpensive filter setup here ya go. Baldwin 1311 filter base. Bf1212 seperator. Bf957 main.
 
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If anyone need these I will let them go cheap. Have the fittings at the waterman to. It's 6-8 feet of 3/4 with swivel fittings for supply to waterman. Then a single 1/2 line out to the filter head where it goes to the dual feed at the pump. Will come with all fittings needed and as seen. Everything is Parker push lock
 
This is an interesting topic, and I have often had questions about the plumbing as well. After looking at several models of the Waterman Sprint, I have noticed that the one that is generally used for our applications is the .500 Sprint model, this model flows 4.90 GPM, which is a huge amount of fuel. It seems like a lot of the added expense and time plumbing these pumps is figuring out how to run the return lines and the check valves. I am currently NOT running a Waterman pump, but would like to. I have a slightly different idea I would like to try. Why not run a Sprint .300 pump, which flows 2.8 GPM and simplify the plumbing? This smaller waterman would still be providing more fuel than most other fuel pumps, is still mechanical. A large A/D is rated at 200 GPH, which is about 3.33 GPM, so this pump would actually move slightly less fuel than some pumps that are not being plumbed with all the extra return lines and such. My thought would be that you would run this pump with possibly one poppet valve coming out of the return on the P7100......Hopefully someone will come chime in and set me straight if my logic is flawed....ha.
 
I agree they move way more fuel than needed. Keep in mind the 4.90gpm rating is at 4000 pump rpm though.
 
I'm not so sure you would even need to run a check valve off the pump. I realize for competition they require a 3 way dump valve, but for a daily driver, I'm thinking you might be able to do without. If the waterman .500 is rated at 4.90 GPM @ 4000 rpms, then at 3K RPMs in our trucks, it would only be turning 1500 RPMs which in my calculations would be moving about 1.83 GPM. This is on a Sprint .500......A sprint .300 @ 4000 RPMs is rated at 2.8 GPM, at 3K RPMs in out trucks, it would be turning 1500 RPMs and would be moving 1.05 GPM.....not a significant enough amount of flow to warrant check valves, and could be used with a stock OFV off the P pump I would think. Someone let me know here if I am calculating this wrong. I can understand if a sled puller was turning 5K Rpms, but for a hot street truck, I'm not seeing the need for the complicated plumbing. If I'm completely wrong, please school me.....lol
 
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Good luck running these things on a daily driver. Most manufacturers of these things say to rebuild them every season. I'd say you'd be lucky to get 10k miles out of one.
 
You very well might be correct, but I have heard some people say its not a good idea, and that the manufacture says they are not intended for a daily driver, and then I have also spoke with a sales rep at Waterman who said that diesel fuel provides more lubrication than alcohol or gas, and that he suspected it would work fine on the street for a daily driver. I think the expense of the pump, the check valves, and the AN fittings most people run are the reason it's not cost effective for street use, but this is why I'm curious about running one of the smaller waterman pumps......
 
So question. What kind of line and fittings are you using? If I buy summits braided line and fittings it's like 500-600. If I bought the stuff off of eBay it's like 300 or so. I'm not trying to cheap out but if stuff is the same quality, why not save a few bucks. This is going on a puller. Plan on running -10 and -6 on returns. Thanks.

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Burningtire said:
So question. What kind of line and fittings are you using? If I buy summits braided line and fittings it's like 500-600. If I bought the stuff off of eBay it's like 300 or so. I'm not trying to cheap out but if stuff is the same quality, why not save a few bucks. This is going on a puller. Plan on running -10 and -6 on returns. Thanks.

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I wouldn't be afraid of eBay cheapos. A guy I know that owns a pretty big company in the racing industry just started getting all his on private label fittings from China for crazy cheap. The company he gets them from makes fitting for many different brands, and all sell them at different prices. Typical motorsports rebrand and jack up the price deal.
 
I would run a pre filter right before the pump just to be safe. I stick with eaton line and fittings personally
 
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