tractor hydralic fluid

gunracer1

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Jun 1, 2006
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i have been hearing this for years. i have never got around to using it in my builds. what a screw up on my part. i changed a valve body in my daughter stone stock 97 12v. i was amazed at the differance it made in the stall speed. i mean you can actualy feel it shift gears. as anyone who has ever driven the stock set up. when you put it to the wood it hits the gov at 2900 ish and stays there. now it rows throught the gears and moves out. any one who is on the fence on this, go for it. and i just changed the pan full, not a full flush.
i am swaping out the fluid in my 95 tomorrow.
 
It's good stuff for sure. It's all I ran in my GM race tranny's for many years, Rossler and many other performance tranny builders highly rec. it on high hp builds. Less wear on the pump, less sticking VB issues, better clutch holding propeties, etc...... only down fall I seen was when running it 100% like I did; its hard to see on the stick. Adding a quart of red ATF would help that a bit....


Ryan
 
Wow, I have never herd this before. Would kinda like to try it now, need to flush anyways.
 
I agree Bean turned me on to this on one of my HP builds. I use Schaffers synthetic 50% and 50% John Deere Hyguard. Recently having a little slip due to beating the trans to death and switched the ratio over to 20% Schaffers and 80% Hydro big change buys a little time till refresh.

Note on seeing it on the stick yes its a pain but I put my dip stick in the vise that left cross hatchs to hold the fluid and can see it much better.

ATF+4 is for caddy's.
 
Will defiantly be trying it!
 
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I run 50/50 mix of cheap ATF and JD Hydrao in my 518. There is no more 5-10 second delay when you first shift from P to D like before. I'll flush after I drive it for a while and refill with hydro fluid.
 
I can't remember for sure, but on my 98' daily driver, commuter, weekend trip, towing, primary mode of transportation, I think I'm somewhere between 50-50 and 40-60 Ford Type F ATF mixed with Oreilly's Green Lid Universal Tractor Fluid.

On my race truck, I add 1-2 qts of type F and fill the rest of the tranny with Hydraulic Tractor Fluid. I've ran John Deere Hy-Gard and Oreilly's UTF, they both felt, shifted, and stalled the same. The UTF sells for $38 on sale per 5 gallons so I choose to run it usually.
 
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Watch some of the cheaper stuff, a local farm supply has there own brand they sell. A buddy of mine says it will ruin the clutches and brakes in allis chalmer tractors. I ran John Deere hytrans for over a year now with no problems. We also run a Missouri supplier MFA and it works good. It's in a dodge a chevy and a buddy ran it in his 8 second vette with a powerglide.
 
I think thier all basicly 20w. The premium tractor supply stuff works really well and the best deal Ive found in a 5 gallon bucket. JD HG just as good but more money.....
 
think it would help an Art Carr built 48re? if so.....what ratio or mixture?
 
The only place I would watch is if you already have the pressures maxed out. Everyone we have changed seemed to firm up the shifts and tighten the convertor slip some.
 
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